I don’t like the way that blade clamp mount is wobbling around, no point in finding that 20 deg angle when the sharpener is incapable of maintaining the angle.
@@ChainsawUsersThat is true, I guess when you consider all of the different sharpening systems available, and their respective price points, the Work Sharp is the “Ryobi” of sharpening systems.
At around $40 Australian it's not too expensive, BUT Australia Post charge nearly half that to ship it within Australia. Jono & Johno might offer a discount to reduce the item cost if you ask nicely.😎
Good video. People think you can hurt/cut yourself easier with a sharp knife, but the opposite is true. A dull knife makes you work harder, that’s when you hurt yourself.
Interesting, a trip to the tool shop,I alwayssharpen by hand ! With the accuracy no matter what knife just use a texter n adjust accordingly, like u have said ! Impressed with the gagged
I always sharpened with oil stones and water stones and had great results. But this sharpener is the next level it takes a little more time if you want scalpel sharp.
Ok I use the same vise as you. I was under the impression you clamped the two studs under your cut you tighten the larger screw first and the smaller screen last as you could get the smaller one still yet tighter . now why I'm not exactly sure the directions say so. I've watched you and its easier for you and I've wondered why I followed the rules it don't work as slick as what you do. I have took a dremel tool.and ground the heads of before that helps some. I'm following our lead from now on.
you mentioned 30 degrees, every 3/8 chain I have bought from Husky and Oregon has been 25 degrees. every 3/8 chain I have bought from Carlton, Holzforma, Archer, Jakmax, Prokut has been 30 degrees. Jakmax (Archer) make a nifty guide called the "Fast Filer" that sets the depth and amount of cut on every tooth the same and also does the rakers. Stihl make a combination file that does both the tooth and the raker on the same action, I have gotten good results from both of these tools.
Stilh goes for 30° we are talking 5° difference. 25° is good. It just most equipment is more leaning towards 30° these days. That's what I am finding. Gauges ect. The Husqvarna gauge is set at 30° that's the dual combination one. That Archer fast filler is also set at 30° angle
@@ChainsawUsers I got given the fast filer by my niece who owns a mower and chainsaw shop in Belmont NSW when it first came out, and she did advise me it was for 30 degree chains only, I have gotten pretty good results from it, far better than the stilh flat raker guide which is almost identical to the one you have that I was using, so I guess because the fast filer fits over just one tooth its progressive? I also have the combination file from Stihl and that works well if you are in a hurry. IMO I have found 25 degree chains from Oregon and Husky work better on ironbark, but the 30 degree chains work better on stringybark and redgum, the three species I mostly cut for firewood. Years ago I bought the Husky all in one sharpening kit, which came with the roller type file guide, the raker depth guage, and a round and flat file and a handle, what really disappointed me about it was there were no instructions on how to use the depth guage, none whatsoever! and it wasnt helpful that the salesperson didnt know how it worked either. Back then there was sfa info on youtube on raker guages, and nothing on Husky's web page, so I had to ask a mate who used to be in the logging industry how it worked.
@davidewhite69 interesting you talk about the stringy bark and Ironbark, because I'm cutting Ironbark I also cut a lot of grey box, and find out that 25° works really well. I guess for most people it's either 25 degrees or 30 degrees that's what I found anyway it's good to get information off other people so thank you very much for your comments
I'll get mine razor sharp but that's about it. Any sharper n the edge will fall over to quickly. I constantly use the steel so I don't have to use the stone that much ! What do u think ?
Never used a gauge, but since I watched u videos from before I actually followed u recommendation and now rakers r all even respectively to the teeth, it works like a charm!
Thanks. Exactly the technical info I was looking for. When the saw bites into the wood and bogs, besides too much raker filed out, and pushing pressure on the chain, is that indicitive that I have done something off on my filing? 461 full chisel stihl chain, 28" bar, red oak. More noticeable in a tree thats been dead standing for a few years and is somewhat dried out.
