Just my opinion muffler mods are useless why do it so the saw runs faster its not a race car your cutting wood that's the main reason people do it. Should have used a power tool would have been a lot quicker just saying
The suspension kit looks like it might be a good option. Mine came with a wrap handle so I'm covered there. The big dawgs look more like bling than anything functional since I don't think it's a very good idea to really dig them in... But I guess that's a matter of individual taste. BTW, I didn't have any trouble removing my dawgs without removing the muffler. Just use a smaller wrench. The clutch cover replacement also sort of seems blingy. And you lose your captive nuts! I was also puzzled by the guide plate replacement. I don't think there's much stress on that part... so the only difference I can think of is that the saw gets heavier with the thicker one. Anyway, thanks for a fun watch!
metal expands as it gets hot. so you are expanding it into the hole.. you need to heat it up and then cool it quickly to make the stud expand and contract to free it up
adding weight by useless cover, what is wrong with standard cover? is smaler and lighter. full wrap handle is not practical in forestry. dont know how you feel trees in usa but in europe they have to be cut low as possible. good luck with full wrap. its not a rescue saw. dogs take out your bar lenght, you need 2" longer bar to compensate it, just more weight. did you ever worked with a saw full day? useless mods at all
You do not obviously know how to deal with rusty items like the gentleman said heat the area around the bolt I live in the rust belt actually on the east coast all I deal with are rusted nuts and bolts 24 and 7 while I'm fixing cars When you live in an area and rust you are not just an automotive technician who takes things apart you are a corrosion and rust expert You have to develop certain skills and techniques to work these things to avoid breaking bolts constantly otherwise you would never get a single job done Otherwise that done cool tool thank you for the demonstration
I heard bucking bill say they need atiffer bar springs. He did that to his its flexible as hell he said. Felt like it was going to break. Im sure he did that star spong too but i know stiffer apringes for sure.
always turn a stuck bolt both ways before removing...firm taps with a hammer can also shock the corrosion bonds in the threads... heat is great but the two tips on left should always be done.
Continuously torquing the stud in one direction while it is near red hot is sure to fail as heat is softening stud , heat it as near to the block as possible and allow it to soak in to the threads and rock the stud gently in both directions to try and clear some rust from the seized threads. A few hard blows to the end of the stud can help break it loose. The welder trick is the best choice if you have the tools . You could even cut the stud off about 3/8" from the surface and place a larger hex nut over it and weld it to the stud , the heat transfers very quickly right where you want it , this works great , if this does not work you are drilling and tapping anyway.
I remove broken bolts with mig welder, it the easier way. Drill a small pilot hole in the broken bolt, start the weld in the hole, and build it up until you can get a large (new) nut on it. Fill the nut with weld pool to the top, , usually come out easy, sometimes I have to repeat with new nuts if it keeps breaking loose. I would not drill and tap unless you make a jig or use a drill press to keep the drill centered and vertical. I've also done it with a stick arc welder using 1/8 rods. Try using a nut twice the size of the one that snapped off, it allows more weld filler and gives more leverage. This one was snapped off below the surface and took 4 tries with bigger nuts each time. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-COpRIVGiTqo.html
the Bark Box Westcoast Saws has for the 500i will up the power also. It would go right where the exhaust cover you took off goes. Great upgrade for power on the 500i Gordy says you would have to increase the fuel a bit on it to adjust for exhaust port upgrades
Did WCS give you any price break getting all the extra parts you did? Where did you get the inner guide plate, can you send me a part number and link where you purchased it? Thank you.
I'm not affliated with WCS in any way, I just like their products as they are good quality. The inner guide plate number is: 1128 664 1001. I get all my parts through my local Stihl dealer, so no link
I could feel it as I was cutting, but it is a semi chisel safety chain, I have since gotten a full chisel regular chain to make it a more fair test, along with several other brands of chain as well
The saw is still new and I run the factory air filters until it needs to be changed, as for the bark box, I put an Egan straight shot on my 462 and didn’t notice enough of an increase to justify the noise level
Thanks for your video. I am planing to buy a 500i soon, but wonder what you can tell me about/between the 462 since that was another saw I did think about. Thank you for anything you can help me with.
I have both saws and out of the two I grab the 500 first and take the 462 as backup. In ease of starting and power into addition to its light weight my 500 is one of my favorite saws. The 462 is a great saw, but my 500 is my go to. You won’t go wrong with either one you pick
Nice! I’ll do the same on mine. I’m still on the fence about the wrap handle, I’ve been using saws without for a long time, but I could see some advantages.
It is a personal choice, most of my big saws have a full wrap handle and most of my small saws don’t, I don’t use it all the time but it is nice to have when I do
Stihl is so behind husky on spring av that oem has to be thrown away and a after market because Stihl does not understand spring avs yet. Simple mods to make a new saw work is sadly the norm since manufactures are getting cheaper and increase the price you pay for a product.
I believe the parts are still OEM Stihl parts, just off of a 660 or 661, but it helps keep the bar from wobbling when a longer bar is being used. I just wish the parts were on the saw from the start.
This can also be done with a tig welder if you don't care about a certain tungsten or if you dedicate one to contaminate on stuff like this. A big tap with a 2 lbs hammer on a punch held with vice grips on the siezed fastener then a quick blast with the tig torch then a penetrating oil after it cools a little. An impact driver used carefully can sometimes help as well. That said...I've really wanted one of these heaters.
@Mechanical Matt a broken bolt or siezed stud. The heat cycle alone from heating and cooling will free a frozen fastener. If it's blind or inaccessible, cut a small sleeve out of copper tubing to fit into the ID of the hole. Don't start a puddle, just get heat into the part and work it back and forth until it gets moving. Clean the area first if possible or the arc will wander like crazy. Great vid btw 🖖
What i found is file your chain for your setup what saw and what bar leinght you use. File the chain with round file or Square ground file try diferent raker depths and diferent filing angles for your setup and that is it. For me personaly for my ms462 25inch bar i found Square ground hand filing and rakers 0.025 works great saw is very smooth in the cut it doesnt bog down i use this setup in most cases. Except if i cut and do lots of limbing of softwood in the summer i lower the rakers to arround 0.03 and for frozen wood i also adjust rakers or filing angles if necessary. I dont realy like stock chain.
I like the chain better after its been run and sharpened, but to be objective I have to use the chain fresh out of the box when comparing. I use a skip tooth square ground 3/8 chain on my bigger saws and longer bars
I found that out after I uploaded the video. I am going to try and find some Husqvarna chain that is full chisel and that doesn’t have the safety rakers
I finally got my hands on the Stihl Hexa chain too, after trying for the last 8 months. That chain is a BEAST. 💪🏿💪🏿💪🏿💪🏿 What more can I say, STIHL RUNS THE YARD. 😊👍🏿 #stihlpower
