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Trick question. We do have a "first course" video, but I am not sure how well I cover this question in it. unlike a fireplace, the kitchen island doesn't have to be level- it can also have a drainage slope. Of course, there are some caveats. It shouldn't slope too much. It can slope in two planes but shouldn't curve or twist. The entire foundation should be in one flat plane. You should still build it plumb. Since the structure is built in 4" layers, this can be achieved by stacking the sloped layers vertically plumb. If you do want it "perfectly" level, you can set it in a mortar bed, or use sand (1/4" or less) to level the base. If you have more questions, reach out to us via the website email address.
These blocks are denser and solid, unlike standard concrete blocks. These surpass ASTM C90, which is the spec for standard CMU. Brick and mortar have a much lower standard as they are not structural. Moreover, mortar is meant to be the weak spot in traditional masonry construction. It is a concrete sponge used to level bricks and blocks. It has specs to meet, but it is made to be a fail point and be repaired easily. This does not mean it is weak. Unfortunately, the mortar holds moisture and succumbs easiest to freeze-thaw cycles. The lack of mortar in our construction actually is a benefit for freeze/thaw as water is not held in a soft cementitious material (mortar). The water drains out between the blocks better. True, the block will hold moisture, but it will be less than that of CMU blocks- which are structural and stronger than brick- but still use mortar. If by harsher you mean salt water spray- then you are probably better familiar with those effects if you live in that environment. If harsher means just cold- that is not harsh for masonry. The harshest is the in and out of freezing- the freeze-thaw cycles. Those are usually found in the middle of the country- where I live. Mine is showing no signs of wear after 8+ years. I do get biological staining from the trees above, but it is easily cleaned.
There are two ways- which will be shown when I finish the main video. You can screw the box to the structure or rails. This takes the "waterproofness" away. I like to create a foam wedge at the top of the unit. It creates a solid friction fit with the stone. It is more solid feeling than using screws at the bottom, and it makes seasonal removal or cleaning easier. To make it as sold using screws, you would have to puncture the outer casing toward the top. Once again, this would be the worst case for water penetration. It is just that easy- check back for the main video.
Good question. It's not needed. The fire brick serves as an extra layer that protects the support walls. The floor is not structural. Moreover, I haven't had any issues in years with my fireplace floor nor heard of any.
You would build it the same way near a pavillion. Be sure to position the fireplace so that your chimney misses all framing members by at least 2". Also, be sure to make your chimney tall enough for proper clearance over your roof.
There are rules for the volume of the fire box, the opening height and width to the box, and the cross sectional area of the flue in conjunction with its height. That said, all else being equal (opening, firebox, cross section of flue) the taller the chimney the better the draw. Also, the bigger the cross sectional area(so else equal), the shorter the chimney can be for given firebox dimensions. Draft is a concern, but it is not as critical outside as inside since smoke won't back up into your inside room. Also there is no pressure differentials between inside and outside to account for, but no wind, either. These fireplaces draft well. If you live on the bottom of a hill or a place where downdrafts of wind happen, you may need a taller chimney. Usually taller dumbbells are used for roof clearance needs. Note, the chimney drafts better as the fire heats the column of air more and more. So, I start with my grate toward the front so the kids get plenty of air to start a good burn. Then I push the heater and lid towards the rear of the box for better draft after the logs start burning. This may be TMI, but hopefully it answers your questions and sheds some light on the subject.
Honestly, you can alnost never have too much footing. The specs show minimums.The most important thing is a solid base or sub-base. You can also use sono tubes for reinforcement. I would go up to 8" with for piers/tubes in the corners down to the frost line. check out this link: cornerstone.rocks/foundation-instructions/
Yeah. I've heard that, but I buy levels that can take abuse. You can even find them with guards on them to take the shock- see Stabila. I have a cast aluminum level with old school glass vials that I've pounded on for years and I haven't even broken a glass vial. Those cast aluminum levels take a pounding but are heavy. Not pounding is obviously easier on the level. But masons have tapped/pounded solid wood levels for decades. Aluminum I-beam levels can not take the pounding at all! avoid those, unless your a painter ;)
What do you do with the rails and stakes when finished. Do you leave them, or pull them out. Seems like pulling them out would mess up the base, but leaving them in, eventually they would rot, and leave a void.
You pull them out and fill the voids with gravel as stated in the instructions. The fact that they are about 16" outside the perimeter of your feature means that they won't mess up the base. Please follow the instructions here: cornerstone.rocks/foundation-instructions/
Can the base pad be the same dimensions as the fireplace or should it be bigger than it? My instructions seem to show to lay out the bottom bricks then mark and use that for the base making sure the bottom layer is 1-2" below grade.. wondering what the norm is. Also what don you do with the batter boards? Do you pull them out and fill with dirt?
Please check our website for prices. We have many options. Our most popular models can be configured and priced in real-time here: cornerstone.rocks/store/#!/Outdoor-Fireplace/p/486143251/category=0
I like this fireplace and video was easy to follow . I looked on your website and couldn't find this kit interested and would like to know the price and delivery time line
You can find all our models online Here: cornerstone.rocks/fireplace-kits/ You can find the specific model in this video here: cornerstone.rocks/outdoor-fireplace/barrington-fireplace-standard-kit/ You can configure our fireplace on any model page, or you can do it here: cornerstone.rocks/store/Outdoor-Fireplace-p486143251
Crazy right. Try finding a .com these days. If it's a half-way decent name, it is taken. Many are squatted and sell for thousands of dollars. We found a decent one and the owner was asking 80K for it! We decided a non-traditional TLD would be fun. It was probably for garage bands, but it works.
Hey, this is from Family Handyman. We are really interested in your video and want to partner with you. Please contact us back so we can discuss more. Thank you
Great job, really explains the process. A large fireplace with a chimney is on my list of things to do this summer, I really appreciate the info in the video.
We are working on adding new products and fulfilling orders. We usually shoot videos over the winter. You can always subscribe and turn on notifications. We don't post enough videos to become a nuisance.
Sand is definitely not the required base. You can build on compacted gravel or concrete. Check out the specs here: www.cornerstone.rocks/foundation-specs-and-plans. If you choose to use a compacted gravel floating footer, you can see how to do it on our video here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yea4CVvfUhQ.html
Yes. You can do it. All the planning guides, foundation requirements, and plans can be found on our website. You can find the info here: www.cornerstone.rocks/info. If you have any questions, be sure to reach out to us.
People often use fiberglass tape measurers from 100-300 feet long when measuring long distances such as their yard or property. These tapes are notoriously stretchy. You have to be sure to not pull too hard. Since you may be squaring up to a property line 80 feet away or more, you have to be careful about stretching the tape when pulling your radii. But you are correct. At short distances, it doesn't make much sense.
@@billsmithersjr.1151 That movement of the metal tip is to allow for measuring from an outside edge, where you hook it over the edge or an inside measurement where you are measuring from an inside wall for example. That movement is to allow for the thickness of the metal tip. All tape measures have this. Typically it is about 1/32 inch. It does not "stretch".
