Hmm. Rather than digging out a spot weld that any grinding or flap wheel could have, I bet the horde would have liked to see you do a job you find can't easily be done otherwise. I'm thinking tight, no clearance angles or something... I need to be convinced I need this thing!
Thank you for your comment. I will keep it in mind on a next video. The tool used in this video has done a lot of work up to this comment. I do recommend owning the filing sander style tool. Even if it's from Harbor Freight Eastwood Company or others. The nice thing about the Harbor Freight file sander is the price and it's held up quite well under rigorous use. The main convenience of the sander is it's pinpoint access two an item whereas a flat sander typically takes away too much area. This makes the tool convenience helpful during a restore of a vehicle.
@@cswinch1 alright you convinced me... by the way those belts are aluminum oxide and they aren't really capable to keep up on metal, you'll get more use out of zirc or even ceramic if your willing to pay for it.
I think I would have just used springs to lift the bending bar up instead of the wing nuts!! Of course too another thing to use to "tighten" the thing is use the quick release cams off a couple of bicycle seats to lock it down too!! No I am NOT an engineer.....but I have seen these cams used in other applications and think that is a better method then what you have here, BUT I do like the way you added the stress control for the center like you have, makes it far better than some of the ideas I have seen!!
Excellent job showing the progression of your experiments! It also illustrates that round lifters are ideal! If you would like to see a similar device, lifting its power supply, please just click on the purple channel icon to the left. I am an electrical engineer, and it took me a long time to get it to lift the supply especially for sustained amounts of time.
You have to REALLY want a 72 Ghia to take on the challenge of that rust bucket. I had a 69 coupe with a very healthy 1835 engine, twin DelOrto 40s, good heads, it'd run 110 or 115 depending on how I had the carbs jetted. It's one of my old cars I'd like to have back, but not bad enough to create another one. Good luck with the restoration, I'm too old now and lack the patience for that kind of thing. I'm still running my shop and will be 68 this month (April). If you make your living working on cars doing it as a hobby loses it's appeal.
Ha ha ha, rust bucket..you got that one right and a few unseen crashes under Bondo...yes this car was in very bad shape. I am about half way through the rebuild. I have replaced approx 1/4 of the bottom sheet metal round the car and made new heater/rocker channels. Look up my other videos about Scarlett Re-born. As for the want, yes I have loved and wanted a ghia, even more a convert, since a little kid. I chose to make my dream of rebuilding a "given up on car" to a beautiful resto-modified ghia. This is my third car project but the most challenging to date. Nonetheless, I never give up and I have learned so much. Cool to read about your car. Do not give up living and having fun with your life. If you stop having fun then your done with eternal sleep. Thanks for you comments.
Cool video, i just bought my self a 71' . Its not a convertible though. Its in rough to fair condition, not as rough as yours, but it is rough. It runs great, and it will go down the road, all it needs in an interior restoration and paint and mine will be in decent shape, the worst part about it is the floor, its all there but it feels like if you push it hard enough you'd go right through it, lol! But anyway, nice video! And i cant wait to get mine how i want it!
Cool video. I was just browsing thru some ghia videos for no real reason other than I have one and felt like it. I Actually live in Florida too. More importantly, that song f’ing rocks and really appreciate you saying who it was. I’m a new fan of shakey! Very cool :)
Good review thanks. I go to Harbor Freight a lot and I need a sander for a small job. This sander may suit my needs. This sander is small and it cheap which puts it at the top of my list of sanders I am considering. I agree with ScubaSmith I don't want to pay a lot for a tool I may use infrequently. Harbor Freight is a great tool store full of super cheap Chinese tools. Of course, my first choice is not cheap Chinese tools, but Snap-on and other higher end tools cost a lot. If you don't know Harbor Freight and you like tools do yourself a favor and go there. Many shops buy tools for their shops there as they are so cheap who cares if they don't last as long if they only cost a quarter of what higher end tools cost.
Hey, thanks for taking the time to review this tool for us! I need one of these for one specific job and rare occasional use. I'm always wary of Harbor Freight, Chicago Electric, etc. but can't justify spending $300 or more for a bandfile that will be used so rarely. After seeing your review, I feel confident the tool will work quite well for the 10-minute job I have for it.
I mounted mine to a piece of 2x6. Then installed a handle on the end. Now I hang it on the wall for storage. I used a lag bolt on the wall. I could have just bored a 1" hole in the board too. When I need it I just take from the wall and clamp it to my workbench.
With your modifications, I noticed you were able to successfully bend a 4" wide piece of cardboard. Do you think with a thicker piece of angle on top you might be able to go up to a width of 7 inches of cardboard? Not corrugated of course, don't want to get unrealistic.
I was hoping that the bend brake was going to work with the thickness of cardboard when filming...Personally thought I was maxing out its capabilities...Since this video I installed spring to lift the bend bar for more ease of use. This unit is good for small gauge metal. I find that bending anything over 22/20 gauge is not safe without possibly breaking the machine. Nonetheless, thanks for the comment. I will now go try to bend a 7" piece of cardboard and make new modification to the brake if required. Thanks....
congrats! its good but is kind of complicated because of its multiple mechanics involved in its manufacturing process, performance, productivity and future maintenance intervals maybe you could came out with a single mechanism where you could use one single screw instead of so many expensive screws and operation i guess
instead of the lower wing nuts I would use a length of medium tension spring to push the upper angle iron up then you just have to use the upper wing nuts to tighten it down. Saves a little of time now that you do not have to constantly use thelower nuts
Used some compression springs from Home Depo, and didn't weld .. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6bSHNubOIP4.html Did you notice that without grinding some off the back side of the brake base, that the removable bar can not hit the bottom? I had to grind some off to get a complete compression... Nice idea, hope mine can help someone.
The problem I see with your modification is *no ability to adjust the position the pressing plate/bar for the thickness of the metal*. To get a clean bend, that plate/bar must be moved forwards or backwards from the pivot point depending on what you're bending - closer to the pivot point for thin metal, further for thicker. Your bolts, locking that plate/bar in place, prevent that movement, removing that ability. Certainly not a good modification if you want to retain the flexibility of this tool.
Yes. I finally rummage through parts and put springs on both sides. So the bar rises once the wing nut is released. Also for thicker sheet metal. such as 20 gauge, still need to used a couple C-clamps to hold the bar down snug enough. Hay this is a HF product not a name brand with all the bells and whistles.
I like what you've done, but I think I would have gone with heavier duty bolts for the clamping. I don't see how you can get a lot of clampdown force with thumb screws. But cool mod!
