We are Tony and Denise Gaetz. Our small family farm is in the Willamette Valley of Oregon. On our Farm we use no till(no Dig) & biological farming methods. This means we strive to build soil health through feeding the soil biology ultimately creating healthy plants and a more healthy us. We raise much of our own food and also include many flowers for their beauty and our own joy!
The purpose of our channel is to show not only useful techniques that we use for growing and preserving the Harvest, but to also share our personal journey in health & homestead. Thanks for joining us!
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Now i understand why Kenyans use coal dust instead of compost. Fine particle size, and maximum hydrocarbon load to provide a little boost for the seedlings when they sprout. Easy to automate due to consistency. Great work!! Coal dust is probably not the way to go for yearly work, but for revegetation of spoiled land it makes sense.
What is it supposed to do though? And why align to earth's magnetic field? I mean the earth's magnetic field is static and therefore will not cause any induction in the wire whatsoever? You only have a chance in the electrical field when there is a change in the magnetic field. You don't have that here. It doesn't make any sense. And even if it did what is a magnetic field or electricity supposed to do to a plant?
This is a great video, I do just want to leave a note that this is not directly from the Cho teachings. It’s from Drake KNF and the knowledge there is great, just not full and critical credit to theses inputs and creations I believe are due.. also though I don’t want us to all fight we’re on the same team. Just keep it in mind is all.. It is a modified version however I’m sure it has its usage, originally there is no FFJ/FPJ it’s base is sea water with airborne microbes, and LAB. It’s recommended to use OHN for a better efficiency. You can add WCA/WCP depending on reproductive/ripening (WCP isn’t recommended as part of it persay however it’s a growth stage setting.
3:16 these are even different ratios then what’s been proven to be the best range. Can I ask were you got you information or if this is a hybrid approach? There still older teachers and teachings I’ve missed I’m always trying to learn and have a full grasp of what’s going on.
I can never seem to get it sharp enough. I peen it using a jig well. I use a stone. It looks sharp but doesn't cut grass. I don't think the peening jig isn't lengthing the blade out enough.
Thank you for the calm and erudite presentation, much appreciated. Two questions for you, firstly, can I use Molasses instead of brown sugar and would it still be a 1:1 ratio or would the ratio change? Secondly, when diluting LAB with water (I have a natural mountain water source, so no nasty added chemicals like city water) is it a 1:1000 Ratio for both foliar spray and soil drench and is it the same for both refrigerated LAB without sugar, and room temperature super saturated LAB? Thank you in advance for your response and input. Lee
Thank you for your tutorial. In the UK we don't have molasses easily available (a small jar costs a bomb). I've heard brown sugar isn't ideal, especially if there's chloramine in your water (like we have in London). How much lab solution do you add to your plants water?
If the green mold is on the top or near the top of the curd that's forming your LAB will be fine. Small spots here and there will really have no impact on the LAB serum which is underneath. However I would dispose of the curd once you're finished by running it through your compost pile or a bokashi bucket.
We have those weeds in North Central Texas in the spring… I hate that stuff!… I think I’ve about convinced myself to buy a scythe. Pretty cool old school tool!
We have been using eucalyptus but others have found success with sunchokes or Jerusalem artichokes particularly the roots. But the best key against aphids is making the JADAM Wetting Agent, which is liquid soap made from potassium hydroxide and an oil like canola. We have found using just the wetting agent to be very successful.
@@BareMtnFarm thanks!! I already ordered the products to make JWA. But I wish to make JHS with something. Maybe I'll buy eucalyptus extract and test for prevention weekly. Thanks!! (I'm from Brazil, the only plant here from jadam book is OLEANDER, have you tried?)
They did come back The following season. But they tended to be weaker and we lost a significant number of plants. This bed was really only viable for about two seasons, by the third season most of the plants had died. I think it was more related to how wet our Winters are and they just really didn't thrive in an open field environment.
I tried this this year and it's much more work than using a trellis meeting and just clipping the tomatoes on the trellis. I think the hardest part is that i have a lot of varieties and they grow at different rates so weaving them all at the same time just doesn't work well. Some get the get tall while others are still getting there.
