American Autowire is the premier electrical manufacturer for OEM restoration and custom wiring harnesses, parts, and accessories. Here you can find product informational videos, our TV appearances, and much more! Stay tuned!
I used the neutral safety switch on the 4l60e for my ls swap & wired it up to my reverse light wire & it worked... now im working on the taillights in my gbody montecarlo
Thanks for the video very helpful. I have a peculiar situation where when my flute is at the top of the tank it registers empty on the gauge and vice versa when the float is at the bottom of my tank when I should be out of gas, it reads full on the gauge any suggestions what I should be doing? I’ve checked the wiring make sure it’s correct, and it should be
Concise, accurate and to the point, no B.S or nonsensical intro's, loud music and other undesirable nasueating drama that may require Medical treatment in the aftermath!! This is THE ONLY WAY to disseminate factual scientific training. Thank You Sir 10,000 stars *** and a free Big Mac with fries,,for Life 🍔🍟 🙂👍
So my fuel gauge on my 1980 CJ5 Renegade reads before E when off to only on E after I start her. I never really had a full tank. Tank is poly 15 gallon. My temp gauge works great. Sending unit is pretty new, but I did not check the calibration when I dropped it into tank. I will drain and drop tank, check my grounds and check sending unit. Anything you can tell me why gauge is acting like that? Thanks. I am sure it is something simple. I do have another gauge from MTS as that is where I got my poly tank. Ohms reading says it is 73 - 80 empty, and 8 - 10 full. Thanks.
I am so confused with pin 85 and 86. Why are some vehicles earthed to 85 and others are earthed to 86. Its understandable if your just hooking up your own relay but if your temporarily tapping into the earth pin whichever it is, you'd want to make sure you're not earthing out the switched power one.
Does that Yellow Diode wire get wired to a 5 pin 12v relay ? I have an 84 vette that has many wires pulled out. I had just saw this video and noticed that diode wire you sell looks JUST like a wire that came with this car. It had a note on it that said “starter Motor” and at the other end it was attached to a Bosch 5 pin relay with a note that said “use 4 pins only”. I haven’t been able to to figure out what that relay is. And this DOES have an HEI dist. So I’m guessing the guy ran that yellow wire to a relay ? Another wire to the relay goes to a ground. The other 3 pins don’t have anything to them, BUT there Is A wire or two near the battery that has the right pigtail attachment that “could” connect to this. So I’m wondering if I’m going down the right path figuring this rely goes to that starter and that I should trace wires under that assumption ? HEEEELLLLPPPPPP LOL
so you can use the headlights when the key is of as the unfused wire controls them and parking lights work only when the key is on (fised power supply). Do i understand correctly? i am rewiring my truck and planing to use a GM switch. If my understanding is right i am going to wire tail and park together with dasch us unfused and my headlights us fused. Do not want them to work without the key on. Will that be good?
Are headlight relays always under power? I noticed on my car, with no key in ignition, and with headlight switch removed, I still have power to the headlight relay. If I pinch the contacts with my fingers, my headlights come on.
there are often things that will always have power, often cars will have a little clock or digital display, a red beeping "security" light, you can switch on many interior lights without the car being turned on with the key, since power comes straight from the battery through that red wire there will always be power going to it however if it isnt going anywhere else from there the battery usage is minimal to non existent 👍
Never said how to check the gauge itsself. I have done all those things. No matter what I do the gauge maxes out. Doesn't matter if sender post is connectrd or not
Excellent explanation. Did any years with this type cylinder/switch have an accessory position? I have an assembly from a very old Chevy with 5 positions. Assuming ACC/LOCK/OFF/RUN/CRANK... but key only removes in the second from left (assumed LOCK position); any thoughts?
Can you guys do videos for the other MSD 6AL. Specifically. I have the Mopar 68-70 b body auto wire kit but can't figure out which wires go to the MSD 6AL magnetic ignition system. I'm assuming. the Pink and brown go to the MSD smaller red?
The replacement of the original VW 1970 T2 flasher relay with a new one works perfectly for LED bulbs. But since the spade pin connectors are not aligned I had to make short wire jumpers with a male and female spade connectors. Then make sure the jumpers are connected to the same pin connections; 31, KBL, 49 and 49a.
Why does my starter have TWO wires on the same connection? It's black and red. It makes NO sense what the hell these are for, and I can't find any info.
Built my first car, a 1973 pontiac firebird, and mounted it on the driver side inner fender. Its mounted along the same route the factory harness took originally. Safe and away from heat, stone kickups, water, etc. If you didnt know any better, it looks stock.
what if its show empty in the fuel meter when i remove the fuel sender connector, but its always show full when i reconnected the fuel sending unit to the connector socket?
my fuel meter show full when its connected to the fuel sender unit, when i remove the fuel sender unit connector its shows empty in the fuel meter, which one at faulty in my case? anyone can help?🤔
Does anyone know why it's not reccommended to simply wire the battery (+) directly to the mega fuse, and the mega fuse to the solenoid? As opposed to battery (+) to solenoid and solenoid to mega fuse? That way you'd only need 1 cable going to the starter solenoid
The starter will pull a lot of current. If after a hot soak, the starter may draw more current than the fuse could handle. The starter should remain wired directly to the battery.
Fuel sender wire SHOULD BE PINK, not brown. They have been that way for years, get up to date!!! Don’t confuse people!! Black is ground, (but some manufacturers are changing black to yellow for ground). AT THE GAUGE, it should be purple for ‘keyed power’ to turn gauge on, and blue wire for lights to gauge. I’m sorry but if you don’t bring people up to date they can/could have problems, and with the fuel system it could be fire. One time a customer brought boat to me, customer couldn’t get gauge to work even after replacing sender and gauge. He had POWER, 12 volts going to sender. He thought 12 volts to sender then black will complete the circuit. Asked where he got info to do this, he said a RU-vid mechanic. Some day someone will get hurt then these RU-vid know it alls will get sued.
That sounds a little backwards to me if it doesn't have a connection to start with it cant heat up when it heats up it breaks the connection when it cools down the metal relaxes back to where connection is made again and the cycle repeats.
Was really hoping you would have stated what the typical "S" wire amperage draw is. The ones I have are drawing about 60 amps just for the solenoid, which seems excessive to me. Even the new one right out of the box is like this. Makes wires hot also if you crank for any length of time. The one on my 04 5.3L only draws 10A, is there really this must difference in starter solenoids between 94 and 2004?
