Just another small town car person trying to do car person things. From modification to repairs to car shows and autocross.
I’m slowly learning how to do all this and still searching for my 10mm socket. I’m slowly broadening the scopes of this channel.
So far, my little garage includes my ‘85 Isuzu Pickup that sometimes runs, my stickered ‘03 Mazda Protege5 minivan, and my financially unwise ‘13 Toybaru FRS that I can’t stop charging my MasterCard for.
Eventually a replica Shelby Cobra will be around and by that time I’ll hopefully have a shop so I’m not doing the car dance switching them in and out of the single car garage. It’s been a good learning experience thus far and I can’t wait to see where this journey goes in a couple more years!
Thanks for this. My son bought a set of these for his BRZ. He'll appreciate the fact that you're 'anal' about the wiring. He's in aviation A&P college an has been taught to be meticulous.
Some guys have made it work but with the TB being repositioned, you really need an aracer to have it perform. It’s worth it in my opinion. I have screamed the piss out of mine running over 80 on the interstate. I wouldn’t trust oem ecu to get the fuel mapping right.
@@RageFueled I wish.. I ended up having to abandon completing the mod, I really wanted to do it too! Great video, it was really helpful and I recommend it to some buddies 👍
1,000,000 times thanks for this video. My FRS is way better to drive now. The only thing i would add is that rod you were twisting with your fingers... I couldn't get it to turn. So i had to use a pair of vice grips to get it to turn.
@@mattstettler6131 the engine was supposed to be from a 2016. The washer was just one I had laying in the spare hardware drawer, I’m sorry I can’t give you any more info on that. Take that actuator into a lowes or something and start hunting for the correct sized one would be my next move.
@RageFueled C0035 title is Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor Supply but the description says a bunch about the Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor. Any way to know for sure which one it is? I'd rather just do one hub if I have to.
I don't what the hell I'm doing wrong ! I've watched these videos and done everything I can .. .and the fking thing still doesn't work right ! It's driving me fking crazy ! And I'm not a mature shade tree mechanic. Prayers PLEASE !!!
I appreciate any how-to vids, but please don’t encourage bad practices and cutting corners. If you crack a banjo bolt lose even just slightly enough to turn the banjo, you run the risk of introducing air into the system. Also, the fact that most crush washers are single use, you cannot guarantee a proper seal anymore. You would either have to anneal it or replace it. It takes $3 in brake fluid and $1.50 in washers and 2 minutes to do the brake portion properly. Encouraging skipping can likely get someone seriously injured or even unalived. Not to mention if the other party ever gets wind that safety measures were skipped, the possibility of a phat lawsuit. Proper reminder, if you do ANYTHING to the brakes other than a generic of and rotor replacement, BLEED THE BRAKES!! Better safe than sorry.
Thank you for the comment but I have to say in all my years of messing with banjo bolts, including oil feed lines to vacuum pumps, I’ve never had one leak when retightening. I understand what you’re saying, but have never seen that problem. Much less getting an air bubble in a brake line causing a problem. And I’ve had to ride other people’s bikes that had semi frozen water in the line. Now that was iffy. I understand what you’re saying and in practice you aren’t wrong, however the risk is so small in this case that I’d be more worried that the swingarm would snap that having a brake problem.
Honestly it’s hard to say because I also changed the battery. If it wasn’t my wife’s car I would have test drove it to see but she needed it on the road asap. I would suggest changing the battery first.
I know this is an old video but I have a P5 myself and I love her so fucking much. The person that had it before me mistreated the fuck out of it so now I’m fixing all the problems. I’ve spent so much money on the car. I just can’t let it go. The only thing left is to get new control arms, tire rods, and wheel hub bearings for the passenger. I’m almost done with the little issues it has then I can start the build
i believe the cb300f uses the same cluster as the grom, and has the same connector. the cbr300r has different clocks so im pretty sure thats why the adaptor is needed if thats the harness your using.
I was using the cbr300r harness. The donor bike was supposed to be a cbr300r. It was stripped of all plastics, lights, and cluster so I’m not too sure.
I went with 16/32 gears. 428 chain. It took 111-112 links I think. Stock swingarm. At 60mph the speedo shows 50. I still haven’t got a corrector thing but will eventually.
I know this was years ago ago but I been trying to figure out the color code for the stock wires and what wire do I need to connect to the amp wire to get my door speakers to work
