Hey If your still active I have a question about the 87 C10 LS Swap! Cammed, AC, Cruise Control install you made. Im installing an 06 5.3 and I cant figure out how to control the Air condition. How did you use the Factory controls. From what Ive read the old computer controlled the compressor. any help would be great my 1st LS swap. Johnny
Hello nice video I’m doing a e fans on my 2000 Silverado swap I have a blue and red cover on my computer I no blue is pink 42 and the red is pink 33 but on my red there is already a green wire there so what do I do now please help
This was my experience with installing Dorman electric fans, a Denso 32" radiator, and an AC Delco 145 Amp alternator, with the BP Harnesses (relays, fuses, etc.), AC upgrade kit and BP tuning of my PCU. This was on a 2000 Silverado 1500, Z71, with a tow package, and the 5.3 engine with 148,000 miles. The truck also had a new/rebuilt transmission, a Scan gauge device and a new clutch fan installed last year. Much of these installation procedures I learned from RU-vid videos, but BP also sends very clear instructions. After the total installation and completing a key/security relearn procedure for the PCU/computer, my truck started but was running roughly. I then learned from my HAYNES manual that there is also a relearning process for your PCU when you disconnect and/or remove the battery. You'd think I'd have already known this. That process is to run the engine at idle until the temperature comes up toward the normal running temp, then run the engine at 1500 rpm for two minutes, then drive at least 5 miles under normal conditions. While running the engine at home I turned on the AC and the fans immediately came on at low speed, and they would intermittently, briefly cycle off and then back on. While making the relearn drive I drove down the HWY approximately 20 miles at 65 mph and up one steep incline, then back through some stops and starts. On my Scan gauge I could see that, as normal, my engine was running from 190 to 195 degrees. And my transmission was at 170 to 175. My truck temp gage stayed where it always does, unless under a heavy down-shifted load, at the first line before 210. As I wrote previously, I know that my fans come on at low speed as soon as I turn on the AC. And BP programs the fans to come on at low speed at an engine temp of 216 on, 209 off. And High speed at 225 on, 217 off. So, I turned my AC off intermittently to see if the engine temperature would go up and it never changed. It makes me wonder how much that clutch fan was spinning and using horsepower, even when it was unloaded, when it wasn't even needed. Or maybe the bigger radiator is the difference. Today I made my first run further, pulling my 21' toy hauler trailer on the HWY at 65 miles an hour up several grades/hills. One reason I upgraded all of this, besides the little bit of extra horsepower, was that before this, when I would pull my trailer over this same route, my transmission would down shift, my engine would go to 4000 rpm and if stayed at 4000 for more than a few minutes my engine and transmission temps would sometimes hit 120 to 125. And I did not like the sound of my engine in that state. Today neither my engine nor transmission went over 110. And my engine sounded so much better without the clutch fan. Even idling it sounds better. To be factual, today I was not as loaded down as I would be for a long camping trip and the outside temperature was only 70 degrees. But there was a very noticeable difference in the amount of downshifting and the temperature rise. Also, I checked my battery voltage when first starting the truck the first time, with the new alternator. It was reading 12.7V not running and 14.7V running, as it should. Today while pulling my trailer, I turned on its running lights and the AC to try and get as much amperage load as possible. At no time did my voltage gauge drop at all. But, since my engine never went over 110, with the AC on and fans at low speed, my fans would not have ever needed to come on at high speed. That means that I still don't know if there will be a voltage drop when I am pulling a heavier load and both fans go to high speed. A few more notes on things I learned. I didn't know that the old fan shroud bolts would not work for the new fan assembly so, I had to go to the dealership to get two more of the radiator bolts. The BP instructions tell you that you should change the O-ring on the AC Schrader valve that the pressure switch you'll install goes on. I also got that at the dealership. The instructions didn't mention that when installing the pins into the PCU you'll need something sharp and no larger than the size of the pin to punch a hole through the weather seal of the ports that did not already have a wire in them. I used a Phillips screwdriver about the size you'd use for glasses. One other difference from the instructions I ran into was that where the new relay assembly mounts, next to the relay/fuse box, I had an extra connector mounted under where the new assembly was supposed to go. So, I had to make an extension for the bracket where your supposed to mount the relays and I was able to mount them about 2 inches higher, over that extra connector. The case fit over this with no issues.
