Just having fun building my offroad rig, and other projects. Stay for a bit while I and my sons, friends fabricate, build, hit the trails, pits and stop by the occasional car show.
I want to put bags on my SRW F350. It's got that block you've got plus I think another 2". It makes for some horrible spring wrap so I put some traction bars on mine soon after I bought the truck. I wanted to remove one leaf from the pack and put the bags on it so it would be a softer ride, but I'm afraid of it weakening the side to side strength of the spring. Last thing I want to do is have to put a track bar on the rear end of my truck. But I definitely think if you put bags on, you really shouldn't need overloads also. I don't know much about bags, but I feel like the taller the bag can be under load the better it will be in the long run. IDK, tho.
Have you made any more progress on the folvo? I’ve been setting on my modded b234f head for 8years now and I’ve been really thinking of finishing it. I have stainless vales in it and a nice turbo manifold. Need to finish up the intake manifold that I got from yoshifab. Other than that I need to figure out the timing belt. I have a gt3000 belt that I read should work, need to figure out the head bolt/studs or spacers.
Sadly I've not. The axle swap on my Jeep has been my main focus, but now that it is done I'm planning on getting something done on the Mustang. I've had nothing but issues since I built the shortblock and I think my rings didn't seat correctly. I have a turbo couple long block in storage that I'm going to pull the head from, flycut the pistons as I did on the original Folvo build motor and swap the head over and hopefully that gets it going again. Thanks for asking.
@@AttwoodsGarage did you notch valve release in the pistons? I know you mentioned you had after market pistons in the current motor. I was thinking of notching my factory pistons.
Yes, I made a jig that holds two old valves with carbide cutters brazed on. Bolts to the block, set angle, location and depth, spin with drill. Flip 180 degrees and cut the other two.
Hello, warm greetings from the province of Pontassieve in Florence, Italy. I am the respected owner of a 4x4 Suzuki Jimmy 4x4 SUV with a 1.3 LT m13a petrol engine, all original, from 2001, it is really all original, which I usually use on rural and forest roads. and with the right mud tires everything is fine, and for me the Suzuki Jimmy 4x4, even if it is completely original, I see that it is in its natural habitat when driving on rural farm tracks and forest roads that are used by logging companies to transport timber with logging trucks!
I'm about 9K into building it over 6 years. Several things I would have done different, some because I've learned more, others because when I started building this, it wasn't supposed to get this crazy. I was just a free 2dr Cherokee with no doors, almost no floors and a smashed windshield and lots of Ohio rust. Was just going to fix this, fix that and go beat it on the trails. So some of the things I did as quick hacks are now getting done the right way. thanks!
@@AttwoodsGarage I have been kicking around an idea similar to that. Thinking about using hood vents and having the vent on that side seal to the air box. Detail on what filter you used and where you sourced the 'mushroom' would be most helpful.
It really feels like so many companies are becoming too big for their own good, and they lose sight of what got them there. A 1 year wait time for a part that is held together by hopes and dreams and a bit of glue is pretty unacceptable.
I repair and calibrate these tools for all the OEM's, some reason the German stuff is frankly on the software side, outdated and overly complex, same with the tooling. Atlas Copco from Sweden is pretty much the industry standard followed by Cleco/Apex Tools. All are having long lead times still.
You using regular mig wire for that? I have welded to cast steel with preheat to 450, 7018 SMAW, peen welds, wrap in fiberglass insulation to slow cooling. Has held up well.
Fully admit, some reason I was not having a good day with the welder. Even after grinding the frame as clean as I could, I had nothing but issues. Some days I put down some nice welds.. Other days even Stevie Wonder laughs.
Really you should of used blue And yellow those two colors work with each and the combination looks really nice together good combination for real now just trie it okay thanks again Charles later ❤️❤️❤️❤️ ❤️
The easiest way to fix chatter on long shafts like this is by changing your current cutting tool. RPM,feed, and doc look good. A positive toolholder and insert have much less cutting pressure than a negative holder. It looks too me like you're using an 80deg cnmg type insert/holder. Something like a VBMT, VCGT with a smaller radius (.001, .004, .008) would machine that with no chatter very easily
Thanks for the info. As I said above, I am not a trained machinist. I can use the machines, however I have so much to learn on doing it right. My daughter in law's father, now he's a machinist. (aerospace) I've seen his work. I'm a monkey with a hammer compared to his skills.
@AttwoodsGarage no worries at all, you're doing great. We all had to start at the beginning. I've been a machinist for about 15 years working in all kinds of industries and I still learn new stuff weekly, sometimes daily so it's never ending. Good luck on your next machining adventure!
There are a few reasons for the chatter on the part, one it’s a hard material and not supported well (gotta do what you gotta do), two the turning tool your using is make to cut toward the head stock (right hand cutting tool) a left hand cutting tool might help for the direction you are cutting, and lastly the rpm is a little fast for that rpm but it shouldn’t hurt too much. I hope I didn’t sound rude just trying to help. If you have a question feel free to ask.
Not at all. I'm an NOT a trained machinist. I'm an electronics guy that repairs industrial torque equipment. I've just over the years being here, had the opportunity to learn the machines, but not the skills, and fine points. Thanks!
Thanks for the informative video! I live in PA and am about to have to do the same to my 02 crew cab super duty soon. Any insight on using a blank cut plate vs. fully removing and buying a replacement inner rocker? I’m not sure which way to go since my inner rocker/floor supports are pretty bad they are getting replaced too.
The inner rocker is just flat sheet, the replacement is $100. If keeping the running boards is important, then you'd probably want the replacement piece since it has those locations punched out. Otherwise, no need to spend the money. Personally, I hate all the holes. Just lets water, salt, debris to collect with the resulting rot.
You have intake backwards this intake designed for front boost ports I have same setup I like yours I plugged the other 8 injectors to 😂yours look good
Nice job thorough explanation and where'd you buy the pens? How long are they? Part number and other all different. Keep up the good work brother. Nice and clean
The housing is pretty much complete. Waiting on some tooling to be machined so I can cut and spline the inner shafts. I'm also working on a 14 bolt along with my 60 front over winter with a goal to have both done for spring. The rear steer will take a bit longer as I will need to swap from leafs to coils and 4 link. Thanks for watching.
Great work! Btw someone told me they like it better to run my video intro after 30 seconds of content and it helped my retention. I ended up leaving it out entirely and using it as an "outro". Social media is a weird science 🙄
Original config had the lines running above the floor and I was worried anyone on that side would get burned, later, even wrapped was getting to warm in summer which led to redoing the floor and tunnel.
