Brendan Barry is a photographer, educator and camera builder whose creative photographic practice combines elements of construction, education, performance and participation. His work is mostly concerned with the transformation of different objects and environments into spaces capable of viewing and capturing a photographic image, using the mechanics of photography as a tool for exploration and collaboration.
You can also buy two uncut lenses for glasses, fi=5cm. Put them in a tube. In the middle you can install iris made of black paper. Inside paint black. Best results as far as image field is concern, and quality.Very cheap.
Great images Brendan… where would someone get photographic paper that size! Is it a special order? Must cost a fortune - or do you coat your own paper? Cheers
My photo paper is Ilford MGRC (Multigrade Resin Coated) and I wonder if I can use as a safelight in the dark room simply a red hiking head lamp, like the author of the video. The package of my photo paper says it requires "safelight 902 (light brown)". What safelights do you use and for what photo papers?
I bet you could just try one sheet and see how it goes, if you haven't already. You can shroud the headlamp with cloth or paper towel to reduce its intensity.
I've used Caffenol off and on for decades when I just want to goof off. Once I just threw everything together without measuring and used tap water that was way off temp. The result was just like when I did it according to the instructions. Caffenol is a serious developer and works better than some commercial developers. But over all I prefer HC-110. obviously a lot of people feel this way because HC-110 is usually out-of-stock.
My personal take on this right or wrong is, it's kind of amazing how we have all these developers today for simple B&W developing with claims of this or that when in essence developer is developer. What really matters is paper/film, exposure, developing and fixer times. Developer either develops or it doesn't. Fixer either fixes or it doesn't.
A little nitpicking, but finding cardboard pieces big enough to cover a window is anything but easy. I tried to find some a couple of years ago (but not for making a camera obscura), and asked in so many stores that couldn't give it to me that I finally gave up.
Dude what's going on with your mixed colour temperatures in your red safe light @ 09.45mins? Respectfully, I'm guessing you were locked down during COVID...
Expose a sheet of luminous plotter film and take a digital photo of it glowing. Easy way to capture an image or check for light leaks in a medium format or large format camera. No chemicals needed. Similar exposure as a UV dry plate and re-usable.
Hey, I just stumbled upon your channel and I am so glad I did. I was thinking of starting to shoot on big direct positive photo papers, but the size I want to capture is larger than the Harman offers. I was wondering if there is an emulsion of some kind, that I can apply on surfaces to take photos on, because I want to control the parts I want to get exposed. Thanks for the great content. I appreciate it.
How awesome! Thanks for doing this video. Your final photo looks like it needs that girl from the movie "The Ring" standing in the window across the street!
@@SourojitBh yes it will work just fine . A quick google search says if you’re developing Color you’re gonna end up with sepia tone “ (Caffenol developer is restricted to black & white film and while you could use it to develop color film, know that you will end up with sepia tone negatives.) “
From the fact that she photographs with her phone in the darkroom you can see the negro girl understood nothing. I highly doubt she had her phone wrapped in red foil.
Thanks! Used your method to develop the first photos from my pinhole camera! I took the paper out of the salt water fixer after an hour and scanned them, then put it back in for 24hours.When I took them out and rinsed them, I noticed that they developed some pink blotches within an hour of so of hanging out to dry. Any idea what may have caused it, and how to avoid it? (All is not lost though - I did scan the photos first, and they came out great!)
I’ve used this method twice now using phot paper from my pinhole camera and the first photo was way over exposed and the second photos where way under exposed. I’m trying it again right now. Any idea what’s going on?
Cool idea and images, but there was a ton of that stuff being done in the late 60's and 70's. I was going through an MFA program in the erly 70's and was into all of it. Later, I taught it to thousands of students. I even turned our darkroom into a huge camera obscura. So, the way I look at it now is, it was fun, it was cool, it captured their imaginations, it kept them interested and motivated, but long term the art world rejected it, so I'm glad I didn't go down that road with my personal work.
It's a normal paper or a sensitive paper , where I live I can't get this kind of paper 😞and on internet is too expensive that I couldn't afford it , how could replace the sensitive paper?
