frikken neck of the starter where the rubber gasket goes around the collar broke when twisting the starter out! Thank goodness I could fish out the broken bits with a screwdriver. Thank you for making this vid. After cleaning up the hole where the starter gear goes in, putting in the new starter was a snap! Thank you! (2000 Trailboss 325.)
I cant seem to get the bolts out to remove the starter. They hit the plastic and i cant bend it enough. Bottom one is hitting before its even unthreaded all the way.
Looks simple enough to work on. I imagine the lawnmower repair shops have more than a few sitting around for parts. These trannies were pretty popular with mtd products.
I’m going a single “pop” sound from the back when I accelerate from a stop on my frontier. Everyone saying u joint but visually I am not seeing anything wrong with them
I'm a toyota tech (not a master, but gettin there) and this is unacceptable work. I dont know how they could have got it that wrong. They didnt use a guide support piece for the inner race when pressing the spindle in and it was clearly not centered flat. They should have noticed it didnt spin and not let it go to the customer
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And wadda ya want to bet that the reason for that is a lift kit? Guys are quick to get er up in the air just a few inches! That shouldn't hurt anything right? Wrong! The drive line is knocked out of phase which causes the bearings to start digging into the trunion which is the center piece shaped like a cross. You need seven degrees negative angle to straight with the pinion yoke to make it right. That way it will pull itself straight from the counter force of the pinion gear climbing up the ring gear when you apply the gas and the driveline is under a load.
You mention valid reason, but I don't have a lift kit in the 2005 Chevy Colorado or Ram Dakota 2011 and they both fail every 2-3 yrs. Both symptoms are 65-70mph vibration droning.
Not a true hydro transmission , it's a constant velocity transmission , just like the ones in the Troy Bilt and yard machine lawn mowers it uses belt tension provided by varying tightness of the belt aka foot pedal depressed to go faster or slower , I know I have seen many yard machine riding mowers with this same type transmission and they always seem to start making a whining grinding noise before they just stop working
@@mightyjoeyoung1390 many people get duped into buying a lawn mower thinking they have an automatic transmission when in fact it's not a hydrostatic automatic transmission but rather a vari-drive system with a foot pedal you depress for forward speed which actually just tightens the drive belt up and that was my point
Well,if you've got a yard that doesn't have alot of obstacles these aren't bad. They still pull decent and are easy enough to get used too. Dont get me wrong,I'd rather have a hydrostatic, but these are a bit cheaper to help keep costs down.
Did yours ever squeak mine doesnt clunk but it just started and mine is a squeak sounds like coming from rear of my truck only when I accelerate and I cant hear it after 20 to 25 mph please not mine just started and its squeaky not clunk
Needle bearings in ujoint cups are dry...had this happen on an old motorhome on a Ford chassis...started out as a squeak squeak squeak...when I pulled the shaft and old ujoints they were dry and had no grease.
My 2006 Silverado makes a popping and cracking noise at low speeds in drive and reverse. No noise when shifting from park and you have to be moving. It quits once you go about 15 and up
Good video, I just took mine apart, the drive shaft teeth were worn. Question: there is a ball bearing that sits in upper casing that holds this "gear changer" in place. The three grooves determine the gear. When you reassembled, where did you set the shaft? fwd, neutral or reverse?
I left it in neutral, that way it was easier when I hooked the shifter back up. I think any spot would be fine as you can move it with the case back together and can kind of feel what spot its in.
So my GMC Canyon vibrates at around 50mph or higher when I release the gas. I also have a chirpy squeak sound when im below 15mph. Ive been trying to look up some info online but am finding mixed answers. One constant answer was the U-Joints going bad. Can you tell me if you had the same experience so I can confirm its the U-Joints ? Thanks for the video ✌ 😊 ✝ ❤
@@joshjosh6842 if you are asking me, I havnt had a chance to get them replaced. So you are getting vibrations when you let off the gas as well ? Please let me know what happens if you fix them before I do. I really hope thats the problem for us. ✌ 😊 ✝ ❤
@@USAlien234 did new ujoints fix the noise cause my 05 colorado squeaks up to about 40km and makes clunk sound when i shift from park to drive not sure if its my diff or driveshaft
Dirty\Faulty Air filter & Mass Air Flow sensor. Dirty\Faulty Injectors & Throttle Body. Or transmission pressure solenoid or shift solenoid for that gear or broken 'drum teeth'. Did you ever solve this issue with your truck? Any news? Thanks !
How do you know if the bendix needs replaced also.? I bought a bendix too, but I would rather do it your way if I can, and not replace bendix if i don't have to
hello, thanks for the video, I am writing to you from Italy, I have a problem with my lawn mower, with the forward gear if I am going downhill it picks up speed and you can hear a noise at the transmission (continuous beat), which it doesn't do if I go downhill in reverse. What can it depend on? Thanks Marc
@@MrQuattroDriver the traction is ok uphill and flat while downhill it picks up speed as if there was no gear engaged, and you hear a strong beat from the transmission that ends when the traction resumes when the descent is over
You have to take the brakes off to get to the bolts. To get the old bearings out you just have to beat them out. I used a steel punch and a hammer. You have to knock them out from the inside out.
