I have many of this little Kyosho shocks and they all work pretty well. Before you assemble you must sand the inner plastic part. Get sure everything in the mechanics work smooth. At my buggy the screws has thighten to hard.
Thanks for taking the time to send a message. The shocks themselves are smooth and work fine. It’s the ball joint at each end of the shock. They are very tight. If I remove the shock and just clip it onto one ball joint the shock hangs there locked up I.e. it doesn’t move/rotate smoothly on the ball stud. I still have not resolved this issue. I tried sanding the ball studs with some very fine grit sandpaper until they are polished smooth (recommended in another video on RU-vid for this same issue) but it’s a very time consuming process and still didn’t manage to get them moving freely.
@@nissantitan2013 I have heard a lot of reliability issues but not the same things. I owned two of these. One was perfect and the other had a starting issue where sometimes it wouldn’t fire. It would turn over but wouldn’t actually start. I took it to a few mechanics and nobody could work out the problem. My friend had one where the alternator belt snapped. Another friend had one that had a few issues but it was getting old. They’re not very fuel efficient either. My Audi is way more powerful and yet still more fuel efficient. They are cool cars though so still worth a look.
Did you try putting some grease of some kind on the shock ball joint? Also wondering if stiffer springs and/or lighter weight shock oil might be needed...
Yes I did put some silicone grease on them but didn’t fix the issue. If I take the shock off the car and hold onto the threaded end of the ball stud with the shock attached, it hangs off the end of the ball stud rigidly I.e it does not feel move as it should. It is completely bound. I have tried sanding one of the ball studs using a drill and 2,000 grit sandpaper as some other people have mentioned in other videos on RU-vid but this didn’t fix the issue, was very time consuming and didn’t seem to help at all. I hardly ever use my buggy now because the handling was destroyed with these “upgraded” expensive shocks.
I agree it's BS that Mini Z uses screws instead of bolts. If you strip a plastic hole the chassis becomes garbage. Hobby price but toy quality. Shame on you Kyosho.
I have the same problem on my fenix 7. Actual temperature and sense are completely wrong. I have sent an email to garmin, so I am waiting an answer. Other issue is that I can not set as defaut other location in weather widget because current location is always as defaut.
Well I built mine yesterday and mine are absolutely perfect, very smooth and built very well good quality. (If all your screws aren't over tightened like this man's are) either that or his have been assembled incorrectly trust me these shocks are the best upgrade I've done to mine
Nice of you to assume that I’m an idiot. I’m a structural engineer and I have researched all over the internet for assistance on this issue and I have read through the installation manual 10 times including using a translator camera app to translate the Japanese to English to see if I am missing something. I have also removed the shocks from the car and they are smooth in their action but as soon as I clip the lower ball cup onto the ball stud, it is completely siezed. THAT is where the friction comes from, poorly made ball cups and/or ball studs. I have tried taking the ball stud off and holding it in a drill while sanding it down with 800 and 2000 grit sandpaper as another RU-vid video suggested (because he had the exact same issue as me) but it was extremely time consuming and didn’t fix the issue. Maybe if I spend hours doing it but I shouldn’t have to, it should just work and be manufactured correctly. Next time you write a comment on someone’s video to imply that they are an idiot, maybe consider that YOU might be the idiot.
I just drive mine around in the living room with a string attached to the back so that my cat chases it. Fun for both of us. I used to have a Traxxas Slash 4x4 with 3s lipo and a lot of upgrades. Now I just want a little truck to zip around inside. Sounds like a good buggy though.
Thanks. Yeah I have tried that with 800 and 2000 grit sandpaper but didn’t fix the issue. Plus we shouldn’t have to do that. Kyosho need to fix their stuff.
I think, but I’m not 100% sure, that these big bore shock sets require the “Mini-Z Buggy Pillow Ball Set” (#MB018)…? Kyosho seems to have a habit of releasing hop-up parts that require other hop-up parts to work, but they don’t mention that anywhere 🤔 I had similar issues with some parts a few years ago, I don’t remember exactly which part it was, but it wouldn’t fit without some other part I of course hadn’t bought…
Also iirc, Kyosho, like Tamiya, uses JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screws, so you’ll need JIS screwdrivers to have the best results, Phillips will work if you’re a lot more careful, but I’d recommend getting a JIS set anyway as they work much better on Phillips head screws as well.
