I just fixed the car of my mother following this method! I had been several years without this screen! I struggled in the same steps as you did, but managed after a few minutes. If I could give you 10 thumbs up I would. Thanks a lot man! 😊
Hi, yes, the solder points must not touch their neighboring pins. That is known as 'bridging', and will basically short circuit the board when power is supplied as signals will be travelling over the bridge to places they shouldn't, then kaput.
Great guide, can't wait to try this myself! Though i have a question, can this method be applied on the "888" digital speedometer problem? Can't seem to find a video on how to fix it. A temporary fix is a big smack on the dash but it's only well...temporary. Cheers for the video!
If smacking the speedometer fixes the 888 display problem, then it sounds like it is the same sort of issue. I was hitting my stereo display for over a year, with it gradually needing to be hit more and more often, until I decided to fix it. The hitting works because it vibrates the loose/broken connection back into contact. Given the poor soldering on one display, the workmanship is likely the same on the speedo.
Thank you! That helped. But I did damaged some of the pins. Is it even possible to perfectly open those panels considering plastic is 18 years old 😆 I guess in that battle - metal clips VS plastic - the winner is obvious...
Thanks for sharing this tutorial. It was a great help. Instead of resoldering I used the heat gun method. Just be careful not to melt the plastic case. I probably only used the heat gun on high for about 20 seconds.
The digital Speedo on mine started flickering on and off. Then goes off all together for a while, then flickers again I've got it out and wiggling the wiring plug makes no difference Will it need same thing as this to fix so you know? Thanks
Thank you 👍 Took me two attempts as my soldering on the first made it a bit better but not perfect - second time round took minutes to get the clock out and using flux in the second go improved the whole process. Is perfect now thanks to your tutorial 😊
Thanks for sharing this - just fixed the display (well I removed and refitted and my son did the soldering) teamwork is dream work! Let’s hope it lasts as long as yours has! Really good step by step tutorial!
Anyone having trouble removing the clock unit from the dash, i found prising the left side off first was a lot easier than taking the right side out. I ended up pushing it back into place and tried this way and it come straight out 👍🏻
Great video thanks - finally fixed this problem today - been driving me nuts. I had to add solder to each pin to be sure of a good connection and the flux is key to getting the initial heat transfer.
Tried this today with my brother. First i used the multimeter to test the connections and some really hadn't continuity. He reheated the solder on the pins and some in the small mounts also. Tested every pin with the multimeter again, every one of those connections had continuity. Still isnt working, only shows vertical lines 😓
Hi, first thing I would check is that the connections that were reheated haven't accidently bridged with the connection next to it. Are the vertical lines where they should be showing, and no horizontal lines at all, or are all of the verticals showing regardless of what you expect to be displayed? Just trying to think what else might be causing the problem on your display.
@@takeitapartguy4670 hey there. The vertical lines appear where they should appear, so for example when I use the volume knob, it changes to "VOLUME [NUMBER]" and when it exits volume mode it changes again
Hi, thanks for clarifying. If the vertical lines are all there, but there are no horizontal lines at all, then logically that suggests the connection/mechanism for signaling and powering the vertical is working/connected correctly, but the the same process that does the horizontal lines, is not. If that is true then the horizontal and vertical must be controlled separately. I've no idea what the different connection pins are responsible for, but I would guess that there is one master pin for the horizontal lines, and your unit has a fault on that circuit. Really need a schematic for the board, that would make it clearer how it all works. I'm just a tinkerer, not an electrical engineer, so figuring it out without a schematic is beyond me... @@YZY_RAP
Good video guide. One thing I would add for anyone who isn't confident with using a soldering iron on such fine connections, you can achieve the same results using SOLDER GLUE applied with the end of a cocktail stick to each connection and the results will work just as well, but your chances of messing up the PCB are much lower.
Thank you! You saved me some money. I did what you showed in the clip in early August 2023. The display has now been in both very hot and very cold weather and it still working perfectly fine. I haven't seen the display faded out ever since. I am fairly amateur at soldering, so I can confirm that this is a fairly easy fix. The hardest part was getting that plastic cover that is above the display.
haha, well, that would be a good April fools day 'fix'. If it works, it works. Though this was audio, rather than speed display... I imagine not having a speed display would be an MOT fail in the UK.
Hi. there may well be other defects which result in the same issue. This one is identified as a loose connection/solder issue, as when it first starts showing signs of failure, you can 'fix' it by hitting it, or pushing certain parts of the screen. All that is doing is pushing the broken contacts closer again, thus temporarily 'fixing' the issue until vibrations for driving separate them again. You can test the integrity of the connection by using a multi-meter on continuity setting, that is how you can verify if the solder joints have a problem or not.
