@MarekVacek I saw the new model has special cover for upper layer of the compost. May be if you add it, could help. Anyway, thank you for the video, I'm really infected with this idea to have same thing 😁
Yeah, that would be too sketchy without it. You're down there wrenching on rusty bolts, rocking the whole thing. Idealy the strap should be integral part of the lift, so nobody gets the idea of using it without. But, in true Chinese safety fashion, it comes as this.
Great video! 👍 I have a Stiga Estate lawn tractor too that i need to sharpen the blades on, my lawn tractor are from 2022 but the deck looks the same. Nice thing to know about that the threads are different and that the blades turn in different directions. This video helped me more than i was expecting!
@@MarekVacek No i hasn't sharped my blades yet. I need to order a lift like this one that you have first become it looks so easy to do it with this lift.
@@MarekVacek Ok thank you! I will look out for them😊 By the way, have you tried to mulch the grass with the knifes you're using on your Stiga in this video?
Hi Marek! I’m about to build my own Sauna on a concrete base in the uk and was wondering how you have managed without a drain. I keep being told I need one and was wondering how it has been for you.
I don't have it and it's fine. Even when pouring water over the heater, it's not that bad. The little water that ends up on the floor will dry out. Don't worry about it.
Hey Marek, another question if you don’t mind. What kind of and thickness of glass did you order for the window? Not sure what to ask for. Jason, Wales
@@Jason-rk4xc it's double glazed. So two times 4mm if I recall corectly. I order it tempered for safety (if it breaks it will shatter). I had it tinted to same shade as the door, which I bought ready-made.
That will depend greatly on the country you're buying this from. For UK, you can get it from here for instance www.amazon.co.uk/Velleman-175359-Tractor-Mower-Hoist/dp/B00H83I3B0?&linkCode=sl1&tag=&linkId=94a3cd097f75e0f7bab7e58447752551&language=en_GB&ref_=as_li_ss_tl
I have the same box but my worms always escape at night and i have 20+ dead worms in my kitchen.... i have a thick matt come with my box with i put on the bottom of the bottom box and i also had tried putting it on the top, but they still escape every day. Do I have to put a light source to my box or is there something else? Its also not to warm in my apartment. I appreciate any help!
Dobrý den Marku. Děkuji za video. Mám stejný vermikompostér ale v hnědé barvě. Koupila jsem ho začátkem dubna. Jelikož je hnědý tak je při otevření viditelně obsypán na bocí těmi bílými broučky. Mně se jejich množství ale zdá dost velké, je to v pořádku? Také mám pocit, že žížaly skoro nejí. Všude čtu jak je krmí 1x za týden, ale mně přijde, že mají stále stejné množství nezpracovaných zbytků. Kontrolovala jsem zda žijí a jsou ok. Vaše video mě teď překvapilo tím kolik zbytků jste neustále přidával. Jsem tedy teď nalomená zda prostě zbytky pravidelně přidávat bez ohledu zda vidím zda ty předchozí byly zpracovány. Nějak se mi to vermikompostování nedaří. Mimochodem - také jsem začínala s tím, že jsem ho měla venku, ale žížaly utíkaly. Teď jak je v interiéru je klid. Díky za rady.
Co se týče rychlosti zpracování, tak to bude asi především počtem žížal. Ta žížala žije překvapivě dlouho, až několik let, takže u vás teď ze začátku bude jejich množství pořád přibývat a s tím i jejich spotřeba "jídla". Já to tam sypu i když to minulé ještě není zpracováno. Občas je tam třeba i nějaká plíseň, ale naučil jsem se to moc neřešit a ty žížaly si s tím vždy nějak poradily. Ti bílí broučci se objevují a pak zase mizí, je to prostě jakási sezónní "havěť".
Soooo, this a bit tricky one to answer: LED strips are designed to run up to about 60°C (140F). On the internet people will argue that they become damaged over 100°C (210F). So, if you go by the manual, they are surely to fail, right? Now, that we have this out of the way I will tell you this: I run a regular RGBW LED strip in a chunky aluminium profile and it's fine (more than 4 years now). I spoke to professional sauna installers and they told me they run basic LED strips in commercial saunas and they are fine as well. The special IP68 or whatever high temp strips are just not worth the hassle or the cost. If the LEDs fail somewhere down the line, it will be cheaper to replace than the special ones.
