Hello and Welcome to Growing The Home Garden. Way back in 2007 our family bought our first home and began the process of transforming a barren landscape into our home garden. I started off by detailing my experiences on my blog which you can find at GrowingTheHomeGarden.com. This RU-vid channel is a continuation of that process, what I've learned to do since being here, and sharing that process over the years. The videos are about plant propagation, vegetable gardening, plants, and garden projects. Growing The Home Garden is located in the Middle Tennessee area south of Nashville in zone 7 (Specifically between Spring Hill and Columbia, Tennessee). So if you have an interest in gardening and learning how to propagate plants please consider subscribing to the channel. Thanks for watching!
Thank you .Am redoing a section of the backyard using a raised L shape planting bed that will fit alongside the L shape trellis between the star Jasmine and adding this type of honeysuckle between the jasmine should give it a nice burst of color.Plus it won’t be invasive and easy to care for based on the number (1 or 2 or 3). Positive adventurers.
Another method taught via my grandfather: Tying a rag around a stick, a little charcoal lighter fluid and a match. This small flame will quickly and completely destroy the web and worms, with very minimal damage to the tree limb.
They only leech nitrogen off the top layer of soil but I do like letting them sit for a few months to break down further before using. Also getting them with green leaves on them is way better for soil nutrition.
This was very informative thank you for sharing. Here I am pulling all this clover out of my yard and just disposing of it🤦🏼♀️ I will be looking into seeing if I can get a hold of willows in my area. Thanks again.
It's so good that you explained the difference that we can see in leaves! I would like a four feet sage and couldn't figure out which type to get. Last time, I bought three pots, but they basically had no info, even the name was missing. They had a decent price, and I would've bought more since I wanted to fill in a big area, but I held off because I would like tall ones. I'm so curious now that I am going to check on it in the dark.
With my patty pan I planted 2, I feed plant what came with hydroponics bay and a high nitrogen feed at first and even use a cupful of fish fertilizer.tridents pride. I picked off the first flowers until plant got established and kept water full. Then I switched to a flower food by root farm. Also put some calcium in the water. I had calcium steaks I mashed up and put I teaspoon in bag and hung it on inside of reservoir. I did this once. They are heavy feeders so I feed at least every 2 weeks. Hope this helps
I have lots of play sand, I was asking that very question regarding to play sand, propagation, thank you so much I subscribe to your channel, please keep it’s coming ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
You never said how many squash you will get per plant, I would like to know. I want to grow Kabocha squash. Anything different about those? Thanks, BOP
There shouldn't be much different with Kabocha squash. You can get quite a few seeds from each mature squash. I never counted seeds but I think you can expect 20-30 seeds if not more per fruit. As for how many per plant that will depend on how productive your plants are so it's hard to say.
@@icanyoucantwo2024 it depends on where on my property but I do have clay soil. My Russian sage plants though are planted in good soil that we had to bring in to raise the grade around our house. I have grown Russian sage though in clay soil at our previous and it was successful.
Good tips about using grass. I wanted confirmation that using grass was safe for a raised bed. I need about 35 cu. ft. to completely fill 2 of 6x3x1 and a 12x2x1.5 raised beds. To fill out my beds completely without accounting for inevitable waste and settling, I need about 35 cu. ft. I really didn't comprehend both what that looked like in fill material and what it would cost (even going with the really cheap 40lb bag of inert hole filler soil(lawn dirt) and amending in composts and fertilizers). Between straw, fallen limbs (that I let dry) and used soil, I was able to get about 10-12 cu. ft. filled between all 3 beds. I estimate I need 25 cu. ft. of fill, so a grass layer might be just what I need to take up some space in the beds and save me some money. I'll just put on the grass layer and let it sit for a week then fill to the top of the raised beds.
If you have a supply of wood chips too try to alternate the wood chips and grass clippings. That should help balance the nitrogen and carbon ratios. Some of these raised beds are quite expensive to fill if you have to buy soil. The taller they are the better they are for your back but you have to fill them somehow!
@@Growingthehomegarden Thanks for the advice. instantly subbed because of the sound advice and because I like your videos. I'm gonna mow my back 0.06 acre yard (rough satellite estimate subtracting my deck and shed) tomorrow afternoon after work and see how much grass I get then fill it and go from there. I don't intend to do more than 2 or so inches in the 2 of grass in the short 1ft beds on top of the inert topsoil mixed with spent soil I already out in. In the 1.5ft bed, I may go 3+ inches of grass, it just depends how much medium I already have in there (haven't measured depth yet). I do plan on topping off the last few inches with a mix of 75% bagged compost and 25% planting soil (not potting mix specifically, and not filler soil/dirt. I have to see what the stores have on sale).
@@matthewjbauer1990 you'll find that grass will quickly break down. I like your idea of the good stuff at the top. The rest is essentially compostable fill material that will help your bed in the future!
