You could use a hydrovane/jack hammer Compressor, cheap at a work site auction. I had one running a sawmill, if the supply line blew it would still hold 100 psi out of a inch and a quarter pipe and im sure it went to 150psi.just a thought.
im looking for a way to melt dirty alum and not have all the screws and other tiny items to go out with the alum. (out the drain hole) I think Im just going to use a tilted furnace so the alum can drain once liquid but not enough angle to taker screws and other small items with it. Ive got half an old propane tank that was 4 foot tall its big enough enough around for a whole mower engine., which is the biggest thing Id melt and boat props maybe.
ill hafta remember that I was going to hose feed mine, ill hafta get some sort of bottom feed system when I fire mine up.. I assume thats the only way to get rid of the air bubble? Or maybe smaller hose..
You really need to figure out a better way to make compressed air... Thinking a v6 or v8. One side stays stock. And the other side Flat plate with check valves.... I was going to modify a 4 cyl engine and drive it PTO off my tractor... but accidentally ran into a hydro vane compressor. So its driven by PTO 100 cfm but only 100 psi.... Makes a pile of air.
Awesome vid. I have a home build cnc plasma and regularly cut 10mm - 3/8" steel and stainless on it. Didmt even know about the wiggle pierce in sheetcam. Thankyou!!
@@NOBOX7 so then how could I make my own nitrogen fertilizer in a grid down situation? My goal is to 100% DIY my own nitrogen fertilizer. And yes I do buy it right now but supply if supply lines do get cut then I can go to your method.
Couldn’t you use (Ceramic) Flame Holders for Turbulence without restricting the Inlet? Pulling more Air in seems desirable compared to increasing the Presurized Air Supply. I think you already had Designs with increased Turbulence for Burnout. "Little Dragon" or something like that? And your Air Preheat always looked good on the other Devices. Slightly below Cracking of the Fuel should move the Point of Vaporization for the Combustion back a tiny bit and might increase the Stability of the Flame at the same Time.
You cant create that turbulents in the back end needed for higher power operation if your pumping to much air in the secondary . Similar to what we observed with the Fat man burner . High pressure turbulents zones give you high power
Just an idea to mule about. You can probably get away without an compressor by building a self contain system, a Tesla turbine - Tesla (air) pump (as a compressor) setup, where the Tesla turbine will be driven by a steam, being created by the burner, and the turbine will be co-shafted with the Tesla pump (a Tesla turbine run reversely). The only disadvantage of such a system would be that it will have to be wrapped up slowly (clearly) till it get to an efficient working regime but for a long running processes will be an extremely efficient use of some of the exiting heat and (what is likely more important) for remote, sort of off-grid, applications will not require any electricity.
Waaaay to complicated. The Burners themselves are already a whole Can of Worms. Industrial Plants sometimes use Steam in the Ejectors for the Fuel, when they have it available from the Process anyway. It reduces the Flame Temperature, but that’s most of the Time a good Thing as it reduces NOx Emissions. Then you "just" need a powerful Blower for the Flame without a strong Compressor for the Atomization. Sucking in Combustion Air for a First Stage might be possible with high Energy Steam. Then you can add the Main Air downstream after the Fuel has been reformed from the wet and rich Burn.
@@FullSpeed_only Agreeably it is more complicated then if one buys and uses a compressor, for sure. But again, the compressor is an additive tech (technically not needed) that depends on electricity which by itself requires tech to be transformed. As to the Tesla turbine - Tesla pump config, that is a way more simple to build then many people realize, especially in co-shafted configuration and when there is no need for conversion of the rotational energy to electricity.
Sounds like you need a flywheel -pully combination.If you got the chunk of steel you can make it yourself.V belt pulleys are easy to make ,lust make sure that bottom of pulley is deeper than the root of the belt .Only sides of belt need to touch the walls of pulley.You can make the profile knife for it from hss blank easy by making a template on paper .most belt manufacturers have information about sizes and angles . As of flywheel its also easy ,outside of flywheel is heavier than the middle ,several ways to achieve this ,one is making it out of steel and leave outer width larger while reducing thickness of the middle pulley . If you work in aluminum what works great is cutting a dovetail groove in outer diameter of pulley/flywheel on both sides and then you pour molten lead in it -machine the pulley to size and balance it if needed.
Definitely neodymium magnets. I’ve got a Ryobi 80V, but the brushless motor is actually slightly smaller than this one. But I will say that the Brushless motor on the Ryobi cogs are very strong and tight. The motor is ridiculously fast for what it is. I only use it for small branches and tree. Say 6 inches or less. I prefer stihl gas 2 stroke. I will add that I have a cordless 80v Kobolt leaf blower that is a slightly older than when they made the switch to brushless so has a 80v brush DC motor that is like a 770-780. It is top of the line in quality, speed, and torque.
may be up size the jet if you ant all ready on the engine on compressor richen it up a bit the next size drill bit up the main jet via a hand mini drill bit i did that to my pressure washer and racing mud mower mud mower runs a bit fat fuel but no longer dies taking off due to up gearing and lack of traffic pump [squirter jet] all so on intake port add a ruff texture to the runner floor help atomize the fuel can do that with a burr going along the short turn of heads intake port .it will help possible fix the issue
@@NOBOX7 gotcha im skeptical about everything, i believe allot of conspiracies are possible but i personally havent done enough research to confirm or deny anything myself. especially to what when and where stuff like chemtrails happen specifically. contrails are everywhere visibly benine or not, no clue on the chemtrails as they wouldnt look any different. so i believe they can and have been deployed, but not to what extent or why. Best wishes for your area, there could be some foul play but i dont see the full picture yet to agree the changes happening near you are from purpose made chemtrails, and i wouldnt claim to be smart enough to say for sure either lol
You cant get above 2800 F without oxygen injection . They want 1750 C . Oxygen concentrators will be used . Also notice how the flame shrank , this allows us to put more power in a smaller space . I have a barb that's restricting o2 flow . It will flow better when they hook up the 1/4" pipe .
Do us all a favor and take down this video please. If you don't know what your doing then why post a video of it? It's clear that you have no idea how the torch works or why hole is there yet you decide to plug it up? Video like this cause injuries.
Yes lawnmowers can be a real waste of time to fix. When I work on them I make sure it's a good repeat customer that doesn't mind spending money. Or it's an expensive mower that's worth sinking time into. And on stuff like that bill by the hr. There are many times I wouldn't want to hire myself
You have a leak if you have to recharge. Most likely it's the valve cores on those service ports. Put some 1/4 inch brass flare caps with copper gaskets on those ports to prevent leakage.
