I have put about 7000kms on them in about 3 -4 years, i had another bike that has been and gone . I put a 180 section on the back which pinched the tyres round a bit too much on the rim. Treat is starting to look old not worn to the depth gauge- i liked them i thought wet grip was great ( I've heard to the contrary) and in the dry on the track day they were predictable- oh and last year i think they saved my bacon on some powder pumice on the crown of the road invisible until the slide- they gave just enough warning and feel that i stay on.. i would considet metz road tec 01 look like a wet slick race tyre. Or tkc70. Pirelli str, metz karoo street. These are from memory so exact model may be wrong. Oh and a dunlop mutant looks pretty cool- no idea if they grip.
Hi ive just gone back to watch my video refresh what holes you refer to.. If you mean the 3 x 7mm holes i drilled out the spot welds to remove the db killer then ... No, i just left them. There may be black soot all over the inside of the tail piece buts its not leaching externally yet. May be some heat proof tape might work?
Hi.. I see why you may think that ... The tread pattern is counterintuitive to the direction of roll. However i did just check and it would seam the tyre has been fitted correctly, according to the arrows on the tyre.
@@richbrett7268 Interesting, i have seen more videos about this weels and all coincide with you. I am thinking in buy this weels and for that i am doing many questions. Thanks Bro! Im going to install this weels on my Kawasaki Ninja 400cc, what do you think, it Will works?
@@richbrett7268 Precisely im looking for weels for wet floors and stability, mi style is not to diferent at the speed sport bikers, i only would like know if this weels works good in city, highway and pronunced or closed turns.
Honestly... I have never experienced so much confidence in the wet as i do on these tyres.. Right from brand New it poured down on. A 150km journey home back twisty roads un scrubbed tyres.. They were awsome. Never a bad moment in the dry or tested at the race track. ( not a track tyre)
Use titanium bits designed for metal and you will have no problems. Standard bits that take a while generate so much heat that the two pieces become welded together and impossible to remove even with sufficient size hole. I speak from experience
Thanks for the Video tutorial. Very helpful. I found I had to loosen the indicator first and strap towards the saddle with electrical tape, so as not to get in the way of the drill. Also, the lower pipe worked out a bit harder than the top pipe for me. I had to step up to an 8 mm Cobalt drill bit. Maybe stronger weld? Was a bit stubborn!! I used a slide hammer tool, rather than your gate hanger method to knock out the baffle.
I'm the guy on the yellow SV, The rider behind me overcooked it into turn 1 and took me out just as I was tipping in to the corner. Big bump on the head otherwise OK. All good fun!
Hi. Glad your ok. If you would prefer me to edit or take the video down.... I can do that no problem at all. I plan to try and put a compilation together of the day... (not necessarily the crashes ... there were a few)
thanks for the video!! unfortunately my english isnt that good, i didnt understand why you made these 3 holes... are they needed to pull out the db killers?
Hi. It depends on euro 3 or 4 design differences. But on the euro4 exhaust like mine, it has spot welds that need to be released by drilling out a hole a little larger than the weld. I Hope that helps.
Hey I just stumbled on a notice and re read your question...... I suppose if you wanted to re insert (put back) the db killers they may hold without any further fixing , personally I wouldnt risk it. If for example you drill out an M8 8mm hole you could use a M8 round head bold and nut with thread lock or spring washer to stop vibrations loosening the fasteners, you could used a split pin just one the hole but you may experience a chatter or rattle from the baffle on the can.... just my thoughts. I can't imagine ever putting my db killers back in ... it just sounds better to my ears. And even people following have said how nice it sounds.
@@fabiod87 The baffles can just be hammered back in with a rubber mallet. They fit crazy tight and don’t vibrate after reinserted. No weld or bolt need. Just rotate them so the holes don’t line up and pass inspection without any problem. Sound without baffles is amazing
Hi, did not take audio before removal, i can take a quick clip including sound with db killer removed. It not much louder. A bit deep note. I have posted a video taupo to napier on this bike if that helps. I plan to put headers to remove the flapper valve and the cat next.
Hi thanks I would not like comment, in fear of poor advice. The guy on you tube with ftr1200 did an exhaust mod which i found useful background information that help me arrive at attempting the db removal. He is american had a bike race van all set up, id say he is a know racer in motor cross or similar. I can't remember his name sorry. But cans maybe simular to yours?
Hi, yes more throaty , not excessively loud, less of a "leaf blower" hum from the motor. The flapper valve in exhaust is my next job supposed to give a deeper note. The perforated baffle is still visible within the cans just the short section is the decibel killer. Personally I prefer sound as removed, not too intrusive especially as I wear ear plugs for wind noise anyway.
