Im a freelance landscape photographer who also likes to process his photos. On my channel I show you tutorials about some of my post processing techniques and from time to time I take you behind the scenes of my landscape photography shoots. I'm constantly trying to improve, so I hope my tutorials will get better and better with time.
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I use Focus Bracketing for macro photography using my 100-500mm lens. I photograph Dragonflies and Damselflies at close quarters and it's the best way to get the full depth of field on the subject, as long as it stats still that is - works a treat
Hi! Great information I subbed! You mention vignetting when using 15mm and stacking filters, what does the vignetting look like and cant it just be corrected in a photo editor? I honestly would prefer to leave the Kase filter adapter on the 15-35mm so I was considering the 82mm lens but I'm concerned now.
-> www.mibreit-photo.com/tutorials/how-to-print-photos.html#converting-the-color-space The ICC you use during soft proofing is just for simulating colors and paper and for adjusting the image to compensate for it. You still remain in your editing color space - ProPhoto or AdobeRGB - at this stage. At the end, you convert the color space to what your printer / lab can handle. I describe the considerations in the article I link above.
about this small border on the print: assume I order a 40x60 print - do you order 42x62 from Whitewall to get that 1cm? Or is the printed area reduced to 38x58cm instead? The latter would mean that you have to have a slightly bigger passepartout, like 5.5cm borders at least, for a 70x50cm frame, correct?
@@RonK the Border is added on top. So I first set my print size, e.g. 60x40. Then I select the Border which will be added on top, making the whole paper 62x42 with 1cm border
I don’t see the point in using expensive fine art papers with fine textures and then covering that paper with some glass. I always mount my framed pictures without any glas.
I don't have either of those cameras. But the r5c should have similar performance. But it's a cinema camera and not a stills camera. And my video is about still photography.
It depends on what brightness you set. But I think you are confusing things here - a calibrated display will ensure that your editing setup conforms to some norm in terms of brightness and colors. It provides a foundation to properly edit your photos.
The new Kase “R-MCUV” filter has a coating that eliminates ghost refections as well as glare and flare. Do you think the image quality of this filter would be the same as the regular MCUV filter?
I didn't notice differences to the MCVU version II. I don't think they really reduce ghosting vs shooting without a filter. But they don't introduce any additional artifact - a problem of cheap filters.
Loved this video, bro… I am a landscape and cityscape photographer, but only working with wide and mid range (up to 100mm), and I want to put a tele in my kit, but I have zero knowledge above 100mm. I’m thinking about getting a sigma 150-600 contemporary (to also try some moon alignments) but I wonder if it’s “overkill”, or too much… big, heavy, etc Do you see yourself using a focal length more than other? Do you feel the need of having more than 400mm? Since I don’t have much experience I’m thinking on the 150-600 not only because it’s versatility but also the price point (around 900u$)… or I could get a sigma 100-400 or even the 70-200, from sigma or the canon f4 (but feeling that it may be too short)… What do you think? PS. I should add that I have an original R (full frame) and the lenses are 16-35, 24-70 and 100mm… so when I travel I would leave the 100 at home, most probably…
I now invested in 100-500 Lens and Love it. For Landscapes i mostly stay in 100-400 range though, sometimes 500. I think 150-600 is overkill unless you also shoot wildlive.
Hi Mike, do you happen to know any reliable tide charts? According to my search by Google, different websites provide different data. I believe a correct tide chart is very important for seascape photographers.
I always use tides4fishing.com/ and the App Nautide to plan. Both use the same data. Nautide is invaluable. You pay around 10$ to get tide forecast for a year in advance which is great for planning. From my experience it's usually pretty accurate if you find a port which is close enough to the location you're shooting at. You might also find this article helpful: www.mibreit-photo.com/blog/seascape-photography-workflow/ cheers
@@mibreit-photo Thanks mike. Your website is full of treasure. I am planning my trip to sawarna beach. If the tide app is correct, there is only 3-5 days every month are suitable for photography considering both low tide and golden hour. That is really chanllage.
@@shengyetang7220 I hope you can make it work. I also have an article about how to travel to Sawarna and where to stay. It's a bit off the beaten path but all worth it!
sorry if I missed you addressing it in the video, but why are you not using multiple exposure brackets and manually focusing them, so you can stack each focused exposure stack in helicon? it's a bit more tedious in the field, but you wouldn't have to touch up so much in post
For Woodland it's all about speed when taking the sequence - I usually do automatic focus braketing. Only for the Background I use exposure brakets because there I often need it. The retouching is fine and If it doesnt work because of movement, I can usually cope with some blown Highlights in a Woodland photo. Alternative is having very different frames (because of movement) for the complete Image, If I were to focus manually throughout.
