Repair and set up of guitars and drums, with a bit of humor mixed in. DIY Studio and Workshop featuring anything that may come my way, including recording, artwork, drum clocks, Studio equipment and random things that might happen.
Nothing ever "just fits right in." Especially with a Gibson or Epiphone. But it looks like it might make a nice guitar - one of these days... I have two '60s vintage Gibson SGs - they've never been easy to live with. But I will say - both have P90s, and I wouldn't have it any other way. Both left the factory with P90s, but one (a Junior) had been modified by the time I got it, and had a humbucker in it. I used it like that for a long time, but finally had to put a P90 back in. My retrofit is not cosmetically pretty to the trained eye (or any eye that takes a careful look), but it sounds so much better now - to my ears, anyway. So my $0.02 worth ==> it might not be cosmetically perfect, but it will sound better with P90s. My other recommendation would be to use 250K pots with the P90s. But hey, what do I know?
Dan , you’re my new favorite Utube guitar dude !! Kinda remind me of my other favorite Dave’s World of fun stuff !!! Good humored straight up old school stud !!! Love it !!! 😎
Hi, why did you disassemble the whole bass? I think the fret job and polsih could have been done with the neck on. I would even leave the bridge. I have the same bass and the toggle switch made problems, so i reconnected it
414 is made in Indonesia for what i know. Its written in the label backside of the body behing bridge. I have the red burst coloured one. Like it a lot. Though that orange colour would be more awesome.
I see the shim in my Ovation and just tried to extract it, but it seemed like one side was connected by a small wire? I felt I’d have to force it out, or snap something. Any words of encouragement?
Ah, yes, the single-action truss rod, the speed bump in my own Starcaster project! I picked up mine from a Goodwill where it was sitting with no strings on it. I eyeballed down the neck to see if there was any twist, which checked out fine, and the relief seemed ALMOST flat to me. I figured, "Even if there's a little backbow, the truss rod will help correct it..." And of course it turns out it's a single-action truss, so there was no help to be had there! To make things worse, not only was it kept without string tension for so long, but also the truss rod was still engaged to help it stay in a slight backbow! Given the girthy dimensions of the neck, my eventual solution was to put heavier gauge strings on, tune it UP +4 semitones ("G# Standard" tuning?) for extra tension, and leave it on top of the cabinet in the bathroom for a month where it could soak up all that lovely steam. Eventually it got the board to at least a flat plane unstrung such that a set of 9's was enough tension to keep a slight bow in it. Plays well, currently! The fret job from the factory was actually pretty good.
@@dansstudioworkshop Haha, cool! I put a cheap Amazon pickguard with dual rails on mine to play with some new sounds, with coil split switches and a 7-way mod. Loving the 15" radius fingerboard!
Haha, currently working on a Starcaster myself, so I know the surprises they bring! Mine has a maple fingerboard, but it's a cap -- there's no skunk stripe on the back! Apparently they'd made them with whatever extra parts they had around the factory floor at any given time, so specs would vary wildly between runs.
Very cool! Now what if there are no shims and still too high at 16th fret? Ideal at the nut. USA made standard Balladeer shallow bowl with standard sound hole.
I got the arrow head starcaster neck but I stuck it on some cheap fake fender body and it didn't fit that well, I wonder if I can buy any star caster if it will fit right.
I just discovered the shim thing and adjusted my already good playing 1612 Ovation. Wow what a difference the adjustment made. LOVING IT EVEN MORE NOW!
