We are a husband and wife team that have built everything from furniture to barns to houses since 2003. We have a passion for fixing, rehabbing, and creating something new and unique. We do hope that what we post will inspire you to create on your own and build lasting memories with those you love.
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Hey, Thanks for the very informative video! I'm putting one of these big 6" Honkers in my master bath and you showed me what I'm up against. The only thing I'm doing different is putting insulated plastic sleeving on the outside of that Everlast tubing because I live in Northern Illinois and want to keep the moisture from condensing on the cold aluminum during the winter. I appreciate the detail you provided!
Thank you for the Very usefull video, i am about to build this privacy fence to replaces my old wood one. My question is, do you buy the fence already being disassembled? I am just thinking to haul the whole thing on top of my car and it’s kind of unsure 🫣 Thanks
@@AshleyDMoore-d3s Hi. Thank you for watching. They come in bundled packages that are sealed and easy to pick up. Because the fence is hollow vinyl, the packages are pretty light weight. If you have a rack on the top of your vehicle, it should be fine for transporting these panels. You Can Do It 👍
@@MokenaBobHi. That is strange to me that you have a remote control for your car, but that back of the motor does not have dip switches or a learn button. What I would suggest is opening up your remote control in your car, if possible, and see if there are little dip switches in the remote control. If there are, you can use that as your determination for what type of garage door opener you have and then you can go from there with the remainder of the video programming. I hope this information helps.👍
@@theropesofrenovation9352 Hi. That is a really good question! I don’t know if that unit came with plugs to simply plug up the ports that are unnecessary. It’s been a while since I installed this. However, if they didn’t, you could attach the little hose to each one of the ports that is unnecessary and then fold the hose on itself and crimp it so that it essentially closes off those ports. I hope this information helps, makes sense to you, and is useful for your project.👍
Thank you so much for this!! I have been trying to reprogram the opener for 2 days. Everyone else was confusing and didnt work. You are so clear, great steps, and worked instantly!! Thank you so much!😊
Yeah so "expensive" #1 shingles, are all quartered and clear showing nothing but edge grain. That's what makes them stable. You cut a bunch of face grain. Probably fine for a shed no one will see but on a house it's all going to curl and look terrible. The only way to make shingles on a band saw that are of the same or superior quality to #1 shingles is to make them out of 1x quarter sawn clear cedar which is about $5.50 a linear foot or $8.25 a shingle for an 18" shingle. Multiplied by 20 is $165 and here we are at the same price for a bundle of #1 shingles. I really wouldn't be knocking the video at all but in your description you're talking about making expensive style cedar shingles and that's not what you're doing.
Nice job, but the crimped ends should go in the direction of airflow. Otherwise, there are edges inside the pipe to catch lint. It's very important to put the crimped ends in the direction of flow on water heaters and furnaces. Many people do it the wrong way, but it's important.
Your video is a masterpiece! The combination of informative content, engaging delivery, and high production value makes it a joy to watch. Thank you for sharing your expertise in such an accessible way.
My furnace/central air was leaking all over the basement because of a clogged drain pipe. As a DIYer it took me forever to figure out why. As the drain pipes were all glued together I had zero access to clean or look inside the pipes. Installing the EZ trap will solve any future issues. I don't know why when you pay someone to install something they have to do everything in the easiest, fastest way possible that will give you problems later on. A professional should have known these drain pipes clog all the time and that they were creating a future problem by not providing a cleanout. It was probably on purpose...
HI! Thank you so much for watching the video. This EZ Trap should help to solve future issues and make it so much easier to clean out when necessary. Depending on how old your home is, these traps might not have been available at the time. I hope that this video helps you to install one of these traps. You Can Do It👍
Thanks for the video. I have not installed mine yet but the confusing part is that the sides which screw to the studs are not flush. You’ll notice that they are kind of bowed with that lip in the back area to hold the thin glass you describe. It seems like when you screw it in, it would be impossible for the sides to sit flush with a 4” deep wall.
