Nice video. For me, it was worth watching just to see the trick @ 1:15 using the drill press to clamp the bit into the vise perfectly centered for the workpiece in the chuck. Cheers, I never thought of such a simple solution!
I have an SF-680 that is driving me nuts.. powers on but won't do anything else. I checked all the important bits... so it's probably a part I can't order. These are absurd.. expensive and not often repairable.
Yep but those are only marking with a pencil. This method actually gives me a starting hole/countersunk hole, much more useful. And since I had made the part with the hole saw, it would fit perfectly as well and be accurate.
Awesome video man! I've been trying to build a similar type of low voltage 12vdc solenoid 30awg for a while and it works great. The only problem is when the voltage or current increases. I just wish there were ways it wouldn't heat up so quickly after being energized for more than 20 seconds.
Great, great video, thanks a lot! As for me I suspect the control board to fail, if anyone has an idea how to find it, it would be greatly appreciated!
This was an extremely helpful video is the exact same problem we have with our steamer, and I cannot express to you how much gratitude I have for you showing me how to do this!! thank you so very much, sir❤
Hello! My press is lighting up but not getting hot. I have ordered a new thermostat but I want to order a fuse as well to have on hand just in case. Can you post a link to where you got your fuse? I'm not even sure what it looks like. 😂
I bought the fuse at a local Mom & Pop electronics store, actually. I unfortunately don't have a link to the web. It's called a "thermal fuse". Searching that term should quickly bring up many options. Inside the steam press, it's covered with a white fiberglass sleeve to prevent electrical shorting. At the moment I don't recall the temperature rating, though. My press actually stopped working again, and once again it was the thermostat that was burned out, they just undergo a lot of stress. We decided to get rid of it and get an electronic model instead.
can you make a solenoid with the wire wrapped around a metal tube? Mine doesnt pull in the rod for my pulse motor. The iron rod seems to stick to the sides of the metal tube instead of being pulled all the way in.
No, a steel or iron metal tube will not work. The magnetic field lines will go into the metal tube and get concentrated there, and won't affect your plunger at all. Is mainly ferrous metals like steel and iron that will not work. If you want to use metal you must use something like aluminum or copper
Muchas gracias, de verdad muy ilustrativo y justamente algo asi andaba buscando para mas o menos caracterizar un destornillador electrico que estoy pensando hacer pero que tenga la opcion de torquear el tornillo, no se si sea algo muy ambiocioso pero bueno, la maxima es aprender. Saludos desde Tachira, Venezuela!!!
I don't think it makes a difference the magnetic flux lines will still "complete their circuit" in any of them so it should be the same, I suspect very little difference based on shape
@@researchandbuild1751 Thanks! Followup question, why do so many solenoids lack two sides on their casing? Clearly I don't understand the magnetism involved because it seems to me like the magnetism would spill out or something
Refreshingly clear while concise, thank you! Question: is it true that some of these motors draw a higher current while they're starting? Why is it so? Or is it common to all dc motors?
All electric motors draw a high current when starting. This is because once the motor starts to turn, it generates what is called "back EMF". The motor windings are still turning through a magnetic field which as you may know, causes an electric current. This current actually opposes the current you are putting into the motor. Because of this, the higher the RPM, the less current the motor draws. A stalled motor that is not turning will draw maximum current (voltage/ the resistance of its windings) that is why a stalled motor can get very hot and become damaged.
@@researchandbuild1751 very well, thank you. I have two 540 motors taken from handheld vacuum cleaners that behave differently. The one that is harder to rotate with my fingers pulls so much current when starting that my 12V power supply cant make it turn when I simply connect the leads to it. It does gradually start when I use a motor controller (555 timer+LM358 to create the square wave that turns on the N-channel Mosfet).
Hello. Great video. I’m wondering how hot would it get if you just left it energized for a long period of time? I’m theory would it just get too hot eventually and melt or explode?
Eventually the wire would get very hot and probably melt the coating that is in the wire. This would start to cause short circuit in the windings, making even less turns, etc or even causing more current to flow which could melt the wire entirely
Hello!My name is Terry Yuen. I am from DongGuan Cixin Electromagnetic Technology Co., Ltd. We are the Professional OEM/ODM factories ,specialize in deferent kinds of push-pull solenoid,rotary electromagnets,round solenoids for more than 9 years ,since found in 2014 in GuangdongProvince,in China. If you need customization, you can contact me using the following way: E-mail:cxywh@dgdct.com Wechat:terry20211116 Cell:+8618576811602 Web:www.dgcixinetc.com
I "got lucky" by finding a very similar rated one on Amazon (looked at the voltage and power handling ratings). I searched on Amazon for "temperature switch bimetallic" or similar. However, even the replacement only lasted about 8 months and the steam press is broken again, and this time I don't think it's worth fixing anymore unless I switched to an electronic thermostat.
Well this is the best repair video I've come across so far for my own press that is similar. I have a Pyle Digital Steam Press that just quit. Looks mostly the same but the temp is set by a digital interface on the centre hadel bit in-front of the locking mechanism. So I hope that's not the issue. I think I found the issue. Tip is broken off one of the elements. Now where do I find another?
Off one of the heating elements? Whoa that isnt fun. My press actually has stopped working again, the thermostat burned up again. I had plans to mod it to be electronic but my wife says she would rather get a different brand now
Thanks for the expert video. I have a brandy new Singer esp36T1 intelligent steam press-36 with electronic temp control instead of the mechanical dial. In watching the disassembly, it occurs to me that jostling the wires during manufacturing assembly could affect power distribution to the heat surface, since the centerline temperature is measured at 350 deg F, and 3” inside the ends is only 250 deg when the temperature is set for Linen 420deg. I used an IR gun like you did. Singer customer service is taking awhile to get back to me, but do you think the wiring/connections are the problem, or a temp sensor? Haven’t taken it apart yet, just wondering. No need to reply if you’re busy.
I would definitely think its more reliable with the electronic temp control but that will depend where they put the sensor. That does sound odd to have such a big temp difference over the surface, mine was pretty consistent, in this video there are four large heating elements , around the outside of the clamshell. I would not think it would be a wiring issue because for example in my unit the wiring is very solid and protected. I would imagine most are similar. It would quesrion them though why if linen says 420 why its only giving you 350. I guess they have a large margin of error!
I find that the .004 (from video) for determining RPM isn't accurate enough. Is there a way to increase the precision? I'm using Audacity and I can't figure out a way to get a more precise time measurement.
Try to increase the sample rate of the audio to increase the number of points of measure, most of the times we record audio at 48Khertz, increase it at double at least I don´t know if a I understand correctly your question