So I have a 2003 silverado 1500hd. I currently did the electric fan swap. I took the fans and the harness from an 2005. Once installed I got a buddy to tune, and enable fans. Wiring - small green wire pinned in blue 42. Small blue wire pinned in 33 green. Power and ground connected...... Well what I'm recognizing is that only the passenger side come on high once a/c pressure build up and in the middle of me driving. It's weird because I let the truck sit and run and idle to see when fans cut on at what temp. Temp gets to 200-210 and fan never cuts on. Only when I'm driving for a while and I come to I stop I hear the fan. So I don't know when they actually come on. Does both fans suppose to cut on at low speeds??? Are both fans suppose to cut on at high speeds ??? When I ground the green from the fuse box both fans come on low. When I ground the blue one passenger side comes on high
I have the same harness. Bought it to replace my stock electric fan in my 05 z71. The harness is beautiful. The fuse block blew my mind. The way it was packed was crazy. In a box, inside another box filled with packing peanuts. Was extremely impressed
Quick question, why did you connect a positive wire in the back of the alternator? Can you just have connected to the battery or that little red battery box?
Can you verify the blue and green wires going to the ECU? My tuner said the blue wire should go to pin 42 and green to pin 33?? Read some forums and saw another RU-vid video and they had the pins setup different than BP auto as well.
If it is the same design as your old but higher amp, why would you need a new belt? They are stupid. Unless you got a different alternator from a different vehicle.
@@buddyrebel_Garcia Higher amp alternator is actually overall bigger. 2 part numbers are usually listed one for each alternator. I did the conversion and did use the part number for the 145 amp alternator, belt fit like it should.
Currently doing a 5.3 Swap with a 4l60e on my 1987 k10, going in through the factory harness hole like you did on your 87 video, how did you end up running all the wires?, can you make a quick video showing this? I’ve got cruise to wire as well.
You can do the tune before. I am in the process of getting this conversion done on my Hummer H2 and I had the tuner tune my ecu. He set the temps as follows: high speed fan at 212/209 low fan 205/198.
Did this on my 00 GMC and 02 Tahoe, a year ago. Good quality harness and tech support, if you need it. The high pressure switch upgrade is a MUST IMO here in the So. Ca. desert. I used the fans out of 08 Escalades 6.0 for both trucks, and I upgraded the radiator in my GMC to the wider one, it was leaking anyway.
Quick question. I did the exact modification as you, everything works as it should for high and low speed operations. However, I cannot figure out why the high speed fan will not engage at the ac psi threshold. Any thoughts?
What crossmember did you use for the transmission? Just looking to do a full 6.0 with the 4l80e trans any way I can get in touch to ask more questions that’d be helpful. Thank you!
Hello sir, do you work for Truck Stop DFW? I see that location tagged in some of your videos. Or independent? Do you have an Instagram or Facebook where I could follow your builds? Interested in LS swapping an ‘88 K5 and would like to talk about it with you a little. Thanks for your time. Apologies for commenting on an old video-the others show comments off.
I watched your video over a year ago. Just wondering, how is it working so far? Are you very pleased with it? If you had to do these conversation all over again on a different truck would you do the same? Please let me know. Thanks, Great Video
That harness cost more then a holley terminator x kit nowadays.. and you still need a ecm, HP tuner and "credits" to unlock it.. I like BP's products but they are simply to expensive for the majority of "swappers" out here. I like to refer to these as " the foose building harnesses " haha.
There is no doubt it’s an expensive harness but the quality reflects the price. I’m a fan of both options and they both have there place. This truck with wanting to retain the factory style cruise control with the dbw was the biggest reason we went with the factory ecu and bo harness. Plus the DBW option if the terminator is 1600 bucks and we’re only about 700 into the BP harness and stock ecu.