Awesome! I'm glad you were able to fix it. So satisfying when it works again and you haven't had to give a Honda garage your left kidney. @@belabertalan
Can you do a video showing how to change the background color for this display? I want mine to be blue with white words like the main display if possible. Thank you in advance!
I’m going to replace with another unit as my solder effort was rubbish. Do you know if it’s coded to that vehicle or can an eBay replacement just slot in? Thanks in advance
Thanks for the video, actually taking the speed-meter was somehow easy, i did exactly how you putted it and it came right off, hearing how you said it was a pain in the ass i was ready for the hassle haha. Did a pretty sloppy job with the solding but that annoying issue is resolved now. Honda fined me for 600 euros for the replacement, which i found ridiculous.
If you break clips you are doing it wrong and using too much force, there's a video on youtube where it's easier to use Lego pry tools to aid in the removal (they seem to give you a little more leverage than trim tools)
OMG! I need to do this, but just by watching your video my blood pressure was up in the sky and I wanted to scream. I will need serious sedative to start this. Those plastic clips... Anyway, awesome video! Thank you for taking your time to make it and share with us!
Thanks, did it on LHD model, worked like a charm. Though the speedo next to the display doesn't sit quite right anymore for some reason after reassembling.. oh well..
Just fixed my display. Watched also this video and followed the steps. The speed display back clip was hard. Couldn't understand how to get that off. Unfortunately that i broke.
It's the backlight on mine that's the issue. Whilst I've lost a few bits of the LCD display, I found that soldering didn't do anything to fix them. Guess I should multi-meter check each contact but other comments suggest the back light isn't directly related to the solder points.
This video convinced me to tackle this job. Thx for the information. Removing the panels can and will be incredibly frustrating. It took me 2(!!) hours to get them all off. Cruelly though, i managed to break one of the clips when putting everything back together 😀. The five pins furthest from the connector were very loose on mine but all pins got some extra soldering. Screen is working perfect again. Unfortunately there's now a loud rattle on bad surfaces which could be due to the broken clip.
hm, depending on which clip it is, I'd get some strong double-sided tape, or cram it full of blutak to stop the rattle. Come to think of it... breaking all the clips off and taping it all would make it much easier to take apart! Hopefully the repair will outlast the rest of the car. Got to be 5 or 6 years now since I filmed that, and display is still fine.
Hi, if the solder connect the pin you are soldering with the one next to it, the reflow and remove the solder. You can get something called 'solder wick', which is a copper mesh that flowing solder will get absorbed into. Or you can get this plastic button vacuum thing that sucks up extra solder. Whatever way, you do not want to reinstall the unit if you have bridged two pins that are not supposed to be connected. If unit won't work properly as you've changed the circuitry by bridging the pins. Best case, it just acts weird or blows a fuse, worst case something gets damaged. Either way, sort it out before reinstalling.
The problem I have is that the air conditioning is not reflected on the radio display, I checked all the connections and resolved the screen (the time and radio looks perfect) but when I turn on the A/C it works but it is not seen on the screen Do you know if there is an internal fuse or something... thanks for the video
No, you wouldn't be able to melt the pins down with a soldering iron anyway. It has been a while and I should have zoomed in on the video. If there are pins then they are probably coming from the back, going through some holes in the PCB and then the solder is connecting them together. The pins are supposed to be there.
@@takeitapartguy4670 yes i noticed from few other vids there was pins on everyones and i manage to sort it anyway after 4 hours of soldering and a headache lmao had to redo all the solder coz i burnt them.. 1st time using soldering iron but i got there in the end and radio display is fixed if i can do it anyone can
No secret, just wouldn't have had enough storage on my SD card for how long it took me to get the damn panel out. With my other half filming my incompetence, it was less stressful to turn it off until I got it.
I found the panel comes out easier by releasing/pulling on the left hand side first and then the right side after and remove from both ends once initially released from the two clips on each end. Releasing the right hand end first causes the left hand end to jam up. The way the clips are designed,the panel has to come out and refit parallel to the facia.
Great stuff, just got a 2010 mk8 and one digit is out at the min. I'll have a go when I get more time, busy with the boot leak(s) at the moment. 🤣 Many thanks for the video.
@@yamyam3905All sorted, thanks. It was the roof gutter ends just under the hatch, the last place I tried. The seam had cracked, cleaned and ran some clear silicone in and that cured it. Its been dry for the last 10 months since doing it.
