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The adapter I ordered was wrong. Apparently, at 10 to 35 adapter is hard to find. So, I went to my welding supply store and just got a dinse 35 plug that I need to actually hardwire on. I haven't got around to doing that. However, when I do, there is a 35 to 10 adapter on Amazon so I can take it back down to the little size if I need to.
Great vid. I have the chicago electric flux 125 but when i saw this for 99 bucks i had to do a double take…couldn’t believe the discount and many have said this was much better than the old ce125 i got one! Your video solved a lot of my issues but one thing that’s still an issue is i have the 39 dollar hf shield that i got on sale for 29 but the issue is i still have a hard time seeing my weld puddle. Is it just a matter of swapping out for a better lense rather than a brand new helmet or do i just need to be closer to see?
Jason, I was one of your very first subscribers, been waiting a while now to see if you’ll do a rig tour, keep up the videos man favorite welding channel on RU-vid!
Thank you very much, and I really appreciate your support, I really do. A few others have asked for a rig tour also. I have a few things I want to do to my truck before I do a tour. Hopefully I can get those done over the Winter when the work slows down a bit. When I get that done, I will reach out to you and let you know it's up. Thanks for following along with me. If you have any other suggestions for videos, please let me know. It's sometimes hard to come up with ideas.
🙋♂️guilty, I finally snagged 1 for 99.00! I've been debating for the past year to get one or not, they had them on sale for $126.00 awhile back, but by the time I got there they were out of stock. I like your style of video - no fluff, no bs just down to earth real life experience. New subscriber hoping to learn all of this new tech stuff, I haven't touch a welder since 1983 (an old lincoln stick welder about the size of a chest freezer, that loved the electric)
Welcome, and thanks for subscribing. Thank you for your comment. I like to keep it simple and get right to it. These videos are harder to do than I thought, but if I help someone it's all worth it. You will enjoy the new welder. Things have come a long way since the old Lincoln Tombstones
I was at HF on Tuesday 15 minutes before the doors opened to get one of these. Can't wait to see how the Easy-Flux 125 DC inverter does versus the Chicago Electric flux core AC machine I bought years ago. I'd vote for back and forth (#2 I think) for cosmetics, but it would be cool to cut them in half to see a side view of the penetration. Isn't there some acid or dye you can put on the cut welds to see penetration? Anyways, thanks for posting this!
Thanks! I really appreciate that. I'm not the fanciest RU-vid channel, with fancy sets and lighting. Just a guy doing what he can, with what he's got, trying to help someone. Comments like yours are much appreciated.
I've never been really good at reading the labels and figuring out the needs. I run this with no problem off the Vulcan Outlaw, which is 6500watts. But, one time I went to my Dad's house for a little repair. He had one of those quiet inverters from Harbor Freight, I think it's 3500w. It kept tripping the breaker, at not too high of a setting. So use that info, if that helps. Maybe someone with more knowledge about this will chime in.
@allstarwelding have you used this little welder at max settings with the vulcan outlaw? im still on the fence on buying the vulcan outlaw but if it can run this at max then ill probably get it
@@Leo-y6i yes I have. You will like the Outlaw. It's a beast. I also use it for my Primeweld 160 with Flux wire, and my Primeweld MTS-200. And of course for it's stick capabilities. It will also let me weld while my helper runs the grinder or a saw at the same time. I've used it to run lights and weld on night jobs.
Welcome to the Titanium Team. I've had two I've used for YEARS. These are absolutely one of the best financial wins you can purchase at HF. These machines perform perfectly - especially concerning their price point. Couple them with high-quality FC wire like Blue Demon and you have VERY little splatter. I've made dozens of tables and projects with these welders. One constructive criticism note for improving on these, you toe portions of the welds are a bit cold. Consider turning it up a smidgen more to blend those a bit better. Otherwise, you're doing great.
Thanks for your comment. Like you, I'm on my 2nd one as well. Got the first one shortly after it came out. They are great for when I need to go on location with it. You don't have to worry about the wind, or lugging around a big tank. You are right about the cold toes. My shop is really old, and some of the wiring/breakers are suspect at best. I was really surprised I was able to do the demo, at those settings, without tripping a breaker. Usually when I'm using this, it's off the generator in my truck, so that's usually not an issue. I was trying to get the demo finished before the breaker tripped. More heat would have helped, and a little more time at the toes to let it melt in. Good catch
@@AllStarWeldingSC Because this little welder puts the power out especially over the same variation of the 'Century' model, it'll take it - if you can give it. So I wired a dedicated 30Amp to the side of my house to run this puppy and it literally won't stop. Well built little Inverter Welder for the price! Cheers.