Hi Marek, perfect work and I hope you are still happy with your sauna? How often do you use it? I have a question about the insulation. Why did you decide to use mineral wool with aluminum foil and not wood fiber insulation? Wouldn't that be a better solution against mold for an outdoor sauna?
Hello, it's been about 4 years and all is well. I don't use it all that often, as it's in my holiday house. Maybe 20-30 times a year. Wood fiber was simply not known to me at the time, so that's why. Around here mineral wool is "the" insulation that everybody uses, so that's what I was told by guys building saunas professionally. I think wood fiber will do you the same service.
cool idea with the vac , my fence has a different set up to yours but is the same machine , no adjustment screw so im bambozled at the moment to get it square , i need to find a way to collect the chips with the shop vac
This is perfect, this is literally what I needed that explained the inner details of what I wanted to know when building a sauna. Thank you. One question - how many people can it seat? looks like 3?
Dobrý den, tak to mám radost. Ceny: - Kamna + kameny + ovládací jednotka 35 000 - Dřevo Finský smrk kartáčovaný thermowood na obklad 22 000 - Dřevo Olše na lavice 9 000 - Vše ostatní cca 20 000 ...ale ceny to jsou z roku 2018, takže všechno už bude trochu jinde. Nakoupil jsem to vše v Brně u finskesauny.cz
It is not worm tea it is leachate. Leachate is anaerobic and is mostly bad. Real compost tea aerobic is made with finished compost and most require an air pump or some method to get constant air in like mixing with a stick. Compost tea must be used immediately after air flow stops.
2 месяца назад
Found this: "Worm tea is a light amber liquid that comes from the worm farm, it is aerobic and has been through the gut of healthy worms. Leachate is a dark, sometimes foul smelling liquid that has not been through the gut of healthy worms and so contains bacteria that is not safe." So I guess it would depend of the balance in the worm farm, so it's not rotting food scraps that are causing the liquid?
This machine is a piece of crap. The motor is overheating (turns off in couple of minutes), parts are not straight, the wall cannot be adjusted perfectly to 90 degrees. And I put it together from 5 different machines to get with it somewhere.
You said, you can put the worms into the bucket where they will dry out and die. Why would that happen? Why wouldn't you take the worms with the compost into the garden soil? Your garden soil needs worms too. Is this a special species of worms that will die in the garden, that's only designed for the vermicomposting?
Thank you for your building sauna quide video. Can I ask about ventilation pipe? What diameter was 6--7cm and is always open (grid protecred)? I have a ~5,5cm diameter vacuum cleaner pipe, it will be ok? After 2 years of using your sauna it is enaugh for ventilation? Did you make a ventilation hole in the top of sauna? It would help me a lot if you could answer, I'm in construction right now, ~same dimensions with 9kw heater, thanks.
Your sauna looks great! Thanks for all the great info. I've taken a bunch of notes, just from this video, to try to come up with a coherent plan for my own build. I don't think I've seen anybody else put foil on the exterior too. What was your rationale for that? A couple things that I've seen other builders do that you didn't: 1. cement board or brick behind the heater. 2. drain in the floor and sloped floor under the wooden tiles. 3. slats between the interior foil and the interior wood to allow moisture to drain. 4. drip edge to channel moisture from behind the interior wood onto concrete floor. Did you consider any of those possibilities, and if so, what were your reasons for choosing not to?
Thx for the compliments. ad. foil on the outside There were month between putting the insulation in and me getting to cladding on, so that was just a temporary "anti-rain" measure. ad. cement boards around the heater You don't need it. All the heaters are designed with wood cladding in mind. ad. drain It's not necessary, the amount of water that ends up on the floor, will just dry out. ad. slats/gap between cladding and foil That's the number one complaint in the comments. However I reviewed several technical drawings from several sources and truth is that most sources do not include this gap. So I would put this in the category "nice to have, but not necessary". ad. drip edge You could definitely do that, but I wouldn't sweat it. The odd drop here and there isn't enought to cause issues. You have to realize that even if you pour water on the heater it actually isn't all that humid inside the sauna. I have a gauge on the wall and once you heat up the sauna the moisture level goes down rapidly and it never gets too high during operation, even when you go crazy with the "steam hits". People imagine crazy levels of condensation in sauna, but in my experience it's surprisingly not the case. I don't seem to find any noticable condensation points anywhere.
