Hello, I'm a small-town country boy and on this channel, I do repair on small engines, tools, and other random crap, build random items, troubleshoot mechanical issues. I also Ride Motorcycles build and test off road buggies and who knows what else I will get into.
I have the exact atv but had to replace the front axle cv shaft. And did so but the hub keeps falling off is there any thing that holds it the front hub on?
Not sure what to do about it. I had to get a new crank case... original got busted. I assembled cautiously and the crank won't even turn. I'm no machinist so.... I'm stuck and sick of throwing money at this beast!
@@michaelanderson4395 Is the crank pressed all the way together? The connecting rod pin should be flush with the outside of the crank web. Just a thought.
I made a rookie mistake while disassembling my son's Scrambler engine and didn't mark the balancer shaft and it's gear prior to disassembly. 1. How should the balancer weight be orientated in relation to the dot on the the face of the balancer gear?
Hi I have a Kawasaki Bayou 300 2x4 and it will intermittently bog when you bottom out the throttle, even when it’s hot and it also just kind of misfires when it’s an Idol, I’ve tried everything I know. Was wondering if you had any ideas
Bogging is usually an air/fuel issue but could be electrical. You said you have done "everything you Know". Can you give me some history on the machine, like has this problem always been there or did it just start having a problem? Have you replaced the jets in the carburetor with new ones? What all have you checked? Intermittent problems are difficult to figure out so, any info you can give me may help.
I have another problem. The engine is still running after removing the key from the ignition. And after switching the button to the end engine. It is still running
Im planing buy a cx 500 like this, but before that thanks to ppl like You I can educate myself on the typical problems that i can eancounter as a owner of this beauty.
Hello, I am stuck as heck with my 95 sportsman! I got it with a seized engine. It seems the crank was initially assembled without the rod bearing, which left enough play for the rod to smash a hole in the crank case. That led to debris shattering the piston skirt and ultimately jamming up the engine. I replaced the crankshaft assembly, crank case, all bearings and seals. (your videos were very helpful with this thanks) When I went to start it up it initially ran. but for some reason it cut off, no alarming noises, just as if I pressed the kill switch. Now the thing wont run. Here's what I checked: The key is on and selector to run. The shifter is in neutral. The battery is charged. The carburetor is clean and all passages are clear. The carburetor is getting fuel and the bowl is full. The throttle is moving as it should. The spark plug has a strong spark. The spark plug has a small amount of oil and gas mix (barely any). There is a lot of compression (did the finger check) There are no broken wires that I can see. Disconnected the CDI black wire (it was worth a shot). I tried putting fuel directly down the yap. The oiler is connected to I've been running normal fuel. I disconnected the oiler and used properly mixed fuel. I disassembled most of the engine again and verified that the stator and crank timing marks are correct. Sometimes it has a small backfire out the exhaust, and it seems like its almost firing. but never gets more than a puff. what on earth could be going on here? Do you have any suggestions?
I would be suspect of the crank seals, a crack in the engine case that is leaking, reed valves not sealing. Cylinder base nuts loose, or a failed gasket. In other words, a vacuum leak. So, check for that. First, I would pull the crank case drain and see if it is flooded than I would disconnect the exhaust and see if it is obstructed, and I may even try to start the engine with exhaust disconnected and see if it would start. (don't let it run long with exhaust disconnected a second or two max). While you have the exhaust off look at the piston for any damage. These things are easy to do. I would definitely put a compression tester on it and try a new spark plug. You can never know what other owners have done to the machine in the past. The engine going from running to not running without any odd sounds or backfire suggest a crank seal or reed valve. Of cores Spark would be next in line but you checked that, make sure it's good spark. Spark should be able to jump 3/8 in. gap or more. So, this would be the next thing I would check. Compression would be on my mind also 120psi or more is a healthy engine. 2 strokes are simple so, think simple things. The crank case needs to be Airtight and hold pressure. (Note: the crank case can have a huge leak, and the engine will still make compression.) You can test this by covering all the ports and adding Air pressure to the engine and it should be able to hold 5 or 6 psi for several minutes. There are videos of how to do this if you're not sure. This is pretty much all I can think of that could be wrong if everything you checked is in good working order. I hope this helps and I hope you get it worked out. Go back to the basics of 2 stroke troubleshooting. Don't assume the work you did is correct, double check your work. This has got me in the past. P.S. More reasonably what had happened is the rod bearing disintegrated. The factory cast pistons are prone to braking and destroying the engine. Not saying someone went through the trouble of separating the crank and left out the rod bearing by accident, I'm sure it is possible but that happening, and someone going through the effort to true the crank and install it like this is highly unlikely.
