Thank you. I wish I found this earlier. The RU-vid search sucks! I was searching for this two days ago. I had to run trial and error on my own. Now today, this video is in my news feed 😖.
Ok I was just looking to see what people thought of these and wow dude you never hit a anvil with a hammer like that. you’ll put dents in any anvil doing that.
Yeah your video clinched it for me. I was looking at using barn door track/trolley system for mine but I just wasn't sure it would work the way I needed. So if copying your design is the purest form of flattery then you should be very flattered cause I'm going to copy what you have done right down to the last nut and bolt. Thanks man this is exactly what I need.
Thank you! I have been contemplating this problem for awhile. This is straight forward and simple solution. You would think that harbor freight would sell a trolley that holds their overhead winch to the I beam. I bought all these parts and had no idea how to put it together so that it would work. Thanks again.
Small wonder it dented, you hit cast iron barefaced with cold steel. In the spirit of a little fairness, I happen to own one of these myself, and a little nugget of wisdom from a visiting smith has served me in good stead with it. Get the workpiece good and hot and keep it that way, strike the work true, don't be a gorilla with your blows.
I know its been 2 years since you posted this but this is great thank you! Also how far did you come in on the angle and drill the 1 1/8" hole and the other holes on the bottom?
You are hitting a cold anvil. Cast iron will disform when hit cold. Heat up your stock and try it again. You won't see that level of damage when you work hot material properly.
I really wanted one too, very disappointed. was thinking of doing another video as so many negatives say you can't hammer on a Anvil because what? they're delicate? it's an Anvil! I have a steel welding table I can hammer on all day and not leave a scratch. IMHO
Perfect thank you I had planned on cutting the trolley in half then welding in a piece of 1/4 x 4” flat stock to make the trolley as long at the winch then connecting it to the winch with longer strips of 2” angle. This is much quicker and easier.
Thanks, at least you had the right idea, keep the axial load in line with the hoist. I have to say though, when hosting heavy weight above your head, the less modification the better....
@@jknapp6920 I ended up using 2 pieces of 3” angle 16” long and doing exactly what you did except in one piece instead of two. It worked perfect. I’ll be using it to lift hogs to skin and eviscerate as well as an occasional cow.
@@jknapp6920 if i heat steel to a dull red, that is hot steel but well below what would be considered forging temperature. Obviously a soft iron face will dent under steel that is hitting with a small surface area, like the corner of a hammer.
Thanks for sharing the learning curve. May save someone a busted head. I did a video on converting a similar hoist to a remote controlled hoist. It is a pretty cheap project. Here is a link: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ghiS5GVAiqw.html
I have a similar electric hoist rated at 880 pounds and want to mount it to the bottom of my exposed garage trusses. I know that isn't a great idea or very safe however I won't be lifting things anywhere near it's capacity or leave it hanging very long, I plan on using it to lift things long enough to get my wheeled work table under it. As a added safety measure I plan on using a Underhoist adjustable Jack Stand to relief some of the weight and stress on the trusses. My questions are how much weight will a 1 1/2" schedule 40 black pipe support? Keep in mind that they greatest slung gap will be just under 23" (2 trusses). If the black pipe will work what length should I get 4',6',8' or 10'? Or would a 8 foot PT 4x4 be better? Lastly which either I use one area I can mount the pipe or 4x4 happens to be in the V where two 2x4s meet the bottom rung of the truss. Would it be better to mount it in that V or further away from the V? Hope I'm explaining this so it's understandable.
Nailed it! Excellent solution! I couldn't agree more with the alignment of the hoist (not perpendicular to the beam) and the additional trolley can only help distribute load.
Excellent! I am building a new shop, and want to have an electric winch that can double as both an engine hoist and be able to pull cars into the shop from outside. My shop is an all steel structure, so installing an I-Beam will be no problem. Good looking set up! :) Question: Did you make the winch mount or is that something I can buy?
You mentioned the dimensions of the angle iron in the video but I’m unclear about it so I have a few questions. Are both legs of the angle iron 3” and are the brackets 2” long? How far from the end did you drill the holes? Are all holes 1.25”?
Not sure what you are referring to about legs. Yes on a 1.125 hole saw, leave about .5 material from edge of hole to support weight. The 3" side to connect to trolley. Hope that answers your question. Stay safe.
Angle Iron is commonly referred by the depth of the 2 sides and length, as 2"x3"x5' bar, so I cut up a longer peice into 2" x 3" x 2-1/2" on the 2" side I drilled a hole to accommodate the bolts harbor freight supplies with the hoist. The 3" side 1-1/8" hole. Hope this helps
J Knapp ,Thanks! The term legs refers to the sides of the angle iron. So I understand that one side is 3” and the other is 2”. I made a mistake concerning the size of the hole. It is 1 1/8”. It appears that the length of the angle iron is 2” across.
is there any chance you could send me a picture of the inside of the hoist remote control? i pulled the wires out of mine and not sure where they go back.
Hey I'm sorry but I can't take apart my control to show you, the wires are different colors either way. I'm sure you can find the schematic on line somewhere. Good luck, I hope can find a way to get it correct.
@@jknapp6920 hey, I figured it out. i found one on google images eventually. it was actually the controller for a northern tool lift, but i guess they are interchangeable. thanks.
I suggest you do some research, these are cheap non hardened steel, other show the same damage when hot. Re the "cuffing" I'm sorry your parents beat you for nonsense.
@@jknapp6920 I did do my research, I have one and use it , and with HOT METAL, it does fine. Any anvil that you strike without anything in between the hammer and the face of the anvil. Would you do that to a Hay Budden, or Peter Right, or Trenton? No, because of fear of marring the face. Do a video of you doing this to a quality anvil and see what happens, I know you won't, so I'll just tell you. The face of the anvil would be marked all to heck just t like the harbor freight anvil. Why do you think master smiths give apprentices railroad tracks when they have plenty of nice anvils?
@@fearthespear4242 try the link, here's a guy who gives it the benefit of the doubt and works it, and still it marred. I have no need to go into my history with tools or smithing, suffice to say I've worked a a number of anvils and the striking plate should not dent, it will crack. Now I've also manufactured in china, and I can also tell you they are incapable of achieving the same hardness as say A-2 tool steel can which would be 59-61 rh. A good anvil face should be like a railroad track. and I believe its a tradition of making a track anvil as a right of passage and not working inferior steel. (not sure of that, but do know RR track is a good surface to work on.)
