Many thanks!

Thanks for the comments. However, while I much appreciate them, I would caution you not to put too much reliance on my adaptation of Edgar Westbury's drawings. Strongly recommend you track down the source document and base your fabrication on your own interpretation of the relevant drawings. Bear in mind that building a digital model allows one to 'cheat' a bit, if necessary. For example, if you closely examine my animation of the parallel mechanism, you can detect some erratic motion at the lower pivot pins that in the real world would likely cause the mechanism to sieze. (In fact, when I connected the mechanism as originally drawn, the model would not animate!) There are also other instances where components would not align or fit properly as drawn. Thus one would not be able to assemble them if they were actually fabricated as opposed to being digital depictions. And while I can create digital work-arounds that can override real-world restrictions and allow the engine to appear to operate normally, I suspect you would have a far more difficult time doing so in steel or brass. Hence my recommendation to do your due diligence, should it be that my drawings were at fault. Of course, if my drwaings are a faithfull copy of the original, then one is left with the unsettling conclusion that any physical rendition will also face the same assembly issues that I encountered in my digital rendition! Regardless, a good challenge and best of luck should you decide to tackle it.

The basic starting settings were based on recommendations I found online for similar printers and these seem to work well enough. As I've progressed, I adjust the settings depending on the model I'm printing. As I tend to go for a good appearance, I usually set the 'Layer Height' at 0.12 (using the rule-of-thumb of multiples of the nozzle diameter, which for now is 0.04mm) and accept the resulting increased print time. Other settings (wall, top, infill, etc) I tend to wing it as I'm usually not printing anything too demanding. So far, I've only had two failed prints out of over a 100 to date.

I use this machine for my etsy store

Thanks for the comments. I hope to be able to animate a 3D printed model with compressed air with a different design, This model had a separate valve assembly which mean that there were many more places where air could leak out so unlikely that it could ever be made air tight. However, I whished to see it operating similar to the digital (virtual) version and thus I designed the fitment for the Lego 'M' motor. (Google search for more info on that motor.)

Part of the allure of steam engines is that you can see many of the moving parts. This model certainly had its share.

So far, the only real mod I've done is to remote the micro-SD slot to a standard SD slot. However, unless I encounter a problem, won't rush into anything. I do have the 'filament out' sensor, but so far, haven't seen a need to install it. Mind you, haven't run a 20+ hour print, so may change my mind if and when I do.

Thanks for the kind words. I started from zero but there are lots of instructional videos that were a great help in learning the basics, From there it is a lot of trial and error but the effort is worth it. Recently acquired a 3D printer and will shortly post a video of my first efforts at making a physical model from the digital version, (Though not this model - a bit challenging for my initial eperiment!)

You can make lots of errors in the virtual world and the animation will still function, What I meant in my remarks was that I did not accurately replicate the steam hole locations when I drew the model. Thus if I were to 3D print the faceplate as I drew it and without alterations, it would not work. To rectify that, I would have to do as you oviously did: re-draw the component and place the holes in the correct locations.

Thanks. Much appreciated.

Thanks for the comments. Yes, I have no hesitation recommending this printer. As I indicated, I am new to the hobby and thus have nothing to compare to but this printer exceeded my expectations. I have used the auto-level feature once during the initial set-up and have yet to have a print fail because of adhesion - rock solid in my experience. Problem-free thus far; about 50 hours of printing.

Curious and I want to ask the whole internet how they fixed the layer line issues. I have 4 Kobra neos and all of them print fast and reliably, bed leaving is meh on a couple, but the layer lines are terrible compared to ender 3 and aquila and I'm not sure why

What are your cura settings?

@@Badg0r so I switched to an ender 3 profile and fixed it to a large degree but it's still not perfect. Basically just plain ender 3 with 2mm retractions

@@maximuschapman7760 I've read that a direct drive needs 1 retraction and that it needs the hotend to be calibrated too. Another thing I read is to disable the function to continue printing after a power loss to get less blobs. It seems to have something to do with writing data to the SD cards. A lot of printers have that issue. Can you try this out? My printer is on its way.

Thanks for the comments. Glad you liked it.

Hello. Hope you liked the video. If you want any deatils on how to build a model like this, check out my blog: tfl-modelbluenose.blogspot.com/2011/03/in-beginning.html

Thanks for the thumbs-up!

Thanks for the comments, Don. I normally pay attention to the little extra details but 'slipped a cog; this time around. Have added a short video with the fixes (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qk0Cl39rbMc.html). Also note that the 3D environment reflects the latest version, which incorporates the update. As for CNC, I'm still musing over getting a 3D printer and seeing if this model can be replicated in the real world. At about eight inches tall, might be a good size for a first effort. If I give it a try, will post results.

@@TFL1945 A metal 3d printer......

That is correct. But also note that the figure 44 is a bit of an approximation as not all elements of the original retail model were to the same scale, As I described in my blog, I calculated an average based on measurements of various components compared to the measurements of corresponding item on the full-size vessel (as detailed in Jenson's book).

@@TFL1945 yes sir thank you..

@@TFL1945 why did you choose 1:44?

@@jgeldart7393 As I mention above, I was starting with an existing kit so really had no choice in the matter. The only thing I could do was calculate what the scale of the model actually was, as there was no indication of the scale on the box or instructions. (It was a very basic model to sart with!) My blog of the build has the details of how I calculated it - this link will take you to the post: tfl-modelbluenose.blogspot.com/2011/03/

Thanks for the comment. Glad you appreciated it.

Thanks for the kind comment. Admittedly done by a novice but I was happy with the results. Have yet to tackle anything similar; now distracted by 3D modelling and perhaps 3D printing eventually.

it is bluenose. Bluenose two has two engines and two propellers

Understand that there may have been some confusion, given that the source book by Jenson documents the replica version built for the Oland family, ie, the Bluenose II. However, the kit I was working with was of the original Bluenose and that is how I eventually configured the model.

You can visit the real one here: bluenose.novascotia.ca/virtual-tour You can also visit his blog noted in his intro text : tfl-modelbluenose.blogspot.com

As I mention somewhere in the blog, I had originally intended to configure the model as the Bluenose II. as that is the version that Jenson documents in his book. However, the rudimentary model that I had purchased was of the original Bluenose so I eventually followed the path of least resistance. Thus there is no build documentation for a Bluenose II version.

Thanks for the comments. Built by a novice but hopefully you found something of value amongst my various efforts.

@@TFL1945 Sure thing! I've found a lot. Thanks!

Good luck with your build.

Thanks.

Not a lot of roads to choose from. Pretty much just went around the perimeter. Doubt there will be another opportunity to add that detail.

Thanks. (Negligent in looking at viewer comments - sorry!)

makes you think about what?

The fact that many consider Canada as "north" when it's southern parts are actually level with Southern Europe and the Mediterranean.

EASYTIGER10 yeah, many canadians consider them "north" which we are.. You should see the snow in my yard.. How many times have the so called southerners shovel off their roof? Last but not least.. And my favorite part... How many pelee folks own a snowblower...i only know of 3.. Lol.. Canada IS north, just dips nice enough in the 42nd parallel. Love it :)

Assembly instructions in the box. As for lubricant, runs well without any; in fact, oil would probably slow it down or even prevent it running if it got near the cylinders.