I have a chevy cruze with the 1.4L turbo. The PCV valve is under the valve cover and unaccessible without complete removal and replacement of the cover. Its throwing a code for lean air mixture. No rough idle no stalling no smoke but acceleration has been getting worse and highway driving is starting to be out of the picture. Although fuel economy is unchanged. The hose leading out from pcv valve has accumulated a small pool of clean oil ontop of my intake manifold. I dont have the tools or area needed to work on it. I have put it off for about 3 weeks now. Have I already damaged the engine severally?
Not all cars have the exact same symptoms. Not everybody is looking for what you are looking for. The Video covers wide common and general issues. Thanks for the comment.
Does it matter in what order these fuel injectors are placed ? because I have miss-placed mine,should I put them back as they were ? I don't notice any change,I have Toyota Prius 2019,I was checking them,so I've got 3 of them with plastic on the end and the last one had none.It is straight gasoline injection.So except the plastic on the end of them,they look like new. Although I already have 100 k miles.No smell of gasoline,nothing leaking.No miss shots,No delays,it drives as it was before swap.
Fuel Injectors on modern cars are computer program regulated and they are precisely timed. So, yes, it usually matters that they are in order. Hope that helps.
Hello, the ac sometime work ， sometime not , but when it work , it really cold , dddl Has code: lost communication with front HVAC / HVCF for 3 seconds or longer, 524025 31 I been AC COMPRESSOR /EXP VALVE /PRESSURE SENSOR VACUUM AC SYSTEM recharge the freon, it work one month and it happened again, can you tell what is going on with my truck , I did not replace the dryer filter , you think could be dryer problem? Truck is 2019 freightliner. Cascadia if you know anything, please let me know!🙏🙏🙏
It is still possible you might have refrigerant leak. You may need to get the refrigerant level and pressure checked. Hope this helps. Thank you for sharing.
How do you know what pressure sensor is the bad one? Low or high? I do not have a high end scanner but it did pick up a code (B1079) and most common fixes says "Replaced A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor" but doe snot tell me high or low? Any ideas? It is on a 2013 Lancer
you'll have to by pass the AC/pressure switch, high or low first using a coated wire. There is a video on youtube: How to bypass the AC pressure switch using a paper clip. Something close to that. Just try the easiest to get to one first and move the other if that is not the one. Several videos on this topic. I was told twice; I needed a new compressor. I only have 121,000 on my car. It's hard to believe. I am going to try this. Shops don't want to replace small parts. They want to go for the jugler.
Doing a "voltage drop" test confirms condition of ground strap. with engine running and lights, fan on high, radio on, and a multi meter switched to DC volts, put negative on battery negative, the other lead touch metal of engine block, alternator housing, ground wire eyelets to seek faulty connections. 0.056 or less is good, higher say 0.09 or 0.1 indicates fault in ground. The reason everything on when doing test is to "Load" the circuit. Not loading the circuit can give false readings, i.e. corrosion can allow connection, but when a load is applied the corroded connection sees amperage beyond it's current capabilities and temporarily breaks connection.
Don't buy those red and black, painted, battery cable connectors from Putozone. I put one on my tractor and it wouldn't even turn the engine over. I checked all the other connections, cleaned the other terminal, and then discovered there was still high resistance at the new connector. It didn't look painted on the interior surface that contacts the battery post, but, apparently, it was spray painted with a clear top coat that was also on the inside surface. I had to physically scrape that out with a knife. My battery terminal brush wasn't up tough enough to remove it.
Many years ago I owned a 1963 Diamond-T truck. It started having electrical problems in the dash. I took it to an electrical technician and they told me they would fix it, no problem. The next trip I had trouble getting it started. Took it back to the electrical mechanic shop and they said my 4 battery's were just bad. Needless to say, 4 new batteries and I still had problems starting the engine and still had problems with the dash lights and other cab lights. I called up a guy I knew who was a Cummins engine mechanic and told him my problem. He told me to take the ground off the frame and the battery and throw it away. He said buy a new cable and then he told me to buy another cable to put on the opposite side of the engine to ground it to the engine and then to the frame. He also told me to actually sand or grind the places on the frame and engine. It worked great from then on. It had cost me a couple of thousand dollars to go through the previous so called repairs and lost wages due to the down time the truck was in the shop.