Yes that's a great tool. Free hand sharpening is not 100% accurate, sure you can get them sharp. But using the Lansky type unit you just don't make mistakes. But it's good to use the smiths tool just to get the angle profile correctly and sharpen and hone using a lansky type sharpening system to get your knives ti the next level
They are much cheaper than a Dremel, and like most tools it might take a while to learn how to get the best result from it. Being usable away from a power point is definitely a plus IMO.
I'm told that mesh size 20 is 1mm holes and depends on where you buy it its available in a sample size for under $6. Larger size e.g. 300mmx300mm around $22 Australian - free shipping on most.
It most likely breaks regulations am sure. Anything you touch on any exhaust will break manufacturers and government regs. But that said it runs better
Good video. Some chains the master links are not available, I'm told that links can be punched without grinding and then reused? These are mini 1/4" chains.
@@ChainsawUsers Thanks, tried and it works. I don't have one of those anvil or chain vices so instead I used my bench vice with the chain held vertically at one end, works but not ideal. Ordered one of those adjustable anvils for next time.
Typical Ozzy test…stick your finger on it..😱 As already mentioned, the cardboard washer didn’t make any difference…it was rotating the alloy washer that did the trick.. It’s also a good idea to check the nut faces are flat and parallel to the wheel..
There’s 1 question I have never heard a good answer to from the unequal length cuts the same guys How do you compensate for the reduced width from the inward taper of the side plate? The shorter cutter has the corner moved inwards. My experience is it moves the problem back a tooth or 2 when they run at dramatically different lengths. The short tooth’s corner will be fine but the following 1 or 2 on that side takes more damage than the rest of the chain. Over a few sharpenings you end up with a bunch of short ones on that side until the problem works its way back around to the start.
Yes the Inward taper as the tooth wears down. My experience using a progressive depth gauge in many cases the chain cuts better faster but that also depends on the wood. It's hard to be 100% accurate with anything chainsaw related. Look at the density of many eucalyptus trees, greybox unseasoned has a density of 1.2 tonne per cubic meter. Redgum has a density of 900kg per cubic meter. With different density wood and short Interlocking fibre results can vary. But generally if the cutters are the almost the same height you will finds that the chip size will be slightly more uniform. This aid cutting performance but by how much ? Bit of a guessing game. Like many things related to chainsaw chain full chisel v semi chisel small gains of 10% maximum is all you can expect . But again wood species variation can change that result.
@@ChainsawUsers I have a bit of spare time this morning so I'll make a short video explaining the question and the problems I have encountered. Hopefully we can find an answer
Tinker if I hit something like a nail n I wreck a couple of teeth I'm not sacrificing my whole chain n cutting them all back just to have them all equal. I usually just touch them up a little but keep them at the same length like the rest of the good teeth! In time they all level out! What u reckon?
Hi not suggesting you do that. What I am saying is try if you can when sharpening to keep them the same if possible. If not no big deal it will still cut good
That was my 2c on it. Is it going to be a better, straighter cut if they are all exactly the same? Yes. Is it going to make such a huge difference that it's worth spending the time and effort to make them exactly the same vs just doing the same number of file strokes on each +/- one depending on the tooth condition or eyeball size? I doubt it. I'm not a professional, but I cut on average 15-20 cords of wood a year, from standing to in the shed, and my saw always cuts straight, even when my top plates are quite different in length.
