I had been looking for this information for days, friend... I bought a 2002 accord and I was nervous driving without gas to do this test. Last night I went to change the dashboard light bulbs with LEDs and now it no longer works well... I realized that the one in gasoline does turn on, now I have to test in real time when the gasoline goes down... thank you very much friend for this video, blessings.
Nice video! Very good install on that L-connection behind the dryer. As a further optimization, I think all the joints on that twist connector should be taped. Being able to twist - I think makes them inherently not-airtight.
Long shot on the reply, but im doing this excat thing and 2/3 both has oil in them also, my car wont start it will try but wont. will flooded spark plugs to this?
@@TOM2RN awesome thanks for the fast reply, I had a vvt code also ,but now im just wondering if the code was because of leaking gaskets. I took out the vvt looks like brand new on the inside, of corase the top is all oil and grime covered.
@@TOM2RN got a new question, so i had the code for a vvt issue I took it out and tested it with clips connecting it to ground then adding positive to it. it ether dident click or clicked super rapidly, Im thinken it broke. Possibly my main issue, but needed to fix gaskest anyways XD. got Thoughts on this? when i first dug in to it my car would try to turn over but wouldent turn in. Im a bit out of my depth here... Tryen to avoid the mechanic bills.
Good video, aside from the occasional dizzying camera work.😉 One thing that was unclear to me was if you needed to remove the bolt that attaches to the timing chain cover. From what I could make of it, it would appear not...am I wrong?
@@TOM2RN THANK YOU very much for responding, and yes, after further investigation I can confirm this. Now I've come to understand that there is a 'second' solenoid that apparently should be replaced simultaneously, according to some folks. It's some kind of screen (filter), but I'm having a difficult time locating it. QUESTION: Aside from the leak, did a CEL come on in your son's car? When that solenoid is about to fail, it apparently triggers the CEL. I just bought a 2009 Accord that has some caked oil accumulation on top of that connector, but the previous owner claims it was from a bad valve cover gasket that he had replaced. Now I'm not so sure.
Lots of good info here. I got the aluminum inserts and got it all together, but now the cable's don't function; like, they're super tight. I've had the entire locking system apart several times and can't figure out why, and the doors don't latch closed. Any suggestions?
Try hooking the end at the locking mechanism first. Leave the door half disconnected. Pull on the door handle end and see if it unlocks. Don’t close the door. If I’m not mistaken, the is a slight variation in how to of the inserts appear as compared to the other two.
I figured it out. The new Al inserts I have have a slot that was cut too small; so, the cable gets bound up and restricts movement. I have brought this to the attention of the ebay seller and already got a refund. What I can do to fix the inserts is to drill or grind them out on the latch mount end. I'll make a video.
You can use a tool to depress the lifters and change shims without removing the cams. I've never had to readjust the valves on my 2001 Camry but I did change shims on my 1979 Suzuki GS1000.
Thanks for the video! I have a 2013 sorento LX (2.4L GDI) with nearly 200k on it, so I think I'm going to replace both the tensioner and idler/accessory pulleys. I've already done the belt before and it's definitely easier to remove the passenger tire and splash guards and go from underneath. Also I think I have the spring tensioner as opposed to your hydraulic (gas?) tensioner. You might have the V6 model (EX trim) so I feel like it would help some people to mention that.
I agree with the comments below. Thanks for all the detail. It really helps. If you really think about it, we spend a lot of time on the little things like releasing connector clips, but if someone provides those details then the job can move along faster.
It's rare to find longer videos like this where the viewer feels like they are hanging out and getting the entire process on film. This type of full detail, minimal editing is extremely helpful to viewers like myself that want to learn and do the work themselves, but need as much information as possible. The big and little details matter. Thank you for taking the time to make such a wonderful detailed video.
Go to the play bar on the video. You can see at around 7:15 (which is the end of the video) is the most replayed because people want to know how to if he said how to fix it……..Not. I read online that you can take the positive cable off of the battery for 30 seconds and it will reset it.
My TPMS light came on, apparently because I added just a little more air than needed to two of the tires. It was only 1 psi over, but the TPMS on my 2008 CRV didn't seem to like that too much. It's always a good idea to check the spare and put air in if it's not at least close to what the placard in the doorway next to the driver seat says, though, since you won't be able to inflate it unless you keep a 12-volt tire pump or manual one in the car. I can't even imagine how long it'd take to pump up a car tire manually, though LOL
Mine is popping in sharp turns ! And I thought it had clutch packs slipping. ! But guess not! Mine is the 99 CLT with 4.0 as well ??? In less I missed something
The driver’s side gasket usually starts to leak first on the 3.0 liter engine. I replaced the passenger side gasket a couple years and is easier since it’s not necessary to remove the plenum.
I know this is an old video, but just a warning about CFL's--the flash feature *will* ruin the bulbs (the arc is struck by blasting a 600V charge across the cathodes, which really eats them away).
Thank you SO much for taking the time to film this specific video with good videography! Seeing the little stuff you did was super helpful in understanding what to do with the clip ins. Much good energy and karma being sent through the internet to you sir!
the dielectric just stops water and air getting to the contacts, but is not conductive, so it doesn't short anything. contact cleaner or even wd-40 could be used on the pins (NOT into the sockets on the wire harness, where there may be voltage unless you've disconnected the battery), then carefully clean the pins with toothbrush or wire brush or steel wool; plug and unplug several times to get a good connection, and see if that gets things going. (at this point, you could put on the dielectric before plugging it in for the final time) If you have to go the next step and remove the fuel pump and sending unit (sensor) and do further testing and/or replacement, I think that this link is a good video for that -- ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4Xxyl0SHfD8.html
I have a Mitey VAC. Disconnected both ends and plugged one with a cap or plug. Connected to the other end and pumped. If it doesn’t hold vacuum, it’s a problem.
Before inserting piston slide boot over it almost to bottom of piston. Holding piston over caliper bore, insert boot bottom fully into its groove all around. Then push and turn piston into cylinder. Put lots of special grease inside boot before starting to repel water and have caliper last longer.
Your video was just what I needed to get the job done. I found the cable sheath end set of 4 on Amazon for $10. I got lucky and only had to repair the handle cables. Thank you!
You don't get enough love in this video 💯💯💯 the amount of work you put in to entertain, really show and explain the where and why is immaculate! Thank you!!
