I have a 2011 HHr 2.2 ltr and had the water pump replaced and timing chain. Some one did the work. It has a hard vibration in the motor. I don't know what to do. I feel vibration under my feet and the accelerator and acceleration. I replaced the motor mount on the left top. No same vibration. Help me please sir.
If the vibration began after the timing chain was replaced, maybe they somehow damaged the crankshaft balancer pulley. I don't think it would start if they had mis-aligned one of the timing components. Another thing which will cause that kind of vibration is the right(passenger) cv axle but you will mainly feel this driving down the road and it sometimes will seem like a bad hub bearing. If the vibration is when the car is stationary, I would check the lower motor mounts, including the one on the transmission.
Sorry about the video quality. It was my first video attempt and I think I was using a windows phone, without any other filming accessories. Have plenty of time and patience if you decide to tackle this repair.
Excellent video Simple I make a remark not a critic The cables running around the actuator mud out in the proper clips in the aviator There is a big chance when rolling down the glass that get tangle Keep doing videos you are good Dr Diaz
I have an 06 hhr the the timing chain broke. Luckily it wasnt while l was driving but this is my first time at doing one of these. I guess l betret hope l can set the timing right again
I use a remote start button which I attach to the starter and the battery. Advance Auto should carry it. I rarely have help from anyone, so make due for myself. Hope all goes well, if and when you attempt this job.
Good Evening . Thank you for this video, I have a 2006 BMW E90 316I. My Right Rear Door is locked - the lock is broken. I have opened the wallpaper, but from all the places I tried it does NOT open. What should I do? If I open the two door support hinges will I be able to open the door? It does NOT open at all. What should I do to open it? Thank you.
I never had a problem with the back door but if you were able to remove the inner cover, I would try to get a long screwdriver back to where the actuator is and tap on the handle with a hammer as someone uses the door unlock button. It may temporarily get the actuator to unlock.
GD dude talks with a funny accent terrible camera work and he seems to explain things ok but doesn't show you a lot of things although he'll say how to do stuff that's already done.
Your video was very helpful. Marked the coolant pipe before removing to realign. Also bought a $6 mirror. Best tip. I also took a long hot shower when I got overwhelmed. I truly appreciate your effort to film and share your tips.
No, but just specify driver or passenger side. I bought a new one on eBay but recently purchased a remanufactured one, where the seller refunds you $10 and includes a return label, for your old one. He also extends the warranty. It's on a Maxima and is working as well as the new one for the BMW.
Hi my good friend, I have the same car, 5 speed manual, But when I turn on the ignition, I have a problem with my stick shift not going into gears (etc., 1,2,3,etc) and reverse, When I press the clutch and the car is on, I can’t change gears… So does this video show me how to fix this problem? Thxs.
Haven't had this car for a while, but if I remember correctly, the clutch master cylinder should be mounted next to the brake master cylinder and have a line feeding to the brake master cylinder, so you want to be sure it is full of brake fluid. Then check the clutch slave cylinder, mounted on the transmission and pull the dust cover boot back. If fluid leaks out, then you will need to replace the slave cylinder. The air will need to be bled at the slave cylinder. If this still does not take care of the problem, then you probably have to replace the clutch. The second time my clutch went out, it was due to the engine rear main oil seal, leaking oil onto the clutch. Since it is a round seal, the transmission and flywheel have to be removed to replace the oil seal and it will ruin the clutch disc.
WARNING: Don't forget to take the white plastic guide off the old actuator and install it on the new actuator. AGH! I didn't notice this until reading the notes of other people that caught this. I had already installed the new actuator without it. But, I was able to loosen the 3 big bolts and slide the actuator down and put the piece on inside the door without unhooking everything. Ugh. A couple of gotchas I had to learn. If you accidently pull on the exterior door handle with the keylock removed, it will slide and come unhooked from the mechanism that actual opens the door (e.g. there is no spring resistant in the handle anymore). There are a couple of OTHER people with videos that discuss this problem. It is HARD to get it back in and there is a trick -- see those videos. Even with the trick, mine took 2 people and 4 hands to get it to work. Do everything you can to NOT disconnect the exterior handle -- don't touch it while the keylock is removed. That cost me at least an hour of googling, video watching, cursing, convincing my wife that doing this myself was a great idea, etc. SECOND, with the keylock removed, the plastic housing the hex bolt is in shifted back in to the door 1/4 inch. It looked fine, but the under-handle light would NOT go back in place. 45 minutes of fighting with it with no chance of getting it back in position like the videos from multiple people show. I finally took the passenger door cap (the fake doorlock piece) off to see what was different between the doors and that is when I realized what had shifted. With some cajoling, I got it back in place. Ugh. (And then I stupidly pulled the handle and disconnected it from the lock mechanism like I did on the other door -- see above paragraph.) I had actually done this replacement on the passenger door a couple of years ago. The driver side door kicked my but. 3 hours. I haven't cursed this much in a long while.