That ozito file sander is a great idea, takes some laboriously work out of filing the axe to a more required angle ! Those Bunnings axes r cheap but need a lot of work to a required sharp level ! Those Swedish axes r incredible but outrageously expansive. Thanks for sharing that wonderful idea, a benchgrinder just ruins the steel! Have a nice day😊
I just brought a spear and jackson from bunnings $55 maul 2.7kg had a 82° beveled angle 8 mn wide bevel. It 7s great for wood bouncing not splitting. Needs major work so it can perform well
Tinker,sorry to trouble u with an unrelated topic, but since u r knowledgeable with chainsaws I have trouble getting oil to the bar on my 400 stihl ! What bar oil would u recommend ?? Should I enlarged the oil hole in the bar as well ? Would really appreciate if you could give me your opinion on that please! Regards Gunter
@gunterbecker8528 I always measure the bar oil hole to make sure it lines up with saw oil port (hole) some people drill the bar hole slightly bigger. I just use any bar oilit just 10w 30w oil with a tackifier ti make it sticky. If the hole lines up the you will need to look at the pump or oil slinger to make sure it is. Ot worn out. Only other thing is change the oil like filter as this also can get fine particles and block it some what. Hope that helps
U have been absent for a while hope all is well ! Nice to see u back with another video ,always looking forward with more content from u,always interesting and informative !
G'day, and many thanks for all your 'How to' videos. They do help when there is so much rubbish being put out there. Regarding the muffler holes: call me dumb but did you enlarge them all? My local Bunnings didn't know what sieve mesh was. Oh dear!! The side adjuster and dogs do make a difference to a handy sized MS170.
If you put a bar a few inches longer with a full skip chain, then going from 7T to 8T can compensate for fewer cutters by upping your chain speed. Do you agree with that?
Just picked up the 2.5kg Husqvarna Sledge axe today after watching your video. Finally been able to split some of the Aussie hardwood knotted logs that I've had lying around. Thank you for the recommendation! That's a nice over-strike protector.. would be nice to get something similar
Try to fit a overstrike Protector e en if it rubber attached with cable ties. You will thank me. I have both the husqvarna axes. The 2.8kg composite splitting axe
That's exactly how I see it too! Stihl in Germany pays a lot of expensive engineers to ensure the quality is right. Many millions of euros are invested in development and then a West Coast Saws and "Max Airflow" or Egan Performance with a foam filter is supposed to be better? I don't believe that! It looks like they want to make money with it!
Your theory of a sharp splitting maul splitting better makes sense, but after splitting hundreds of cords of all types of firewood, hard and soft, over 51 years, it actually makes no difference in practice. A friend proposed to me that my 8 pound maul needed to be sharpened. We tried splitting several types of hardwood before and after his sharpening, and he agreed - no difference. My maul has been sharpened only once (on that occasion). Enjoy the exercise. One block of elm can give one a good workout (unless it is frozen).
On some hardwood it don't matter how sharp it is, the wood cam be very hard to split but generally a shaper splitting axe or mall will help on many timber species. Any angle or blunt maul will work on soft wood
50:1 will not produce more power, probably opposite - less power... To my knowledge its all to do with emissions. With 50:1 u will have good upped cilinder lubrication, but bottom end will suffer with low lubrication, and excessive wear... Personally will never go over 40:1 mix ratio, regardless how good oil claims to be... I always said its much cheaper extra spoon off oil, then engine rebuild...
Whats the point the Fiskars already has the X7 or 10 or 11 are perfect for kindling. They have no problems for smaller wood and kindling. These things aren't cheap.
Hi there Dude....got a question for you...if the channel of the bar appears to be wider, as opened, not worn, can we help it to get into its original size with a hammer and a piece of hard wood? Using the visel? Thanks for your opinion.
Yes you can hammer it but go slowly. Squeezing it in a vice will also work but take it easy open close open close and use feeler gauges to check gap or something the correct size
This days we have an array of tools to choose from,so much so that it can get confusing for most people what to buy ! Hope people listen to u advice, well explained!
A lot of people try splitting larger rounds in the middle and this can be very hard depending on what wood you are splitting. But it's best work around the edges first.
It took me a few days of practice and 2 chains and 2 files completely worn down till i could get it down. I had to try a few different methods till i found one i could do. It was quite difficult to lwarn vut once you get it its not bad. I can file just as fast as round but i do have to pay more attention and have better lighting. I mainly square file now