You raise an important point about having consistent varieties that grow essentially the same height at roughly the same time. I should have mentioned that is an important point in the video. If you have different varieties that are slow growers with fast growers this method definitely is not as good as using some form of trellis or netting. Thanks for your comment I appreciate you watching.
The celery plants were all started from seed. We used our own compost potting soil and six packs. Once the seedlings got to a point where they had true leaves we then transplanted into the garden.
The bulbs in the biochar/ Hugelculture bed probably on average for about 20% heavier or bigger than the district compost bed. I was really surprised at the difference. I think a lot of it had to do with water retention the biochar bed really had more available water moisture when the bulbs were gaining size. I irrigated both but it seemed like I was needing to put more water on the just straight compost bed. Anyway this is all anecdotal but it it was interesting to see we had larger Greener tops and bigger bulbs in the biochar bed.
This video helped me fix my injector system. I was able to see your working setup and realized I was messing with the wrong ball valve. My system sucks now!😆
Great video. This is the only video i saw that walk through what to do when you order a cutting. Love it. Looking forward for the 2nd part when they go to the ground. Its cooll too that she asked how long it takes to transplant. Good pointer for new gardeners. 😊
so I ended up with lots of these in a wildflower mix in zone 3 Canada the first year they grew with no flowers. they seemed to stay alive overwinter here could see the green. I had no idea what the plant was until today after noticing the start of the green flowers. Excited to see them bloom! not sure what they will do next year!
So Sweet William, the old fashioned varieties, are true biennials. If they've gone to see the plants that have a chance to grow to decent size in one season will bloom in the next season. If they're planted too late and they don't get very big they may not bloom until almost a third season. This all assumes though they can survive a rough winter.
Thanks I enjoy this type of content. I pick off little gems of knowledge to employ on my small garden; it’s like finding a new shorter path to the fishing hole. Ya. Nice to see informally just what’s going on. Press on ! Best, TG
Could you do a step by step ideo showing how to make the Seed Enhancing solution? I couldn't find one on your channel showing the full process. This ideo just shows the two solutions already made and the rice inear. Not sure how you made the tincture or the other stuff; how much of each ingredient.
You're right I haven't made a video specifically showing how to make OHN. Nor have I done one specifically showing how to put the solution together. If you need the answer quickly I recommend finding Chris Trump channel on RU-vid. He goes into depth on how to make the Oriental herb nutrient called ohn and what the right ratios are for the seed soaking solution. His videos are really detailed towards how to make these basic solutions. I want to thank you for watching and thanks for the question.
Great comment. I do need to clarify this. We used no male bovine excrement in making these fertilizers. They're made from grasses, weeds, and crop residues, biochar, leaf mold, and water only. No animal waste involved. I want to thank you for watching,
I know I'm a bit late to the party, but I tried to make LAB like you showed it. I'm currently in the milk phase day 5 . Since 3 days it's just smelling like rotten milk, the separation is "milky water" on top everything else on the bottom and a thin film on the surface... I used milk with a fat content of 1,5% and wasnt expecting much "cheese" but you mention no odor and thats throwing me off a bit now. Is it time to call it a fail and try again?
Apologize for this response being probably too late for you. But the material shouldn't smell as if it's rotten milk. Something went wrong in the process and you were right if you did discard it. I would recommend using regular whole milk I've seen to have the best result with that.
For those of you who don’t want to mess with an electric deer fence in a residential area, I had good luck last year in keeping deer out of the back yard using a couple of strings of blue pennant banner flags. Borrowing from the 3-D deer fence concept, I set up the string of blue pennant flags about 3 feet behind and 2 feet above the 4 foot residential fence. Not wanting to keep the strings of flags up during the day, I attached cheap carabiner spring snaps to each end of the string of flags for easy set up and take down. I would have preferred to use strings of translucent mulch bags because of their size and the noise they make when contacted or blown by the wind, but style points count here in the suburbs, so I went with the neat and trim pennant flags. Blue flags because I read somewhere that deer are sensitive to the color blue. Let’s face it: if deer really want to get into your yard, they’re coming in, no matter what 3-D fence you’ve got-electric or decorative. But the pennant flags worked for me. Deer visitors in the early spring stayed away in the summer and fall. They had to think about jumping over the fence and contacting the flags, and decided it wasn’t worth the hassle. I’m guessing that’s what happened. BTW, the section of yard that I protected with pennant flags was two L shapes on the East and West side of the back yard, 57 foot long on either side, against a 4 foot perpendicular section of fence that contained an entry gate. I don’t think this would work for a commercial operation as described in the video, but it might work if you’re trying to protect a small back yard. For an element of sound, you might attach jingle bells to the string of flags, but I found a string of flags by itself was enough to keep the deer away. Hope this helps someone…
what's the distance between the EC wires? Does putting more magnets on the south end make a difference of the energy flow? did you dowse how many magnets to use per line?thanks
The wires are 3 ft apart. Oriented to magnetic north. On the southern end of the wires I used seven of the magnets coated in beeswax. The size of the magnet package was approximately 2 and 1/4 in and these magnets were placed on the wire approximately 6 in from the south end.
