I'm all about anything with an engine! Known for breaking things! You'll find how-to videos, build updates, things breaking, and possibly even a burnout!
I learned to wire/stiff plastic brush all the dirt off of around the joint where valley cover and cylinder head meet so stuff doesnt get put into the oil and coolant areas when head is removed. Vacuum it after brushing
What front axles do you have on it? Doesn't not look like the original axle and wheels. I had one that I had to replace the kingpins every couple years. They would just tighten up and make it impossible to steer. Also I know I didn't have a strut for smooth ride on it.
Good question! It really depends on how thick you build it. Clear coat is normally sprayed in several quotes, so I'd say put at least two coats of this on. I've had mine outside in harsh, cold weather, and blistering heat... I haven't seen any peeling or fading at all!
Gorgeous! Getting ready to paint my 67 El Camino in the same Marina Blue. Can you share what base coat you used please. I'm having a tough time deciding who to go with. Thanks!
thank you for the video, i ordered one of these and it came with "no directions". i've decided to connect the oil pressure to the spot where the factory oil pressure sensor is next to the distributor (1977 dodge b100) because with the dog house off everything is right there. again, thanks for the video
Looking and sounding AWSOME! Seems to sound like it needs a little more tweaking to not bog! Maybe it was my ears! Sweet truck I have decided to keep my 431 stroker with 373 posi gears and my C-6. It's all original except for the engine and trans mods and it's a 250 truck! Drive it everywhere and have loved it for so many years. My 69 Crew cab May be a different story.nice to happen across your Channel and Say congrats! My Harley is taking my interest now that spring has sprung. Too many toys. Ot enough days! Regards
Can you explain the single RCA hook up? I thought you had to have three sets of RCA's for it to function/sound correct. This would be a great set up in my 69 AMX
Fantastic job! Ignore the ignorant haters out there who think that a perfect showroom finish is the only way to go. Your truck looks amazing and I think is far cooler because you're maintaining the beautiful unique patina that honors the truck's history. I plan on doing exactly the same thing with my old truck, and I am glad that you are one who has already tried the linseed oil method, because I was wondering if I should go that route (because it would cost less in the short term). Now after watching your video, I'm happy and 100% confident that the wipe-on clearcoat is the solution that I will like best. You really helped me out. Thank you! 👍👍 Oh, and that was great idea and job you did making the F100 emblem in the bed as an access door for your fuel hardware. That's genius move bud. Well done.
@@JakeHarrington - yes, you are right. That trans needs a controller. I’m gonna run a 99 Explorer 5.0L and a AOD trans. BUT, I do have another project that will be a ‘71 F100 body swapped on the entire CV frame and drive train. I plan just keep the CV controller for that one, but maybe someday go Term X on it as well. I’ll need the Max if I do that just like you. Thanks!
@@JakeHarrington - The CV I obtained is also a 2006 model for my body swap project. Yours had much less mikes though. I think mine had 130k on it. Really nice shape car always in Texas.
Heck yeah! Good info, was gonna ask, I didn't get the full floor pan just left and right full sides for a 4 door 56 wagon. My question would is, do I need to brace it if I need to do the toe boards, and inner and outer rockers? I only have the passenger side cut out right now only, should I do one side at a time or do both sides at the same time?
I'm putting this system in my mini truck. And I'm making a few other modifications. But you helped clarify so questions I had about keyless entry system.
Love the project truck man... An added star from me for it being manual stick shift... One thing though on the fan temp probe... The part that is sticking out of the radiator, you should cover that part up w/some sort of plastic cap or a small piece of sticky flex tape... You'll figure it out though... Keep on truckin... 👍✌️😎
I had a 66 Mustang like this years ago . It was however ,the late 70's when you could still find Mustangs in wreaking yards for parts . The rust on my Mustang was mainly in the back where the rear end attached. I am trying to remember what I did with the car. I think I traded it for some magic beans! LOL.
Can you use a chemical paint stripper? Or have it bead blasted? Seems it would same a great deal of time and elbow grease. I'm curious if you have considered the aforementioned?
You could use stripper, but since it's fiberglass you have to be very careful. Fiberglass will absorb the chemical stripper and can cause issues down the road. That's why I use sanders. Harder work, but we'll worth it in the end!
@dukeman7595 it's just an extra precaution! I get paranoid about things. If you gave it tons of time to dry, before proceeding with body work, it may not be as bad.
You did a fantastic job! The 67 big blocks with the stinger hood is my favorite C version. I owned a new 70 big block coupe and a 85 Z51 and loved them both. You made this 75 year old guys day.
I applaud you with your first attempt. Having done upholstery years ago. One pointer is having exact measurements of the seat and backrest. The old covers had stretched with years of use. It’s a learning process. Overall you accomplished what you set out to do. I’m interested in what type of needle and thread you used. Most home machines can handle a leather needle and heavy duty thread for strength. Again, hats off to you for going for it ! 👍🏻
