WORST THING YOU CAN DO IS USE A BEVELED STRAIGHT EDGE WITH A KNIFE! I stopped using these for cutting years ago because the blade can jump up and ride the bevel. A few slices to the fingers in the process also convinced me. Aluminium rules are also a poor choice since the metal is soft and can be knicked by the cutting blade. I only use flat steel rules for most of my cutting.
Vynikající!! Díky! But why are you don't produce more videos now in this time? I apologise for my selfishness in this regard. I am grateful for your videos immensely. Precision and talent.
Yeah, I agree, I just don’t see the benefit of any of it. Higher knife angle for tighter radius curves, that makes sense. When he cuts part 145, I’d use a hole punch - set it up carefully then one firm tap - job done. And with part 143 - I just find that excruciating to watch. Both of those, esp 143 - just use a small scissors.
Sorry nochmal, aber das Alu Lineal ist auch ein Witz. Absolut nicht standfest und hat auch keine rechtwinklige Anlagefläche. Schon mal ein Stahlmaß gesehen?
Sorry, da kann man ja echt nicht zusehen. So ein Schwachsinn. Ich baue seit 15 Jahren Präzisionsmodelle. Wenn ich alles so schneiden würde, hätte ich wahrscheinlich noch kein Modell fertig oder wäre vor Erschöpfung ins Skalpell gefallen. Die Hälfte kann man mit Schere schneiden, Rundes mit einem Kreisschneider - vorher auf das Mittenkreuz einen kleinen Punkt Sekundenkleber. Alles andere lässt sich prima Aussticheln, vorher grob Ausschneiden und 1mm stehen lassen. ... 😂 der Brüller ist das Messer Man, fertiges Teil umdrehen und einmal über die Matte schieben, fertig. Aber bitte, jeder nach seiner Methode. Nur... man kann es sich auch schwer machen.
Are you actually paying money for a paper model kit? You know, usually you can find a complete template online of the paper model you want to build. What I do after finding my model online (in this case it's the Star Trek USS Reliant, NCC-1864, from the 1982 movie Star Trek II -The Wrath Of Kahn). The templates I find are always super clean and crisp, as they are veector images used for the template. So, starting with page 1, I take a piece of thin paper to my laptop monitor, find my ruler with the cork back, along with my xacto knife, a sharpened pencil with the knife, use the ruler as a straight edge, and trace each template thoroughly and exactly as it appears on the screen. Sometimes I need to lift the paper to make sure I'm tracing the template exactly. Then, after one ofr two or 20 templates, I cut them out from the paper I used to trace them. After they're cut out exactly, I use regular Elmer's glue to glue the piece to a large piece of paper board, letting it dry, then cutting the pieces out again. What I would wind up with is a very labor intensive result, but it's free, I'm an artist and drawing is my thing, and figuring out how to put the damn thing together is always a challenge (sometimes there are assembly instructions, sometimes there aren't). After I draw every single detail exactly, and I mean EXACTLY as it appears in the panels, I'll use the dull edge of the xacto knife to trace the detail into the cardboard pieces. Then after assembling, I'll use the templates as a reference and mix acrylic paints to give it a full color paint job - that is, after I spray the entire model with a glossyy primer white. Doing it like this is a real bitch - tracing, cutting, gluing, cutting out each piece of paper board, painting the whole thing with primer white, oh... I forgot to mention - normally there are a shitload of detailed decals which must be painted very carefully by hand. Talk about the absolute best place to fuck it up, painting the decals - but they're easy to repair. So. I just thought I'd share with you the way I do it. I've only watched half of one of your videos, but if you actually read through all this I suppose I'm obligated to watch all of your videos. Thanky Sai!
In the past I've worked on various portions of the 1/48th scale Saturn V available from Lower Hudson Valley. This is a large model with the 1st stage measuring over 200mm in diameter just for the circular section. In order to get a reasonably true cylinder I found it best to cut a piece of heavy paper just slightly longer than the internal diameter. The outer skin takes 4 sheets of A4. These i joined with strips of tracing paper. When placing the inside sheet inside the skin it required the edges to be placed against each other. Then snapping the piece into shape. This imposed a tension on the outer skin that made it very circular. On another model l needed conic sections (fustrums) with a small diameter of 100mm and a base of 112mm. The best way i found to achieve this was machine a ring that matched the angle of the cone and slip that over the outside forcing it into a true shape. And then fitting an inner skin. This structure took 2 skin pieces. Each with multiple openings.
