The best marine ingition components are made in the USA by CDI. Since 1982, CDI Electronics has been rebuilding and improving OEM ignition components to keep you on the water! CDI has also created M.E.D.S to help marine technicians diagnose most makes of marine engines with one system.
Tohatsu outboard does not get gasoline into the cylinders. The injector, ecu, spark plugs are intact. When I pour gasoline into the pistons, it works a little. When you press the starter, oily gasoline comes out of the exhaust. Greetings from Turkey..
I've been attempting to use this product for a couple of years now if you are familiar at all with any original engine manufacturer software you will be badly disappointed. I can't make heads or tails of historic faults for Mercury outboards
Don’t by their junk, sucks having to diagnose new equipment failure. I should have bought the replacement coil instead of switching to cdi downgrade! I do not recommend unless their quality control gets better.
I bought a timer base for my 1996 70hp Johnson. Spent 2 weeks diagnosing why it would start. Turns out assembled incorrectly at the factory. Green and Purple transposed. Tired several times to inform CDI. They made it way to hard.
are you still active on this if so i have a question 2003 mercury 50 efi big foot should there be any voltage at black wire with yellow tracer when key is on also at fuse block 4 fuses should there be 12 volts at all 4 fuses
I have a pull start outboard motor and I wont to fit a electric start motor ( serial number 0N045091 ) MERCURY MARINE ( 2005 ME30 EMLH ) ( 30HP) I hope you can help me thank you Joseph
Hi Clark, I just “inherited” an old 1970 Mercury Thunderbolt 7.5hp outboard. I’ve been fixing it up; new/rebuilt fuel pump, carburetor, etc. New stator, new ignition coils, plugs, etc. Excellent compression on both cylinders. However… the wiring was completely shot. I need to re-wire EVERYTHING, and I can’t find a wiring diagram anywhere. Please help! Even a simple explanation of the new stator (with orange and green wire) would be helpful.
Thank you for the thorough walkthrough. The alternator spacer came packaged together with the water pump pulley and confused me so your video helped me figure out the spacer was really meant for the alternator pulley. Was driving me crazy! Thanks.
Hi my name is Luis I have a 2013 Lowe 17.5 stinger bass boat it has a relay started clicking I had to disconnect the battery for it to stop the relay # is 882751 what does that relay run I replaced it and the new one is clicking too
Here is the procedure in my service manual : "Test spark plug leads for continuity. Calibrate ohmmeter on low ohms scale. Attach one ohmmeter lead to each spring terminal. While wiggling both spark plug covers and the entire lenght of the spark plug lead, the resistance should remain near zero ohm. Replace spark plug lead if your test result vary." Also inspect the insulation of the spark plug lead to see if there is a crack section. The rubber insulation of my bottom cylinder was cut by the cowling latch when I bought the engine. Continuity was good on the ohmmeter, but the spark was probably arcing out of the insulation. If the spark plug leads are good, check your ignition coil. I had to change one on my 1996 25hp. Since then, it run great! I hope it help.
My 1992, 200hp 2.5L Mercury wont exceed 3,000 under load! Forums said stator, so I replced it with a CDI stator. Also swapped new power packs, and a newer trigger. Still won't get up over 3,000. Idles and starts as usual. Happened after 20+ minutes of 4,500 RPM running great (just lost power), so I'm thinking ignition, not fuel (lost power like shutting off a light switch). Picked up a DVA adapter, going to try that.
I had the same problem on my 125merc 2stroke, I did a link & sink, cleaned the carbs, & still would not get on plane, rebuilt the fuel pump, & still nothing! So it narrowed itself down to the accelerator pump, & sure enough, that was the fix!
@@mlipsey66 Mine was the float needle seat in the top carb backing out!!! Pulled the intake cover off and sprayed gas into the carbs and the boat sped up when spraying into the top one! Inside the carb was like-new clean, it was just the seat that backed out.
I haven’t been able to find any video describing my issue. The power pack the coil packs the spark plug wires and the spark plugs are all good but I’ve got a cylinder misfire on three and four. It’s a 115 Mercury mariner 1984 to 1988 and it has six cylinders three carburetors. Carburetors have been rebuilt and also DC voltages have been checked and everything sparking the way it should.
Darn, I’ve been pulling my hair out to get my motor to start. Replaced the flywheel and stator because small chunks of magnets under the flywheel broke off. Still no or intermittent sparks. I didn’t put the kill switch in when turning the key. Could it be the problem? I hope it is.
You will not get spark if the emergency kill switch is not in the proper position. Other no-spark problems could be the trigger coil under the flywheel, the CDI box, or the ignition coils. I'm hunting down this problem right now for myself.
@@troywayne8759 I have ordered the trigger, the ignition coils, and the Rev limiter. Will test the motor with the kill switch key in today. I hope it starts. My old stator may be good.
I found the problem. It was the bad black/yellow kill switch circuit. I unplugged it and the motor started. After cleaning the plug of the harness, I reconnected the wire and the motor started again. Thank you!!!!!!
MY 06 90hp johnson suddenly lost spark at all cylinders. i unplugged blk/y kill wire and no change. Ohms reading on stator brown-brown865 dva reading 219 on orange to orange ohms 56 dva maybe 4.5 this is if im reading on correct settings on meter. not sure how to ck optical sensor ,trigger or power pack. Any help would be appreciated. thanks
Cutting the kill wire would be stupid. All you have to do is pull apart the wires at the switch, add a jumper wire and then take a multimeter and check for continuity at the motor end of the harness.
Thank you for your response I got carbs rebuilt and now getting a bad sneeze and rough idle was told to richen it up by the mixing screws so I was going to gently seat them and start fresh because I don’t know how many turns out they are currently at
@@gregstillwell your welcome, if that doesnt help you may have a reed valve that isnt closing properly, in fact thats what i would be checking next, good luck
@@SamandKadenGoPlaces yes and no. I fix it. But then it screws up another cylinder. One I track that down #6 goes acts again. I have not had all 6 cylinders fire reliably since.
So why does my motor turn on when I have the kill circuit disconnected from my power pack. But when its connected to the power pack it won't start. How do I fix this or put my own on to bypass harness
i have amariner maraathon 40hp which is running rough as guys on 2 cycinders. Sparks health on both cylinders and is present in both spark plus... but runs badly on 2. Runs smooth purring when i remove one spark lead. Same thing when I remove the other spark lead. on both leads connected, rough again. Someone mentioned i May have apartial short on my kill switches which is how I got to your video. Ive not isolated the kill switch at the closest point to engine as you have shown but just wondering if you had any other magic ideas?
