I had a low water pressure problem coming out of the valve so I watched your video. I followed it EXCEPT..I took out the inner cartridge, tossed it, and it worked like a champ! Great pressure again!
Taking out the spool eliminates the pressure balance function and lets the water mix at full pressure at the input ports. Temperature control will be poor. It's better to clean the rust and scale out of the valve and spool so they move freely.
BEWARE - The New Moen 1222 cartridges are using a mostly plastic inside, it has the brass stem as metal now that screws to the handle but the rest of the inside is now made of plastic with only the cams being still made of metal. So Metal glued to Plastic Glued to Metal glued to a plastic end. This new re-design is deliberate so that the plastic breaks and snaps when the 1222 cartridge gets a bit older and stiff. Plastic continually off-gases over its life getting more and more brittle with age. This is a deliberate attempt by Moen to force a huge number of expensive ~$60 new cartridge replacement sales. If you have a choice today never buy Moen. If a builder installs nothing but Moen because they got a kickback sweet deal from Moen for creating a huge inventory of houses with very expensive plastic parts ready to break and create a lucrative market for Moen stay away from all those houses and buy some other builder's house.
@@connielingus6969 moen didn’t replace any of my cartridges. Mine I had to replace. And they are all plastic garbage today. I’m going to get rid of all the moen and never go back.
I knew it, I'll try opening the stem inside, I tried but wasn't sure if it was welded so I didn't. Im having trouble with ours. It's giving to warm water that it's uncomfortable to rinse.
I watched this video several times over the years and I can't figure out why Moen doesn't make a PosiTemp valve for their 1225 series. I'ld upgrade un a heartbeat. And as everybody said, great video, thank you!
They do, but it's not a new cartridge cause there isn't enough room in a 1225 for a balancing spool. The Moentrol valves like the 3520 use the 1225 with an external Moen 1423 balancing spool in the body.
Very interesting...I actually just replaced my cartridge today $53 from Home Depot, and it works perfectly, but I think I'll take the old one apart and clean it up to keep as a spare next time. I certainly didn't know you could do this, so thanks for sharing..
So I bought a new 1222 and the pressure is a lot weaker. Now I don't have a leak and turning it on and off is a breeze BUT my pressure is now down. How do you fix this? Can I widen any of these holes? This is so annoying as getting the old one out was a bear. And no there was no debris left on the inside I throughly checked. It's the valve. This is utterly annoying
Thanks but I'm going back to Moen 1222HD Commercial Heavy-Duty Brass Shell PosiTemp One-Handle This plastic is junk and needs to be serviced every 6 months. I got 20 years on solid brass. Good video but tell them to buy brass.
First of all, only use genuine Moen parts. They have a lifetime warranty and are free. As for that puller, it is actually designed for pulling the older 1200 or 1225 type cartridges where the nut can push against the valve body without the "ears" of the 1222 cartridge being in the way.
I have a situation where the handle easily turns on cold water fine but shuts off the water entirely at a point where hot water should come on. We have hard well water here in Florida and this issue started after the water not being used for 3 months while the house was left vacant. Is this a valve issue that can be repaired following the instructions here?
So, I just went thru this process. 1) the valve is a 1222 not a 122. 2) if the valve doesn't work with hot water then trying to extract the original valve without dame is nearly impossible.
Friday got a Moen replaced After I installed it, the cold water doesn't run, just a trickle & when I put it in the OFF position it doesn't shut off water. The old one has a rubber cover on the bottom, replacement doesn't. Please advise. Thank you for the good video
Sorry can't help you, I would have to see it to analyze, be sure no rubber parts have "rolled over" . You will know when you try and remove the cartridge, it will be difficult to pull out of the housing/manifold. Best of Luck
Thank you Fred! I took out the valve cartridge, and it looked really bad. I took it all apart, cleaned it all up (steel wool, simple green + toothbrush), lightly silicone greased 'er up, and that inner metal tube now knocks back and forth beautifully! That knocking sound when shaking is the sound of $50!!! Excellent! I suspect in a few years I'll have to dismantle and clean again, but I expect this exercise can happen over and over again. New valve? FORGET IT! Do it Fred's way!!!
Thanks for this video. In reassembling it, I don't see how the inner metal sleeve should be positioned. Since it has holes, it seems like how it's oriented matters. Yours jiggles when replaced which suggests it could also rotate, mine not so much but wouldn't the orientation of the orifices make a difference to how it works?
Thanks bro, I bought the kits to repair them but wasn't sure of the procedure as the instructions were garbage, answered all my Q's, both of my shower valves, cartridges are now good as new and work great, my symptoms for mine were even after the valves were turned off the would not stop seeping water, constantly dripping which it wasn't bad, but all those drips over a year add up to a lot of water
Thanks Fred. It was quite a useful video. I had one of the inner o rings slightly shaved while removing the inner valve mechanism. Is it OK to use this or will this mix the cold hot water inside?
Thank you very much! I thought of soaking the whole valve in CLR or vinegar overnight but your method worked! The plastic sleeve was stuck so I used a 17 mm socket under the base of the sleeve and gently tapped the brass stem down so that the steel cylinder would go down into the socket until the cylinder was dislodged from the plastic sleeve. I also added a few drops of oil which helped to lubricate the cylinder and the sleeve. A box cutter knife helps to gently scrape off calcium crust on the steel cylinder.
Thanks for positing this. Will save me $ - every 6 mos or so, mine stops functioning - where I only get cold water unless i throttle the handle back and forth like an idiot until the inner part lines up just right. Probably need a water softner or some other solution to the real root cause, but for no, I can live with a 30 min clean/replace solution each 6 mos.
I’ve replaced a couple of these Moen 1222 valves because of very low flow on the hot side. What I observed is that even with a new 1222 the flow rate on the hot side remains poor. I’ve been told that this flaw is actually a design feature. There appears to be no aftermarket solution available. The only answer will be to tear into the wall and replace the entire assembly. I am definitely not a fan of Moen products.
I replaced one after water leak. Didn't recall before replacing but with the new one I'm not getting any cold water. Cold is actually warm water and hot is very hot.
You must have put it in with a different orientation than how it came out . I've done that too/ luckily this video talks about that very thing! You can fix it!
i have the exact same issue, the cold is little warm and hot is hot. I’ve tried all the position. The only way it works on hot and cold nicely is installing it reverse so that it shuts off the water counter clockwise