Measure Voltage between battery negative and the frame, also between the alternator negative and battery negative. If you get elevated readings, there's a ground fault.
Try to see and look to the side of the AC compressor pulley. If the clutch engages and spins while the AC is on, then it usually means the compressor is engaging and working. Hope this helps.
I believe the o rings on mine are going bad, 13 Rogue with 296k. On occasion it will sputter and jerk and then I can smell a light fuel smell. My fuel economy will drop until I pull over and let idle briefly. It only happens at 70 mph when the pressure is higher on the seals I think. Ideas?
Honestly sounds like unburned fuel due to spark plugs not igniting. Have you replaced the spark plugs lately? I would try and replace the spark plugs, with 296K miles I am positive they need to be replaced if they have not been replaced in the last 80-100K miles. It is also a cheaper fix too. You might also consider pouring 1 can of SeaFoam in the gas tank to clean things up. Hope this helps, good luck!
@@fixit3879 yes, I have replaced the plugs with oe plugs probably within 75k, but I will check them. I already bought the injectors so I will replace them anyhow. I get codes p0137, p0138, p0139 and p0171 in random orders. Thank you for the reply and suggestion.
GREAT ADVICE!!! I had the same thing happen to me and I got offered a check and a recommended shop. I have a friend who is a mechanic and said he could do it cheaper. Would you advise going to a recommended shop or have a friend fix it?
If you would like to save your money go with a friend, and if money is not an issue then you can go with a recommended shop. Most people go with a friend to save the money. Good Luck and thank you for sharing!
It might be a faulty thermostat, radiator cap, radiator hoses, or a small leak in the AC system. The first thing I would highly recommend is getting an AC system pressure test done to check and see if you have any coolant leaks.
Also, before you start your vehicle, take off the radiator cap and check if the coolant level is where it should be. Also, start your vehicle and look under the hood and underneath the vehicle to see if you spot any visual leaks. If you are not sure, just take it to a mechanic shop if it makes you comfortable.
@@DanielShepherdjr thanks, will do. but cannot also be that the oil is forming sludge and so causing to overheat?? or even sludge formation should not cause the overheating??
@carlosandresparra9306 Not necessarily always the case, but it is something to look at. There are good engine flush products you can try, like Liqui Moly Engine Flush, but if you go that route, I highly recommend you use Liqui Moly motor oil from that point forward after performing the engine flush.
Years ago I bought a used car that started having engine overheating issues. The radiator was clogged with some form of liquid seal product the previous owner used on a car. So sometimes flushing the radiator might also help too. Good Luck.
Okay what if everything that happens to everyone happened to me except I placed another door from another Chevy Malibu except it is 2016 and the door I placed for the driver side my car is a 2017 Chevy Malibu will that key in the fob still work for that door I swapped
If you had changed the door key lock on the door then it would work, otherwise it will not work. In this case you have to call auto locksmith. Hope this helps. Good luck!
IT DOES NOT DRAW VACUUM FROM THE ATMOSPHERE, IT GET VACUUM PRESSURE FROM THE MANIFOLD OR SOMEWHERE ELSE ON THE INTAKE CREATING VACUUM PRESSURE FROM THE PISTONS PULLING AIR IN ON THE INTAKE STROKE OR IN A SUPERCHARGED ENGINE YOU NEED TO GET VACUUM FROM THE FRONT OF THE SUPERCHARGER SINCE YOU HAVE A POSITIVE PRESSURE INDUCTION SYSTEM RATHER THAN A NEGATIVE PRESSURE INDUCTION SYSTEM.
Hello how are you? One question, what defect did your vehicle have? My car throws the same fault codes (p0480 and p0691) with the defect that the fan does not turn off. THANK YOU!
Does yours was making a noise when it starts giving you trouble? I have same codes showing up and same problems but the different with mine is the noise I have just replaced the turbo and it’s doing the same.
