My 2009 Mazda 5 is still going strong at 230k miles and counting. Original owner. All maintenance and repairs done by myself. It's been a great car. I'm going to see how many miles I can get out of it!
Great video, I just bought a mazda5 and have been doing so much work to itz. Literally everything you said except change the fluids, I’m a little worried I might ruin the transmission. The car has 280000km and I don’t know if it was maintained previously. Do you think it would be wise to change the trans fluid or just leave it. When I checked it, it was black.
This can be a very controversial topic! Unless the transmission is slipping, I would go ahead and change the fluid and filter. The Mazda 5 transmission is generally very reliable except for the TCM (Transmission Control Module) which tends to fail around 150-200k miles. TCM failure is not related to the fluid however.
I’ve been in the same boat as you before, i decided to go ahead and do a drain and fill of the transmission fluid on my old sonata which had about 265k kilometres on it and it worked great, for about 2 weeks, then the trans starting slipping severely and i ended up just getting a new car.Prior to changing the fluid the car worked fine aside from an occasional harsh shift when accelerating from a dead stop on a hill, which wasn’t even overly harsh if im being honest, just didn’t feel as smooth as i’d like. This is honestly one of the most polarizing subjects when it comes to automotive mechanics. I’d advise you to examine the fluid, color, does it look shiny or extremely dark, smell it as well to see if it smells burnt. If it does id be weary of changing it and if you have any drive ability issues already, with that kind of mileage just drive it until it wont go anymore, save yourself the time and money.
Literallt been sitting here trying to replicate this and the three bolts on the back absolutely REFUSE to come off right now. I keep having an issue where my sockets won’t stay on the bolt they just pop right off the second I put any serious pressure
Dude! Thank you for this. Do you need to torque those three bolts going into the hub or just tighten as much as possible with breaker bar? Also, what grease did you use?
Don't know what the torque is on them, just made sure they got some thread locker and were tight. Not sure what grease was used, it wasn't anything special
@@BloodRedCypher Just one more question. I got the rear of my ND on stands. There is no play in the wheels to indicate bad bearing. But when I yank on the passenger CV Axle, in and out, it clunks slightly inside the hub and moves slightly. Doesn't do this on the driver side. It's an open diff if that matters. If I spin either rear wheel, the entire diff moves side to side slightly as the wheel spins, not sure if normal. Do you think I need to replace the Axle and not the bearing? Any thoughts on this?
You could have a broken shear pin on the drive shaft beside the gears or a keyway that has broken or fallen out ! If you have the machine running with the bottom cover off and you lift the wheels off the floor and see what is happening ! Sometimes the shear pin or bolt is broken and it is still stuck in position so it looks like it is fine. You could also turn the shaft by hand with the wheels off the ground to see what is going on ! When you are done always use carb cleaner or varsol to wipe off any oil or excess grease on any belts or pulleys and the rubber drive wheel and then sand the drive plate ( The round metal plate ) And wipe it clean as well ! Everyone seems to think that all snowblowers have a transmission ( A few of them do and a most of them were made in China and I would not buy one of those ever because it will cost more than the machine is worth new if you are paying someone to do the job ) but most just have a simple system that drives forward in 5 or 6 gears and backwards in one or sometimes two gears ! Forward is on one side of the circle shaped disc and reverse is on the other side of centre . If you are going forward in reverse or not moving at all in some gears it could be because the adjustment is wrong meaning the rod is too long or too short ! At the top of the machine under the gear shift tou will see a removable clip that you can remove and then turn it clockwise or counterclockwise usually about one or two turns and then try it ! The only other problem you could have is maybe you only had one wheel with a shear pin and the other was free wheeling and the other wheel has a broken shear pin and the pin might have fallen out ! I work on them all the time and once you know what does what it is easy to figure it out !
Before putting your blower in the vertical position, take a piece of plastic bag (or zip lock bag) and put it under the gas cap and screw the cap over the plastic. The gas cap has a vent in it and if your gas tank is over half full, it will still drip even if it's screwed on tight. The plastic bag will seal it completely. Before putting the cover back on, wipe that metal drive plate down with alcohol or brake cleaner to get any grease or lube that may have got on it while you were working on it.
Great. Many thanks. Cleaned pipes and jets on bonnet. Didn't work. Good to know that there are 2 pumps for front and rear. I'll need to check /replace one for front. Helpful.
@@BloodRedCypher Depends where you are at. Ontario uses a ton of salt all winter, but here in Saskatchewan we typically get too cold for it to work so don't use as much of it and use a lot of sand instead. We still have salt in some of the sand though so we have to be careful to wash cars after they laid down a lot. I've heard many times from people in the US rust belt and Ontario that visit here that we have a lot of older good condition daily drivers on our roads compared to those areas. 20+ year old daily driver cars without significant rust is common.
Very useful video, thank-you. My 2016 ND is in need of new bearing at 99,500 miles. Winter isn't the best time, unheated New Hampshire winter and all, but these things seldom happen at the best times. I'm subscribing.
Hey man I just wanted to say I am in dire straits with the rear drivers side bearing on my 2017 Club and I was desperate for information on how to do this repair and this video has saved my ass. There is so little information online for this replacement and this has been a huge help, thank you! You have earned my subscription
Boy I looked all over the web for a video on this and couldn't find it! So I figured it out and had to share the findings because the factory manual instructions are RIDICULOUS, they tell you to take apart the entire rear suspension