Excellent video brother, just picked one up on sale today. My first welder, can you please recommend a good quality wire and a decent welding hood? Tyvm
Thanks. That $99 sale was incredible. I'm sorry I missed it. However, since many people picked up one of these today, I'm going to make another video about it tomorrow. I will try to get it edited and posted tomorrow evening. Make sure you subscribe and set the notifications so that you will see it tomorrow night. I will even give you a shout-out!
@@johepple5124 since so many people grabbed one of these on the 1-day $99 sale, I am going to make another video about it tomorrow, and post it tomorrow night. Keep an eye out for it.
I guess because it doesn't really effect me too much. The Outside is 195amp, and when I run it at 90, it's pretty much 100% duty cycle. Even if it wasn't, by the time I run a stick, clean up the slag, grab another stick, get back in position, etc it's already rested enough. How do you like your Ruffian?
@@AllStarWeldingSC understandable! most of my work is done in the 100-120amp range with 1/8 rod. Now I realize it's not apples to apples but I compare any machines performance against the Miller 325 Trailblazer (250' complete circuit)that I absolutely love. While I've never had an opportunity to run an Outlaw, I've ran a blue star 185 and Hobart 145 while erecting light duty steel buildings and found that both had to be turned up to "+130amp" on the machines to achieve an output and weld comparable to a miller 325 trailblazer set to 117(all average 100' complete circuit). The Ruffian has been a cut of a different cloth performing with much less differentiation between the amperage setting and the bead. It also has an arc force feature. Esabs' inverter transformer technology is so efficient at delivering the "heat". Reliability has never been an issue with any of my Esab machines in this central Texas heat!
The outlaw has a 100% duty cycle at 105 amp and the ruffian has 100% duty cycle at 115. I agree that it's not good to run a machine at max for the majority of its work, once I experienced the inefficiency I did with the Hobart 145 and bluestar it made me cross them off my list and I assumed the Outlaw would perform the same. I still sought after one and was willing to make an exception bc of the price point and generator rating!
@@AllStarWeldingSC I just had to pass a structural x ray weld test with a supplied Hobart 145, I didn't turn that thing in until I had it looking like I did it with the trailblazer! Talk about having to dial a machine in! I passed and am still getting compliments on the results. While the process was drug out the end result was achieved none the less!!! Blessings from Tx Chief!
Quick question as I’m going to be doing the same thing. Quick question that could be dumb. Could you not just flip your axle over and use the existing perch instead of welding the one on the top?
Yes and no.... If it's just a light duty straight axle, then yes. However, take a look at your axle, yours is curved, and the middle is higher, then it has a "camber". If you simply flip those over, then the hump would point down, which is not good. Having said that, the cheap version is to get some new perches from the hardware store like I did. The other option, is to look at the Dexter Over/Under kit. It includes perches, u-bolts, plates, and all the hardware. And if I understand that kit correctly, it's basically a no-weld kit. The new perches have a threaded stud welded to them. You would place their new perch on the axle, and adjust the long nut until each one is touching the original perch below it. That way it is using the old ones to position the new ones. It's quite smart, and easy to install. The price is around $70-$80 dollars. Check Amazon
someone replaced the springs with shorter ones, and it looks like ones for less weight. I'd of painted the axle/perches after you grind off the old and welded... less rust down the road. This is a common thing people do with 4X4's... good vid!
Thanks. I had thought the same when I noticed they were 3 leaf instead of 4. But then I looked it up and found out that Dexter has 3 leaf "light duty", and 4 leaf "heavy duty", while both being for that size axle. So that was confusing me too. After I made the vid, I sprayed it all with primer, as it will soon be painted.
Grey is a great color , But if you paint the trailer Blue, green or red your trailer will stand out from the rest of trailers on the road, Easier to spot if stolen,
I was curious as to why it smokes so much? I am under the impression that tig is pretty clean and there is usually not much smoke. Any idea as to why it is smoking while welding? I'm looking to get into cheap ways to start tig welding in my garage, and I don't want to have to deal with the smoke factor as of right now.
