As a Mopar guy, and someone whose worked on these engine for 20 yrs, you are better off starting with a 09+ VVT hemi, way less problems and more power potential. Great video with that said
Oil wicking, I’ve heard that happen when your oil sensor starts going bad, also having the same issue p0300 got my injectors cleaned new o rings new gaskets for intake manifold and throttle body and quadruple checked my spark gap and car seems to be doing good
Hell yeah man. Happy to see another neon still on the road. FYI, where is your subframe *to* frame brace at? (passenger side brace). I noticed you had it missing and caliper was zip tied to the hole. That brace makes an enormous difference for wheel hop/ support generally speaking. Take care man!
Car probably hard starts because ITS HOT how hot are we talking here ? Because Antything too far over half on these is pretty worrisome likely to pop the head gasket
200-210 on the temp gauge. Referring when I say “hot” is operating temp and extended driving time. I’m having the issue when everything underneath the engine bay has become naturally heat soaked from driving for an extended amount of time vs “cold” coming up to operating temp and under 30 mins of driving. Heat soak is the culprit in this issue in my opinion. Just need to figure what it is effecting.
@@BringingMoparBack Ahhhh if you still have the stock radiator that could be the issue…. I have a koyorad which is a lot thicker and better at distributing cooling than the factory one stays well under 210 around 140 cruising /180 /190 is all it ever sees even after doing pulls and beating on it check if your fans are turning on as well these cars are weird also and only fan is on for cooling and usually not kicked on unless it’s around 200-210 with factory thermo unless cruising around35-40mph or you have the ac on….. if mine ever started creeping at stops lights or anything and that kept her nice and cool just turning the ac on with that other fan going!
Also would not recommend washing the bay on any vehicle really…. But especially these mannnn with the dodge wiring back then I feel really bad for you man :/ there’s a lotta people that buy these fix em up and get em ready for daily driving and sell em for a pretty decent fair price 😭😭😭😭
Why on Gods green earth does your turbo sound like that !? Also afr should never ever be below 12.5 at full throttle if you want it to last……. I’d change all fluids do wheel bearings bushings and sway bar if you have not already get a 160 thermostat too I’m sure you’ve seen these love to run fucking HOT
Get a short shifter if you don’t have one as well as tracking down shifter cables is not fun these days and the short shifter has stops to prevent that from ever even becoming a thing (I’ve owned 2 of these cars now and have been around them for years and constantly research them and have multiple friends with them as well) ( just in case you’re wondering weather or not to take any of my information with a grain of salt or not 😅😬 )hope this helps ya enjoy her for many years to come!
Where did you learn how to tune? Its a big turbo neon. His WOT afr SHOULD BE in the 11s. If he gets above 12 he needs to let out especially on pump gas. Please do not give out bad information when you obviously have no tuning experience. I have 20 years of tuning experience. I have tuned countless vehicles. Any turbo car that is not running a stock turbo I tune at 11.5 AFR with E85 and 93. If you run lean you chance making alot of heat on the piston and breaking a ringland.
And @srtskittle tune is done by AGP on 93 pump gas. Target AFR 11.5 WOT per their tuner. In my experience every tuner has their own opinions on set ups. Some are good and some are better than others depending on if you are going for safe/dependable or max hp. I’m running AGP 50-trim ball bearing turbo with .48 A/R and PNP 1200/1400cc injectors from AGP. Usually going with a company’s tune with their parts is the safest bet in my opinion. Thanks and love the discussions!
