Changed one on 94 Cheyenne yesterday soaked wth kroil 2 weeks in advance finally got time to work on it tried vise grips no luck. Got out propane torch but decided against using it I worked on boilers for 40 years got out my pipe wrench and old Betsy my ball peen hammer after 3 blows it broke loose then used the vise grips to remove it. My boy took me advance auto pick up a Bosch for 37.00 plus tax wires were not as long as original but got it together boy my truck sure runs better. I'm 71 still at it.
Sure would've been helpful if you had shown what the heck you were doing with that wrench at 2 minute mark. Telling and showing..... two different things.
Update. Removed front sensor on 4R100 transmission. It was covered in oil and some metal flakes. Cleaned it reset computer shifts perfectly. These sensors rarely go bad. So I would check front sensor first for debris. Then check and test rear. I wonder how many transmission shops have ripped people off for this simple fix. Thanks RU-vid mechanics. 👍
Changed my speed sensor on 2001 F250 159k miles transmission has been serviced fluid clean and fine. Didn’t fix issue. So going to assume it’s inside the transmission itself. Update. There are 2 speed sensors on the 4R100 transmission. Ones on top towards the rear middle of transmission. Other towards the torque converter housing on top. Follow the wiring harness. Had no problems removing it. Lets see if this does it.
A bit late. You’ve probably know by now. That oil gauge is an idiot gauge in that you could have 5psi or 50psi. I have the same truck engine and trans. I put a mechanical oil gauge on mine. Good job. I know how I’ll do my oil pump now. Thanks
A bit late. You’ve probably know by now. That oil gauge is an idiot gauge in that you could have 5psi or 50psi. I have the same truck engine and trans. I put a mechanical oil gauge on mine. Good job. I know how I’ll do my oil pump now. Thanks
"Very carefully selected because it was cheap" :-) You don't mind if I use that do you? I've got that job to do, your vid was the most helpful of any I've seen telling, and showing what I'm in for. Thx
I watched this video before repairing my CT60. It's the 1000uf 16V capacitor needs to be replaced. It's better to get a ESR or fluke circuit multimeter to identify which one is broken but it costs $200 so I chose the one that it looks a little bit bumpy and it solved the problem!! thank for posting this video so I can fix it by myself.
omg God bless you! my fiancé and i have been working on our ‘89 4.9L and the oil pan did not want to budge! the rear trans mount makes a whole hell of a difference here! we will try that!
Yes. It’s easily removed on a 2 wd. A 4 wheel drive is another matter. It’s impossible to get to and there are two sensors I believe. One is on one of the differentials believe on the front but not positive.
I know that there are some 3g alternators that will fit that bracket and there are some that will not. How did you know whick vehicle/years would fit? Thank you.
I have the exact same sound bar with the exact same problem. A couple of weeks ago I had to press and hold the remote power button a few times to get it to power up, then one night the light just flashed and no power up. If I unplug it and wait a few minutes, it will do the same thing, flash light but no power up. So I had an electrician friend replace the same capacitor you did and 5 others in the same area that look suspect. Put it back together but same thing; flashes on briefly but won't stay on. So I inspected the board and can see that there is an area on the bottom side of the board right under the title lettering beside that empty white receptacle; the area has a series of parallel solder lines of various sizes. Those lines in your video are all solder-coloured where as mine are half solder coloured and have copper coloured. Are they burnt and could this be my issue? I have pictures but can't figure out how to post a picture in this comment LOL
My son was doing this the other day, heated the hell out the sensor, then spayed it with PB Blaster. The BP Blaster ignited and spayed out of the tube like a torch..: with burning droplets falling on his head. Luckily, he came out of it only with some singed hair. HEAT + PETROLEUM = FIRE Wear those safety glasses folks!!
Some of the stuff we didn't need to see all of actually, like you cleaning the oil pan for 5 minutes, just explain that you need to clean that whole mounting surface. I guess I agree with some of the other commenters we can just fast forward through those parts. But the tip about unbolting the transmission mount and it just gives you the clearance you need.
I was told that the toe in measurement should be done with the weight on the wheels and on the ground for accuracy, Do the instructions for the TNR plates say anything about that?
The jacks are under the axle. So there is no change in angles because the front suspension is still loaded by the weight of the truck. The only difference with tires on the ground would be tire deflection maybe
I can’t for the life of me seem to get the pan out. I’ve lifted the motor and the back of the trans like shown in the video and I’m still 2 inches from the pan clearing the trans
I have this set and I use it at work and it works every time, you have to hammer the bit in and try to use a straight ratchet instead of a flex head it'll help you a lot more..
My same soundbar, went out as well, Didn't use often, not loud! What's up Sony? Enjoyed Video! BTW, if Anyone has an extra Capacitor, I'll pay ya for it! Low Cash presently! Thanks, Richard ♟