The time it smokes, my steel wasn't clean. If you look closely, there is a small gap between the plates. That was just a piece of scrap I had laying around, and I was unable to clean off the mill scale. Tig normally is a very clean, and nearly smoke free. That is, if you clean your pieces well. My pieces were terribly dirty. It didn't hardly smoke at all on the first test, or the second. But that third one smoked a lot just because it was dirty, and trying to burn off the mill scale.
I know it would be the only blue one around. Easy to spot if it gets stolen! I'm leaning towards the integrated dovetail. I think it would look better than hanging off the back
Thanks. I'm trying to keep them a little shorter. If you noticed in this one, I did a lot of fast speed parts. I also just said "Same on the other side" so that I wouldn't have to show it, and cut it out. But I know that someone is going to say that I didn't show something. I know on this one, I got a little "speechy" at the end, that's because while I am working, in my head I was thinking about other stuff I needed to tell y'all about. And I'm really trying to work on not saying "um" so much. It's crazy that a 30 minute job was almost 3 hours of video that I had to edit down as much as I can. I'd like to keep them around 12 minutes, without loosing your interest. There is a guy I follow that does generator repair videos, and some of them are an hour long!! I get bored after 10 minutes, and move on, and that hurts the ratings.
For sure lower the setting. The chart inside the lid is usually spot on, or at least a good starting point. I hardly ever do thin sheet, and when I do, I Tig it
The vulcan should be pretty useful if you need TIG, though it might be hard to wheel it around... It goes down to 20A, now how easy it is to Start low might be another question...However, the Vulcan does have a hot start. It will be good to see in action.
My Outlaw is mounted in my truck. If I go mobile and need Tig, it will be at my tailgate, otherwise, I will bring back to my shop. I get called to a lot of commercial kitchens to repair stainless stuff, some is too big to bring to the shop. For those, I plan on just getting a lunch box sized DC arc welder. Most go down to around 20, and up to 120. I will make a small wheeled cart, similar to a small suitcase, to hold the welder, my small tank, and the torch/hoses. That setup will be perfect to repair commercial dishwashers, handles on brackets, handles on fry baskets, etc
Yeah, that's what I figured you were needing to do. Pick a small one that others say works well for what you need. In one of your other vids you said you were getting calls with stainless repairs. I haven't practiced lift TIG on the everlast, I contaminate the weld pool enough with tungsten , using the HF start. Hope you have some scrap stainless to try out your portable rig on. I guess you have to use some type of passivation on stainless in restaurants to ensure it doesn't rust or is it a problem?
A common misconception as to what "lift start" actually is. With lift start you can touch the electrode to the base material and nothing will happen until you pull away the arc will start. That's lift start. Everything else is "scratch" start no matter if you're doing a scratch motion or just lifting the electrode. If you're running scratch start when you touch the electrode to the base material will immediately arc, there is no mechanism to start the arc when you lift away. With scratch start it's almost impossible to not contaminate the electrode as we see here in the first example which was nice but you can see the contamination on the tip.
You are very right. On my Primeweld 225x, it has HF start, which is preferable. Of the other 2 methods, lift start is preferred. Scratch start will almost always contaminate your electrode (as seen in my video). Thank you for pointing that out. That was my first time doing scratch start. I have done lift start just a few times. I am very spoiled with my high frequency start on my 225.
Best way to start a scratch start is to stick your tungsten out a little extra and swipe your filler rod across the non sharpen part of the tungsten while the filler rod is touching your grounded work piece. When done properly you will not contaminate your tungsten.
@@AllStarWeldingSC HF is a thing of beauty, definitely the best way to do it. The wire swipe can be tricky when learning it, and is only really used in the pipe world, which is a really small world. Great video to get someone rolling with minimal equipment! Always gotta start somewhere 👍🏽
@@albybaker1701 Thanks a lot brother. What you see on the video is actually my very first time doing scratch. I knew the theory though. All of my tig has always been HF start. I bought this setup for an upcoming mobile job. But I figured someone might like to see it too. I spent the weekend practicing this scratch start, and I am better now. My goal now is to buy a very small arc welder from Amazon for a power source, and to make a small wheeled cart similar to an airplane carry-on to hold the unit, and the small tank. Then I can put the ground lead and torch in a small tool bag. I once got called to a nursing home to repair a broken handle on a stainless kitchen dishwasher. It was a very quick job. But I had to bring in a big arc welder and some 308L rods. This will be so much easier, and no slag and smoke.