@@MrFixit1 Okay, a bit of an update, I pulled the crank case drain and a small dribble of fuel/oil came out. When i disconnected the exhaust there was a couple ml of mostly oil. I decided not to run it after that and disassembled the engine. The seals all appear to be in good condition and i didn't see any visual signs of oil coming though to either of the outer sections. I did notice that the piston (new) has some damage to the skirt. upon further inspection i saw that the retaining pin had come out and caused some damage. When i installed them i noticed that the replacement retainers had significantly weaker spring tension when compared to the original. I ordered a new piston and ill be using the original retainers. The cylinder wall was undamaged (it seems to be pretty tough). I don't think that this explains the oil in the exhaust though. unless maybe due to me cranking the heck out of it maybe the fuel burned off in the occasional puff and the oil stayed behind. That being said I'm planning on getting a compression tester and doing a crank case PSI test. This all may be helpful to other people so ill be sure to add some updates.
@@MrFixit1 okay final update. i reassembled the engine with new gaskets and seals. i also replaced the piston. the compression test read 142, so i think its good. I put it all back together and it fired right up. I ran it until it was warm and adjusted the carb for a good idle and response. it seems to be all good now. Thanks for the push in the right direction!
Thankyou for the video, my Nordictrack 1750 had exact same issue. I relaced the mosfet but also noticed a burned out resistor next the the earth LG1 so i replaced it as well. When i powered up the treadmill the new resistor burned immediately however the treadmill worked. Well for about 15 minutes anyway now its back to tripping straight away again. Ive tested the motor for shorts and its fine. motor runs smooth off a battery. any suggestions?
Thank you for the video I had to use your method of disassembly, my ole Polaris shifter stuck and was a mess. lots of rust and water. after watching your video i was able to correct my shifter thanks
I have one battery that seems to charge fully and the little green light comes on, but it doesn't last long before it dies. I have another battery that charges perfectly. I'm assuming my cheap charger that came with radio is functioning fine and the one battery is out of balance. I just looked on Amazon and I can buy a whole radio with another battery for $17. I feel like it's not worth the risk of messing around with opening the battery case. Your video was helpful and I will hang onto the faulty battery for now, just in case I really, really need another battery and for whatever reason they're not available. Thanks for sharing this video.
Hello mr. Can you please write me type of thread what are you using for pulling secondary (driven) clutch ? I have xplorer 400 2000, and here in europe i need to make some tool because I dont have at home any other than metric bolts...
1000000 THANKS! I AM SO HAPPY THANKS TO YOU..the plans for the trail boss are VERY HARD TO FIND AND ARE PAYING TOO EXPENSIVE for me.. IN RE 10000 THANK YOU
I would have liked you to make a video showing how the lifts and or when the wires are pulled out..how to put them back..thank you I notice that..a 250cc and a 400, are identical so I will be able to put A 400 in my 250
What size are your Tires . The back one is not 140 - 90 - 16 how is it not Rubbing the chain going bigger than that? Your front looks bigger than my back tire. What size is it... Sounds crazy brother...
Thanks for your videos. It's been helpful for me! I do have a question for you. I have a 1996 polaris Sportsman 400 4x4 that I acquired, and the break handle master cylinder didn't come with it. I ordered one on eBay, and i have the wrong one. I'm trying to find the right one to order. My model # is the W968040. Hopefully, you can help.
