M.G. good to see you back in the garage again.. That is going to be a very nice bug when you're finished.. See you on the next video.. Take care and God Bless...
The early models do not work. That way, there is lot tension on spring where connect to decklid it snapped backward in order to install you have forced back on with lid halfway close on your back and same time forced spring back on lid.
M.G. its good to see you in the shop again.. Are you going to repaint the car after you have all the body work completed? Thx for bringing us along on another adventure.. Take care my friend...
Fasteners are designated by their diameter, not socket size that fits them. So those "10 mil" bolts ate technically M6, and require a 10mm hex socket to turn. Thanks for taking the time to produce the vid.👍
M.G. it's good to see you in the Lab again... Is there any way that you could film a little closer.. I had trouble seeing what was taking place... Thx for bringing us along... Take care and God Bless... Btw, where are you located? There is a guy in Canada that you remind me of...
Depending on which wheel you have, you can see it behind the wheel. To refill, you need to remove the wheel. There is a method of installing a tube into the MC and using the OG MC as a funnel. www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=724987
67 had swing axle with the straight clutch arm. We change those all the time to the straight one and it doesnt hurt anything. Also when it it is the bent arm Once it is tensioned it wont interfere. Just a little hard to get the wing nut started. You will want the wing nut on there at some point . believe me. On clutch cables most of the problems happen in the tunnel behind the pedal assembly. That is where the most stress is. Sometimes in the back because people dont counter hold the clutch cable with vice grips or a 7mm wrench properly. Usually I use vice grips because with 1 hand I can hold them and spin the wing nut. With the Bolt style you cant hold both so it is easier to fray the cable.
Make sure you have all 9 shims in between the pully on the belt.....All 9 shims need to be in there or it will crack the pully. Some on 1 side some on the other side. But you need to have a total of 9......
I all my years in California back in the 1960s, I don't recall ever seeing a Beetle in yellow. Tan, yes! Blue [various shades], yes! Red, yes! Cream colored, yes! and Green, yes! But yellow!?
That car heater that uses the engine's heat exhaust to warm up the heat exchanger . . . _watch out_ for carbon monoxide poisoning, as that was an issue with the '67 Beetle I had.
That is the wrong master cylinder for when you remount the body. That one is made for a dune buggy; the proper master cylinder will have two lines stretching to the trunk to a tank to check the fluid level and keep it full.
That would be for a newer model. I want to clarify for those looking at this in future. This MC and reservoir was recommended by a lot of folks, you can see here on Chris' Classic VW channel ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--KYT7sv74Mw.htmlsi=Dh8MlbQqo8bEXFhw&t=186 and this is the recommended Master Cylinder/reservoir from the manufacture of the disc brake kit as well www.cbperformance.com/product-p/113-611-015bdd.htm and www.cbperformance.com/product-p/product-p/6085.htm
I believe Airkewled makes a clutch adjustment tool called the 6 shooter and it makes adjustments very easy.. ck em out if you're interested.. thx for bringing us along.. Take care my friend...
3:40 shows the “Hoover tin” , usually thrown away. “Hoover tin”? Whaaaa? And , a wider fan is of course required for the doghouse style to work properly. Just trying to help.
Thanks for the comment! One of the many things not shown in the video is me putting the larger fan on. I did it after this video was shot, so it didn't make the cut in the final video. Always good advice.
Mine's so junky it's been running going on 43 years now, well over 170,000 miles on it; same engine, never taken apart. Still going strong; beating itself to death I suppose.
Had my fuel inlet come out while changing the hose. Roughed it up with sand paper and reinstalled with thread lock. Added safety wire between the hose clamp and bolt on the far side of the bowl. No problems yet, but yeah I'd rather drill tap some threads for a different fitting. One thing, read on the Samba that Dist. Vac Can hose needs a hook or loop to keep fuel from eating the diaphragm.
I have done the Dog House conversion on all my single ports motors. Really runs cool. Summer time cruising all day. I still like to run 92 octane in the summer. Thanks for the video!
Looking good sir. I'm doing a similar build on a '61 bug on my channel and just found your channel. It looks like you are about a month ahead of me currently. Keep up the good work on the bug and the videos.
I recently had help with my '63 Beetle from a mechanic who worked for VW in the 60's and 70's. He advised me to avoid the braided fuel lines, as nice as they look, because the covering hides any cracks or weaknesses in the inner hose. Made sense to me.
The Braided ‘Cloth” fuel line keeps the fuel cooler so it doesn’t tend to boil causing vapor lock issues. Just change your fuel line every couple of years and your will be safe
Always a good idea to grind off the lip on the hub inner edge, clean out the star adjuster holders, and lube them with non seize. Make sure the E-brake cables are free, too. Makes adjustment loads easier.
Don’t get overwhelmed. Break it down to the absolute basics; a Beetle is literally nothing more than a body, engine and wheels. They are the simplest vehicles ever made, arguably. No coolant. No ac. No nothing. Hell they don’t even have a heater, they use exhaust heat to “heat” the car. It’s a go cart with a covered body
Look for a book called "How to keep your Volkswagen alive - A manual of Step by step procedures for the complete idiot" by John Muir AKA "The Idiots Manual". The guy was an old hippie, his explanations were simple and comical and his diagrams and artworks are amazing. Get the Chilton's and the Haynes manuals also, but the Idiots Manual is the Bible.
It was a good video, and I did enjoy it... How long do you think it will take you to complete this vw project? It sure will be nice when finished... Thx for bringing us along on another adventure...Take care my friend...
I am hoping to have the pan back under the body in a two or three weeks. My goal is to get it the welding done, then I have another project and Ill come back to this one when the weather is warmer for paint, so possible end of summer or the fall?
VW owners manual states to check fluid at each fill up. That's why the reservoir is located remotely. Also, that is why you have an emergency brake. This is not needed really. If you are losing fluid, you will notice if you are proactive.
Yeah I was wondering about that. I daily drive a 62 with a single circuit, even though my brake system works extremely well and my emergency brake is adjusted properly I still wonder if I should upgrade to the Dual circuit or just get a new single Circuit Master cylinder as preventative maintenance.
Axle boots should have the seam at 9 O'clock , seam facing the rear with sealant in the seam. There is no bellows in the seam and will tear. VW owners manual.
VW didn't use a filter because with 2.6 qts and changing oil at 3k mi., it didn't need one. I clean strainer every 3rd oil change. It is always clean though. Quick job with the center bolt.
