Great video. It was very helpful. I have one wled strip working by following what you did in your 1st video. How would I add multiple wled strips but control them each separately or make them each do separate lighting patterns, etc....not necessarily at the same time? Can I control all of that from the wled interface/software and just name each wled strip with a different name? Do I need multiple instances of wled open for each lighting strip? Hopefully that makes sense. Thank you!
I am new to HA with no hubs since all my devices are Wi-Fi and working well. I see that as I get into HA, I want motion sensors like the Everything One. I have no hub, so thanks for this video. I will get me a SkyConnect. I am still very new, so I think this is a perfect match for me.
Aqara is my biggest mistake. I have a bunch on windows and doors and humidity sensors for my bathrooms to auto turn on fan when shower is on and other things. Native zigbee, they stop reporting after 2 days. Everyone suggested to move to Zigbee2mqtt, and that works better. But after a few weeks they all stop working. And on reddit and HA forums, so many people have this same issue because they don't follow zibgee protocol and are not certified.
That's an old version. Now the LED is the full height and it is 7 LED that you can change any single LED color or on off or all, or make any pattern you want for any notifications.
I would not suggest upgrading WLED on a DigUNO via home assistant, with or without sound reactivity. If you don't use the QuinLED custom compiled versions of WLED, you will get some very strange behaviour. Some effects won't use all the LEDs, yet others will. Turning off the LEDs might leave a single LED lit. Some effects will use different colours than those selected, but only for a portion of the LEDs.
Great video! Have been wanting to try some things with WLED for a while now. What would really add to the video though would be a table at the end with all the pros and cons of each controller in one overview (adding each controller when you're talking about it). Now I have to listen to what you're saying, make a mental table in my mind or rewind and write things down. A picture (table in this case) would help a lot. Think columns like 5V, 12V, 24V, # of terminals, fuse y/n, (approx) price, size, beginner/advanced user, case included y/n, etc. Looking forward to the sequel!
Rather than going with another mesh only system, I would personally recommend TP-Link Omada. They have firewalls, switches, and access points that are all prosumer/SMB grade that can either be configured and managed independently, or setup with a software/hardware SDN controller. As a bonus the equipment is all very nice looking and I cannot overstate how fantastic built in Wireguard is since having set that up with all of my devices.
Hello! I had a question; how did you get your notification bar on your pixel phone to be the same color as your dashboard. I have a light themed dashboard and the screen bar around my camera is just solid black. Thanks!
Are there any controllers that don’t need the neutral and hot? I’m independently powering all of my LED strips and don’t need passthrough power from the WLED device. I just want to connect them all via data cables.
@@makeitworktech sorry, it turns out I was referring to power injection. I just want to bring data back from each strip to the WLED device. The WLED device will have its own power and the strip will also have its own power. I’m roughing in a space with vaulted ceilings. I’m going to pass 3 low voltage cables to each strip from the media cabinet. Two of those low voltage cables will be for +/-, the other for data. Data cables will go to WLED device. The +/- will go to a 24V DC power supply. The power supply will be connected to an outlet inside the media cabinet that is controlled by a normal light switch. Hopefully I’m speaking sense here. Everything should be completely hidden. Strips will shine line up the vaulted ceiling “creating” more height in the room
After switching to the new M3 hub, I couldn't re-bind the T1M. The T1M Light says turn the light on/off 5 times. I wasn't thinking to do it RAPIDLY. That was my issue. This might help someone else.
thank you for the tutorial, it's awesome, but i have a problem to hide the border of the mini graph. i have tried a lot of time to remake the process and the border of minigraph always remains. how can i solve it? thanks
Great build! I'd recommend NOT using pass through (pass-thru) RJ45 connectors especially with PoE they can void your warrenty. I like the 2 piece style RJ45 connectors the loading bar keeps the strands organized but doesn't leave copper ends exposed.
Great guide. I really like the limptech ones. I have three of them and they work solid. They have a very good range which works in larger rooms. Thanks for the info
Do you think you could add YoLink (LoRa) devices to your tests in the future? That tech looks really interesting. I’m on the fence about LoRa vs these other protocols.
My Wiz lights are a nightmare for connectivity. I bought about a dozen and they have almost all glitched out and cannot connect to WiFi anymore. They also flicker when turned on for the about 5 minutes.anyone else have issues with them? They can’t even enter/stay in pairing mode anymore after switching the lights on/off 3 times… also there is no hard reset for the bulbs in the app, so even if I could connect to them, I can’t reset them. 😂
I have a soft spot for Athom since they got me into this WLED hobby. However the main issue I have is that they frequently drop the WiFi connection. So I tried QuinLED DigUnos. I set up heartbeat uptime monitors. Multiple Athom units had the same WiFi drops while the DigUnos were rock solid. Since then I hsve become a huge fan of QuinLED’s line up. I do agree with your comments that DigUno is a bit more DIY than a basic model. For a basic model the DigToGo is amazing. As long as you are ok with 5V (I generally prefer 24V) then built in sound reactive and the convenience of USB power is great. Then is it nice that you can move up in the line to DigQuad or Octa, which I used to power large xLights Xmas lightshows. The only gap in the range is for analog where I use Shelly RGBW2, and QuinLED will soon have a product for that.
Great presentation skills .. nice pace. Love the swipe card and your overall UI. Do you sense presence in front of the table to wake the screen? if so, how?
If i had to chose between an RJ12 jack or an Esp32 it will be Esp32 any time of the day. I can wire any button or device to the headers already present. Also is that glass fuse held in plca by a ty wrap, that would be difficult to replace when mounted on something and why, design failure ?
