Very interesting as I've got a slightly clunky rear diff on my 06 cr-v. I'm trying the oil flush recommendation but I wondered if the innards go bad what exactly would fail?
I have a 2013 Honda CRV, I diligently take care of it I mean I change the transmission fluid every 10,000 miles it’s just too easy not to do it, to my understanding the transmission fluid in the transfer case are the same thing if I am not correct let me know, I am I supposed to address the transfer case separately thank you
Hi, I have a 2003 CRV, I want to put in a newer rear diff in to get the upgraded ramp up system that the 07-11 CRVs had for quicker engagement, Do you know if the Gear ratio in the Diffs are the same ? Thanks!
This is a 1st gen crv diff that I pulled from a junkyard. I'm actually planning on putting it into the rear of a 99 civic hatchback. Life struggles have put my progress on hold, though. Hopefully, I'll upload some more videos soon.
I got the s1 built locking plates for my crv rear diff. GearX also that part if you want to upgrade the whole clutch pack along with the dual pump but its 2500
no the rear tires slip and the pump locker the rear end and makes it 4by 4 the gearing in the frount and rear are the same . Its called pussy 4by4 drive they do sell at kit that makes the rear end All wheel drive . Dont see why no one makes and box and drive shaft for it and clutch kit for it
They are 2006 BMW 5 series carrier bearings. Like 525, 530 550. All the same. Cheapest one I seen in rockauto are $26 . Still not bad for one. Just need two. Less than $60 not bad at all.
Noob question.... Other than the most obvious (going in reverse when in forward gears and viceversa), do you know if this diff could be flipped upside down? Thinking if this could be used in a rear engine car but wondering if gears would bind and if it would lube properly. TIA
Don't think you'd need to flip it, it's already for the rear. However, I would strongly suggest a stronger diff for a RWD application tho. These are meant to see, at best, 40% of engine torque, maybe around 100ft/lb (and thats optimistic). Just notice the difference in axle diameter from front to rear on any crv, element, pilot, crosstour, etc. The fronts are 2x as thick. You will notice ppl blowing axles constantly even on very light civics making over 200, who bypass the clutchpack as you would need to for rear-drive. So you would need aftermarket axles at least. You would also have to pin the honda diff, where a "normal" diff would work without internal modification, be lighter, stronger, and use reasonably sized axles. Just my 2c. Plenty of ppl here that might jump in with their own input.
@@outspokeninsider752 Thanks. The question wasn’t referring to RWD (although, yes, im thinking RWD), but rather rear engine car (think Porsche/early VW) where the engine would end up on the other side/behind the diff effectively having to rotate/flip it. Could it practically be done? I see all your other concerns though. Thanks for the reply.
The u-joint flange that bolts up to the crv rear diff (and front T case) is Neapco #N2-2-899-1. This will allow you to use a 1310 u joint. The 1310 u joint is common. The part number essentially is 1310. After that, you'll need a 1310 weld yoke of the proper tube diameter to weld onto the cut driveshaft tube. I'm using a Freelander driveshaft, so for the front, I can do something similar, but use a slip joint like how S1 sells or just keep the freelander factory slip joint that's already on the driveshaft and use a spacer adapter to bolt it up to the honda transfer case.
Hey I am actually getting into starting me and my son an AWD build I was wondering if you would be interested in helping me with some parts you can email of interested will make it worth your time thank you sir
If I was to tell u that I was able to manually switch over awd I'm sure it would be a better option. I'm trying to find a way to make my hondata s300 to operate it automatically with the pwm.