@@donaldreece7037 This is what I found www.amazon.com/MATI-Cylinder-Replacement-Polaris-Sportsman/dp/B08DNRD5Z6/ref=asc_df_B08DNRD5Z6/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=692875362841&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13172301499116825762&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9058936&hvtargid=pla-2281435180058&psc=1&mcid=b10169532e92369bb1a0678c93ee1217&hvocijid=13172301499116825762-B08DNRD5Z6-&hvexpln=73&gad_source=1
This is the one I bought, but the break line end is too large to insert into it. The new handle has a smaller dia female fitting. This is why I thought I bought the wrong one. Also, the two prongs for a plug, I guess! I didn't see any plug hanging anywhere. This was another reason I thought I had the wrong one. But I do appreciate you helping, I will look at it closer!! Thanks again!!
There's profit in testing when it's working to know what good values are. never hurts to get more familiar with your machine. "should i be seeing voltage on this wire?" is the difference in buying a stator, then a regulator, or replacing a (cough rusty cough) connector on the circuit breaker from your parts machine.
Easy question, does the regulator ground to the frame? from my experience, they "float" the AC off the stator no ground, but use chassis ground for the DC of the regulator. and at 7:35 you're measuring raw Amps output from the stator, substituting the meter for the regulator, as opposed to putting your meter in series TO the regulator. not really sure i understand the difference, unregulated stator output, or isolating regulator from the circuit to test the stator testing only? when i saw the 12A result, i was thinking of different resistive loads to add because of the fuse. partly also i was taught to always check circuits under load. speaking of, open circuit battery testing, i'll lightly load a battery, then see how close to 12.6V it recovers to.
In this testing, I was only following the flow chart in the manual to keep things simple as this was a recommendation from a viewer. As for the type of regulator I'm not sure I haven't found any information on the net for the Polaris R/R circuit. The R/R does ground to the chassis, but I can only assume it is not a shunt type as it does not have a big heat sink to dissipate heat. I don't own an oscilloscope to see the output wave form so, I can only guess. The amp output test was suggested in the manual as a "go no go" test. I agree testing circuits under load is the best way to test but again, I was following the manual flow chart.
I see that you were able to turn the motor over by hand pretty easily. I can’t seem to do the same. I have to use a wrench to turn it over. It’s smooth all around but lots of resistance. I’m stressing that I maybe didn’t use enough grease on the seals
If you have to use a wrench, the lack of grease is not the issue. Did you check the crank shaft end play? If the crank bearings are in a bind, then it will cause an issue like this. I wouldn't continue to build the engine I would disassemble the bottom end and make sure there is not an issue before I continued.
@@MrFixit1 OK I was able to turn it over by hand until the last bearing. (However, yours still seem to turn more freely than mine through the whole build ). I did have trouble getting that bearing in, and it didn’t feel as smooth as my old bearing so I think it is ever so crooked. I’m going to put the old bearing back in and see how it goes.
I have to replace the radiator fan motor on my machine. Any chance you'd be willing to remove and reinstall that? I'm potentially looking at removing a tire and axel to have better access. But maybe you know a better way?
First Rule, "i'm not smarter than the engineers" quick look, the switch gets power from the Red bus bar and feeds to the reverse limiter. so it's power into the limiter. avoiding "normally" nomenclature, when limit is active, power is being fed to the limiter. normal operation, the circuit is open.
How do cam journals look? Because they can get worn out to point where it wont run. Or in my case it runs but ticks like a sewing machine going down road. At that point need new head. Even though i only have 5 psi of compression i have auto mac compression tester runs on batteries so it could be wrong but starts every time first kick very easy to start 5 year old can start it easily. Just ticks after few seconds of running. I think you are going to find out you have similar problems i had all same problems. Just from others trying to figure it out you probably will get it but just wait ticking will start. Gotta pull cam completely out if its bad you will definitely see what im talking about.
I think it was about 2 or 3 hours. I was messing with the cameras and stuff, so it took me a little longer than that. Scraping all the gasket surfaces took some time. Make sure you align the marks on the gears.