This is fantastic!! I have just subscribed to your videos. Thank you so very much for bringing this to us. I never had success with the few card stock models I built years ago. I have a model that I want to try now but want to learn about some of the techniques first. Also, the music that accompanies this video is very beautiful. Thank you again and best wishes.
Hello, my friend. I am writing from the translation. For example, if the value of c is low, does this indicate that we should add blue color? Also, what does k mean. Can you help?
It's a very beautyfull job. Your models are the best I've already seen in Internet so far. I specially like the engine cowls. They have a smooth transition between the segments. Do you have a special technique to shape them?
Thank you. I use set of modelling balls to shape parts in three dimensions. I do it on soft cardboard underneath. Here are some photos: papermodels.pl/thread-9568-post-144609.html#pid144609 You can buy these tools on Aliexpress: a.aliexpress.com/_vbBaOx
Dzień dobry. Wspaniała robota. Mam pytanie, gdzie można kupić taki stojak do oparcia modelu podczas pracy nad nim. Ja muszę używać resztki kartonu po butach...😁
Dzięki! Ja kupiłem stojak JH models w jadarhobby ale z tego co widzę są już niedostępne. Popytaj na fejsbukowych grupkach modelarzy plastikowych - widziałem tam swego czasu sporo ofert takich stojaczków w rozsądnej cenie :)
Omg.. i build cardboard models, but as im older, i dont put the level of detail into mine that i see here. My eyes are going, so tiny things, i just skip. This is insane! Id love to build this but itd never get it this good. Kudos!!!
Oh my God. I can't believe I actually sat through the entire 26-minute video, and I didn't even fast forward any of it! Luckily I had some paint that I could look at it as it dried every now and then whenever watching this guy cut a curve in slow slow slow slow motion became intolerable, so I was lucky to have that paint drying on the door jamb which I'm repairing today on my front porch as a much-needed distraction that I could point my eyes at now and then. Watching paint dry, now there's something to be said for that, but I'm not sure what it is yet...maybe I'll get back to everybody whatever I figure it out. After surviving the entire 26 minutes of that video, I think I should get a t-shirt that says I survived 26 minutes of a RU-vid video that was... oh screw it, I survived it and that's what's important! But since I'm pretty sure I'm not going to get that t-shirt, I feel like I'm entitled to make a suggestion or two here. FIRST... Cut faster, man! It's called speed cutting, and it's the way I cut my curves and straight lines - sometimes I don't even use a ruler! When I have cardboard to cut by God, I don't have time to do a dIilly dally around oh, you know? Sure, lots and lots of blood has been spilled this way because speed cutting cardboard is a dangerous job, and there's no two ways about it. But it ain't like you'll die from it. You'll just get blood all over everything! And when that happens, it sure is fun to take a wide-angle picture of it and put it up on Facebook estimation point kind of shocked the hell out of all of your more conservative friends. SECONDLY, and LASTLY... Don't ever. Ever ever ever. Ever ever ever ever ever ever ever. NEVER AGAIN, like never ever ever ever again ever, EVER AGAIN! Make a 26-minute video like this one where the chances of going insane halfway through it, or maybe as a nice little surprise right at the end, goes over 50%. Give us a fighting chance, for the love of God
Cardmodelling is not about speed. Time and effort that I put into cutting those parts pays off. Check my latest projects - Ryan Fireball or Nakajima "Kate". Also blood on finished model doesn't look good. That is the way I do it, so I shared my experience. If you can make those cuts faster and still manage to get great results - good for you. I'm jealous
Witam. Super film. Mam pytanie: czy na filmiku do mieszania kolorów używał pan temper firmy Astra czy tych co są w materiale czyli Maimeri. Pytam bo w jednym komentarzu napisał pan że używa Astry. Pozdrawiam.
Czystość klejenia, kształtowanie części, dobór retuszu - po prostu mistrzostwo! Wspaniały standard, którego pewnie nigdy nie osiągnę. Mam nadzieję, że będziesz dalej rozwijał kanał.