So in my area (north GA) these seeds ripen around September 1. This year I saved a bunch of them and have already planted a number of them in pots. One has already sprouted!!! Will this seedling survive outdoors through the winter? We should have several weeks before the first freeze or frost but I don't know if this fragile little plant can survive the cold.
Yes they are but squirrels seem to be able to eat them just fine. I think there are methods that can be used to boil out the tannic acid and make them edible. Similar to acorns. I've never tried it so I can't vouch for it.
It is a good idea to wash them but I don't usually. I dry them just long enough that they aren't all wet outside then they can be stored in a paper envelope.
@@annapendrak1361 I do leave it outside but depending on how cold you are you nay want to give it some protection with a row cover or cold frame. You still want it to go dormant but don't want them to get too cold.
I wrote a post on my website for that several years ago. The process isn't hard. Soak the seeds, remove the waxy coating, cold stratification then they should germinate in Spring. Dogwood seeds are good candidates for winter sowing as well. Here's a link to more info growingthehomegarden.com/dogwood-seeds-cornus-florida/
Hi ive taken cuttings now september, im in zone 9a uk. But i dont have what you potted your cuttings in, can compost with perlite or horticultural grit be used? Thank you. Love your video really easy to follow your instructions 😊
I don't think water will work. They seem to take a long time and would probably rot eventually if just in water. You could try soil but I like using mediums that are inert. Meaning they are generally free of disease vectors. Sand, peat, vermiculite, perlite all can be used well. Lately I've been using a layer of fine bark chips covered with sand which seems to be effective.
You give it a gentle pull and if there is resistance it may have rooted. Often I'll use pots with drainage holes and wait for roots to start to show in the holes before transplanting.
I've used it to propagate a lot of plants. It drains well and is inert. It's also easy to sterilize later with boiling water. I can't say it can be used for every plant but it works well for a lot of plants.
A sheltered location near a house is good usually. It gets a little residual warmth from the structure. Also try to protect them from rodents. I've had more than a few things messed up by squirrels and chipmunks over the years.
It is resistant to deer but like anything deer might sample it first before they decide if they like it ot not. Juniper grows wild in our area and it is not a preferred food for deer when other plants are around.
I have done this with the potassium and the phosphorus. They still refuse to open. Can I force them open? I'm doing everything right. Three plants two fruit. I normally have 20. Same with the zucchini no weeds. It's been the second hottest summer ever. I kept them partially shaded with shade cloth from 12-4 daily. I'm disappointed
I moved into a new house about 10 years ago and it already has some very old and diseased viburnum. They never have done very well. I've cut them back once and they grew out a bit and bloomed a bit more. But I don't know much about bringing them back to full health. And there is no one within 100 miles who know anything about how to help them.
You should be able to but make sure to give them plenty of light in the winter if you have them actively growing indoors. Alternatively you could take hardwood cuttings and leave them outdoors to root over the winter.
I appreciate you taking the time to do these propagation videos. You have a calm manner and I can tell you are a plant lover and your videos are great for some casual viewing. However, for someone really interested in propagating plants, your videos are not helpful. How do we know that your method worked? Why no follow up videos? I don’t mean to offend, I really don’t. I live in the same area as you so whatever methods work for you will probably work for me. I would just love to be able to learn more from you.
No offense taken. :) I actually have done a number of follow up videos for many of the videos. Not for everything. I'm a father of 5 and work full time so I do videos when I can and not everything gets videoed. For anything I haven't videoed I probably have documented on my website GrowingTheHomeGarden.com. There are 1000+ posts there since 2007 that have documented everything I've done here on the RU-vid channel. In fact most of what I do here I have already done before and it can be found by searching my website. In this video I have other videos already of the boxwoods, viburnums, and camellia. The only one not videoed previously with results on the channel is the Yew but you can find a post on that right here: growingthehomegarden.com/yew-propagation-taxus-x-media/
RU-vid plays tricks on me and shows me this video onky now. Months too late 😭 I started growing my own hostats last year. Cross- pollinated, harvested and germinated this past spring. I managed to get a couple of sports so this might get intresting in the future. Great video!
I'm in the beginning of the video and noticed that you put the salvia cutting into a flat of some sort of medium. Can you tell me what medium it is? And if I don't have any of that kind, is there another alternative you can suggest that would work to add the cuttings to? If you answer my question before I finish the video then my apologies. I get ahead of myself.
I often will use sand for cuttings. Play sand, paver sand, builder sand all seem to work well. I will also use a combo of peat/sand. Sometimes with the peat on the bottom and a covering of sand. I've used fine bark shavings as well. Vermiculite and peat is a common combo too. So there are quite a few options. Here's a video on the sand option and why I like using it. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wxFJDWdbPvs.html