Hi! Thank you for watching the video. If you pull up the description box to this video, you will see that I have a link to the installation instructions for this surge protector. If you pull that up and go to page 6 of the installation instructions, it states that you can use a 15 amp, 20 amp, or a maximum of a 30 amp breaker for this protector. Hope this information helps. 👍
Hi! Thank you for watching. We use rigid foam insulation boards for closing off the vents. They are super easy to cut with a box cutter and fit nicely in the foundation vents. We then tape over the foam boards with the same tape that we used on the foundation wall...Zip system tape. Hope that this information helps you on your project👍
@@YouCanDoIt2 thank you! a few other questions: what did you use as the “filler” for around the foam and in the cement cracks? What was used to stake the vapor barrier into the ground for uneven areas? And last question…. My crawl space is very damp. I moved in 5 years ago and it was dry with dust and suddenly over the last 5 years of rain, the ground is very moist and now there’s mold! I don’t see any mud or pooling of water, just moist, squishy ground, squishier in some areas, and white speckled mold all over the floor. Not to mention … a possum got stuck under there (apparently) and passed away… leaving droppings everywhere! One more thing to add.. I live in California where it’s not too humid. When I moved in, we were in a drought for a few years, and in the past 2-3 years, there’s been a lot more rain than normal. I was looking at neighbor’s crawl space and theirs has white mold too, and the ground looked similar. I’m thinking of just encapsulating the area and putting in a dehumidifier if I can, but I really don’t know what to do. So lost… Any thoughts? Thank you in advance 🙏🏽
@@MooseALT Hi! The filler that you can use would be something like "Big Gap foam" that you can buy at Home Depot or Lowes. However, if you cut the rigid insulation board as close to the shape of the foundation vent as possible...you shouldn't really require anything more than the Zip System tape to seal the remainder of the gaps as you tape up the insulation board (if that makes sense). As far as the moisture and mold goes. You might want to spray your crawlspace with Mold Armor to eliminate the mold...prior to sealing up the vents. Wear a good mask or respirator to avoid breathing in the fumes. Allow the crawlspace to air out for a few days before proceeding. Then, close up the vents and run the dehumidifier in the crawlspace to wick up any remaining moisture before laying down the vapor barrier. That could take an additional few days to accomplish. I have had to do this exact method on very moist crawlspaces. It works well! Hope that this information is helpful!!
@@YouCanDoIt2 thanks very much!! In theory… what if I didn’t remediate the mold and just bought/ran the dehumidifier and then tried my best to do a good thorough job with laying down what’s needed for encapsulation?
@@MooseALT The problem that I see with that is that once the mold dries you will have mold spores that may become air borne and become something that you may breathe in…especially if you have your return handler or furnace in the same space.
Hi! Thank you for watching the video. Yes!! It is absolutely strong enough. In fact, it is very hard to pull the vent cover back off once it is attached. Since this is installed on my garden house, it runs almost the entire day. The cover does not vibrate or shake, and it holds up well when it rains and washes clean with a simple garden hose. I hope that this information helps you 👍
STOP! What’s on the tub/can is not the complete product instructions. They just wouldn’t fit. Whenever you use a product, *always* refer to manufacturer’s install manual and/or datasheet for details. This goes for Schluter, RedGard, any product used in such jobs really.
@@joseluisperez1801 Hi! The oven easily slides right back out. The bracket locks the back leg into place to hold the oven, but it easily slides in and out.
@@UnitedStates. Hi! These units are incredible and super low maintenance. I have personally had one for over 5 years. It functions exactly as it should. Humidity is very low in my crawl space… it stays exactly where I set the unit humidity percentage…and I have had absolutely no problems with the unit. I would recommend Alorair units to anyone!👍
U were perfect in explaining one small step so many others missed or confused the best of us. Worked first time for me using your method with my purple learn button.... cheers from Canada.
@@RogueSky8 Hi! Yes… it grabs on pretty tight, but you can work each corner off and it will come right back off. There are ridges on the corners of the vent that grab a hold of the frame as it’s pushed on. In order to get it back off you have to pull pretty hard. I would give a quick check on the sides first before you attempt that just in case whoever installed it decided to side screw it as a permanent installation. If you don’t notice any screws, then give it a good tug on each corner, one at a time, and it will come off for you.👍
Psst! One tub of Redgard is NOT enough for that shower. Read the label and the ANSI standards. If you roll it on you’re gonna need like 4 coats to be truly waterproof or you can trowel it on with two coats. EDIT: each tub of Redgard is good for 55 sq ft, that shower looks to be well above that. I hope you did a REALLY good job sealing the tile joints and edges