This made it through the winter pretty well. We don't really get super cold Winters so I didn't need to insulate the inside. But I'm thinking if I lived in a climate that stayed freezing for a prolonged period of time I would use foam board insulation on the inside. At this point I haven't had any trouble with the wasps but it would be an excellent home so I'm sure they'll find it at some point. Thanks for watching and appreciate the comment.
Oh yeah I can trim the grass right up to the tree trunk. It's really just a matter of learning the technique and how to hold the the scythe right. Plus it's important to keep a well-honed blade. If things get dull the cutting gets a lot more difficult.
I got my first scythe while living in suburban NJ. Pretty much the same one in the video. Mowed my suburban lawn with it for a couple of years. I've picked up several more since then and my American pattern bush blade sees more work than any of the others, because our homestead doesn't have much nice clear grass area ;) One really clear sign you need to hone again is when you see grass springing back up because it was only bent, not cut.
Yeah I've also noticed that some types of grass have a lot more silica in their leaves or stems. And that can really dull the blade fast. It's always good to keep things honed to sharpness. Thanks for watching!
I also have peach leaf curl and would like to try this. Where did you buy the ingredients? I didn't see then in your Amazon store. On another note: I used the OHN as a pre-emergent on one of my peach trees this year, and it has significantly less curl than the other trees. I applied it due to a different bark condition. I recently read somewhere that the fungus lives on the bark and that the best defense is to apply treatment just before and during the stage the leaves are emerging so that they aren't infected. Going forward that'll be the approach I try to take.
Yeah, I missed using this as a dormant spray. Definitely going to take the same approach as you. You can get the sulfur, sodium hydroxide from dudadiesel.com. Also you can get potassium hydroxide for making the wetting agent JWA fro them too. They sell these items in smaller packages that works well for batches at our scale. Only downside is freight is now pretty high.
@@BareMtnFarm thank you. I have yet to make the wetting agents. Have you tried LAB on the leaf curl? I was also thinking since the fungus stays in the soil that possibly some sort of JMS as a soil drench a few times over winter might help?! I really want to be successful with my peaches & nectarines!
💦 Once the lye and water are stirred to make the lye solution, lye solution will become very hot, sometimes reaching 200 degrees. When you are ready to make the lye solution, (((((ALWAYS pour the lye into the water.))))) One of the best tips that I've found to remember the order is to envision a light snow falling into a pond. ❄
Well the great thing about RU-vid is you don't have to pay for it. So if it's not your cup of tea, great. Just swipe away, no hard feelings. But what I don't understand about people who don't like a video that wastes their time is why they then spend their limited precious time writing comments about how they don't like to waste time watching your videos. Kind of strange isn't it? Sorry for jibber jabbing about jibber jabber. 🤔
I got the information from the Yannick Van Doorne. He's the one who came up with this technique. I think a reply earlier but the spacing of the wires is approximately 3 ft or 1 m. The wires need to be oriented to magnetic north. The magnet placement is through the hole in the magnets 6 in from the southern end. Also the magnet I use were 7 per wire. This made a combined magnet of approximately 2 and 1/4 in. I coated the magnet package with organic beeswax. This beeswax helps keep the magnet sealed. Also too it's important that the magnet package that's put on the wire that the northern pole points to the North with the magnet package approximately 6 in from the southern end of the wire.