I had the same problem until I realized I was tightening the plastic pivot joint to the shock shaft to tightly and it was deforming the plastic a little and not allowing it to pivot freely.
Thanks yeah I noticed the same thing and backed them off a bit. It’s still binding though. If I completely remove the top screw, the shock is still firmly gripping the bottom pivot and won’t move at all without some force.
Pozidrive is not Philips that's why they slip! Don't need to drill holes for the brace because you can just heat them and insert slowly while turning. Many people are particular about hardware, mine have a nut on the backside I'm not using a screw at the corner of the brace. I play at skateparks
Thanks for the info bro. There were two spacers in the pack that weren’t mentioned at all in the instructions. Perhaps they are the spacers you mention?
@TheJaisah yessir pn racing makes longer ball studs for big bore shocks. (2 pieces, ball stud and screw, goes through middle of it) Kyosho has regular diameter shocks that are nickle plated that do not require longer (or spaced shimmed forward) ball stud shock mounts.
I tried but it doesn’t seem to make a difference. Also even if I completely remove the top screw, the shock is still completely binding on the bottom pivot no matter what orientation I put it in.
Has Garmin made any statements about this issue? I just spent over $500 on a new Garmin Smart watch, and the temperature is completely wrong. It's ridiculous that they can't get this right.
Yeah it's not a great user experience. I haven't heard anything from them. Maybe you could send them an email and see what they say? I ended up selling mine because of that and some other gripes. I hope it works out for you.
Thanks for the heads up bro. I assume you're talking about the upper ball joints since they have plastic spacers. My upper ball joints are working fine and I was careful not to overtighten them but it's the lower ones that are binding. They are just a solid metal screw with a ball end/stud so they wont deform. I have tried taking them off the buggy and clipping the lower ball stud cup on and it's completely seized. I can shake it around holding the screw and the suspension doesn't move at all. I have also tried sanding down the ball stud with 800 and 2000 grit sandpaper to a clean polish but it still binds. Unfortunately it seems to me that it's a manufacturing issue with the lower ball cup and it's far too tight.
Yeah. I tried contacting the shop that I bought them from and they offered to send me some more ball studs but I can almost guarantee that they won’t fix the issue. I think it’s the plastic female part of the ball joint that is too tight.
… that sucks! I am considering mini-z buggies for living room racing, but this is giving me a pause. I hope though that you will find a solution (maybe some silicone grease/spray could help). I really appreciate you posted this.
Thanks bro, yeah it’s a bit of a pain. The buggy is really fun and nimble when it works. The standard suspension works pretty well and there are some cheaper alloy shocks that Kyosho sell (not the big bore) which use the standard fitting system so should work better than the big bore shocks. I did some googling and there are some hex screw kits made by third parties but I’m struggling to find one that it’s stock. I still really love my buggy, it’s just so frustrating at times and I’m feeling a bit disheartened. Are you looking at getting the standard buggy or the brushless?
Based on my experiences with this watch, the weather isn’t accurate at all. Often it will say there’s 100% chance of rain but you look outside and it’s clear blue skies or it says the temperature is 18 degrees but you look at the hourly forecast and it says it will be 26 degrees before the hour is out. It’s just wildly inaccurate.
Flat 6. Not the same. Both are 6 cylinders but a V6 has the cylinders in a V shape while the flat 6 has the cylinders lying down flat each side of the crank shaft. Flat 6 has some advantages, specifically when it comes to having a lower center of mass so it can improve handling whereas V6 are a bit more compact and are easier to fit into the engine bay.
Hell yeah man, come along. Everyone is welcome. Games are every second Saturday, weather permitting. Could do some skiing/snowboarding while you’re here ;)
Hahahah the ez30 was a thirsty one. I think that with direct injection and an 8 speed transmission it would have been improved. Maybe turbo as well. A beautiful smooth balanced and great sounding engine
Haha yeah it’s only about 7 seconds 0-100. I have a 2013 Audi S4 now with a supercharged V6 and a 7 speed dual clutch and I’m picking up a 2017 Audi S4 soon. Both of those will leave an A3 in the dust in a straight line and will be out of sight on a windy road.