Thanks for the answers! For the slats, drip edge and drain, perhaps that is only required if you also use the sauna for showering. My Vanaema's indoor sauna was like that (it must have also had a drain.) For off-grid sauna's, I've seen wooden sauna heaters with a water repository specifically designed to facilitate bathing, so I guess if you bought one of those, then you'd also have to think about drainage.
Is 2cm of insulation wool enough in your opinion? (This type of wool should be allegedly valid for up to 1000 degrees, according to the manufacturer 😄). I noticed you used 5cm and 10cm (or 20?), but you also said you don't have to use this much. Moreover, must all sides be covered with OSB before you put the insulation? What if it's a brick/concrete wall, can the insulation still be placed (without putting the OSB's)? What do you think?
- Insulation can be placed on a brick wall, no need for OSB. For me it is there for structural reasons. - If 2cm is "enough" depends greatly on your situation. Let's start with a simple thought experiment: can a sauna be built without any insulation? Sure it can, it will only take more energy to heat up and then also to maintain that heat. If you have a choice, I think 5-10cm is a better choice (especially for the ceiling, remember, heat is lost mostly in the upper parts of a room). If you're restricted by dimentions and you need every cm, than 2 cm can be done, you'll just pay a bit more for electricity (how much more is a matter of your situation, it may be negligible). - as for the temperature rating of the wool. Don't sweat it, you can use the basic stuff. Sauna doesn't go over 110-120°C and that's not a problem for even the most basic wool.
@@MarekVacek I know you didn't do it yourself, but do you have any tips on how to leave 1-2cm clearance between the insulation and the foil? I can't think of anything. It is much easier to place the foil on top of the insulation, although a lot of people claim we should always leave some space between the two.
@@gablan1468 Nono, you understood it wrong. The gap is not "under" the foil, it's on top of it. So do everything as I do including the foil, then add wood strips on top of the foil, and then add the cladding. This image shows this step done quite clearly imgur.com/k2dnotY
@MarekVacek As far as I understood - the gap will be between the foil and the cladding, correct? Can any kind of wood strips be used, or must they be made from cedar, etc? Thanks. I'm really forward to making it happen.
@@gablan1468 Any "wood strips" can be used. But some will get darker, as you use the sauna, some will leak a lot of resin as you use tha sauna. So the best cladding is dense (heavy) and with lowest resin content as possible.
Wish I had watched that before I built mine. I made it out of Siberian larch. All the boards shrank. Many happy hours punching out the nails to move the boards. When I rebuilt it I used tongue tite screws which bury themselves in the wood. Wish I had done that in the first place even if the boards had not shrank. It makes it possible to modify things. I recently upgraded the sound system and used salt block panels for the lights. The only thing I dont like about that one is the boxed in seats. To complicated to keep clean.
Just replaced my sauna’s paneling and the boards last weekend. My sauna is small as it is in a Finnish duplex at only 1,5 m by 1,5 m, but I would add a few things for someone else building their sauna: -Remember to add wood on top of the aluminium foil. That way you create a space between the aluminium and the paneling so it can dry from behind the paneling. -Use the same parafin oil as used on the boards for the paneling to extend their life. As an option, if you don’t want to deepen the colour or want the color to be something else, there is this Supi Saunavaha (saunawax) from Tikkurila that is sold in a few colors and can be dyed to many other, atleast in Finland. I used saunawax on the paneling and parafin oil on the boards to create a nice color change. - I noticed that the top boards had a quite high difference to the bottom boards. In Finland, we use 40 cm from the top boards to bottom boards as a guide so people of many heights can go to sauna comfortably. Great video, nevertheless. I enjoyed it and it is very comprehensive. I’m sure there isn’t so much information about sauna building outside of Finland and in other languages so you did well. Have a great day and hyviä löylyjä!
I am thinking of building avsauna as well, but in nature with wood heated stove. Is the isolation really needed? And wont the aluminium layer cause the moist condensation in the wood? I've heard Finns say the crappier (more holes, slits etc), the better.