Hi I have the same. Issues but mine is driving fine just there’s not that much of throttle response when I go 65 it struggles to go above that and I don’t even get a check engine just no link and the lack of throttle response can you give me some pointers also my fuse it was not blown
What you/re describing sounds like you may have a clogged catalytic converter. I never had the symptoms you are experiencing however if you happen to be in Texas, you are allowed to replace the converter with a straight pipe, which is how they used to test to see if it resolved the problem. Doing so, will probably trigger the check engine light since it will affect the oxygen sensor readings. Good Luck!
@@mikegarza1272 @Mike Garza well tried other ecu from a same model but now it did turn on the truck at fist move for just a couple of feet then it turned off, now it wont star but it cranks though I am lost here also when I've tried the other ecu same thing no communication as my original one so I am thinking that I need to get the same exact part and that the ecu's are not interchangeable ☹
The BMW stealership quoted me $1200 to do this job. Wanted $270 for the part. Found the same OEM part online for $160. Install was easy. Saved a lot of money with the DIY approach. Nice video! Helped to clarify the barrel lock mechanism nicely. Cheers!
The crankshaft bolt is to be torqued to 74 ft/lbs then tightened another 125 degrees . It’s also recommended to replace the bolt. The chain oiler spigot should be torqued to 89 inch pounds, that bolt can vibrate loose. The timing chain tensioner head is 32 mm , torque it to 55 ft/lb
Thank you for the great video instructions. It was a great help. A bit tricky inside the door getting the two cable connectors from the outside door handle off because I didn’t have your handy dandy tool. But I figured out a way and it all when smoothly from there. Thanks again, -mark
Just wanted to say thank you for the video. I’m going to try tighten the bolts up first. My question is how did you Know it was the gasket ? Did you take it anywhere. Again thanks
After removing the top cover, you could see where the oil was dripping (after the car was warmed up) from the passenger rear side of the valve cover as it dripped onto the exhaust, where it smoked and smelled pretty bad.
I’m currently in San Antonio, TX but I only work on my own vehicles. If you happen to be in the area, I may be able to assist, but I’m not up for doing the repair myself.
Thermostat was the only issue. The WP was just a preventative measure, since I read that they can quit after 100k miles. I ended up selling it with 89k miles, so never knew if there were any WP issues.
I am interested to repair the gears inside the actuator but have not seen any DIY videos or instruction. It seems that drilling and cutting is necessary to teardown the actuator. Anyone??
Unless it's a new one, that you will get rid of in a few years, I wouldn't recommend that. Both the HHR and the G6 with the same engine, have hit 150k miles with relatively few issues. Both timing chain replacements were preventative maintenance. Meanwhile, my sister has sunk about $12k into her 2009 Forester and finally got rid of it at 100k miles.
Too me you've just went backwards reliability wise unless it's a newer Subaru the older ones are plagued with issues that are more serious then a timing chain replacement on a small 4 cylinder engine
I have a 2006 hhr, 2.4 with 340,000 miles and am looking at replacing the timing chain. Car runs great, no overheating, no smoke. Changed oil religiously every 5k Mobil 1. Only thing I've noticed recently is a little whine at highway speed.
Thanks for the video! Made it a lot easier to tackle this job. I normally dread working on door panels, window regulators etc... but this was actually one of the easiest I've done. Thanks BMW!
Sorry, I have not found a good glue and spray upholstery adhesive is very messy and hard to work with. Sometimes you can reuse the original adhesive if you press the insulation back in place. For tears, I have used duct tape, to at least try to have some type of seal.
Doesn't BMW use biodegradable gaskets material now to be ECO friendly? Which could have a adverse reaction to Florida style climates in it's life span.
Sorry, I'm not familiar with that. The OE gasket I removed was a "rubber" type gasket, just like the one I bought on Ebay. It had hardened as these usually do, so it had lost its sealing properties.
I got a big laugh going on when you had to take a break because you where frustrated. The HHR will most definitely create frustration along with scratched hands and knuckles. Thanks again.
Yes, I've found that sometimes it is good to stop and re-group and try again when I'm well rested. Once, when I couldn't stab a 5 spd trans, I left it till the following weekend, at which time the trans went straight in to the new clutch.
