I retired from my full time job of 25 years. As if this house/farm wasn't enough to keep me busy, I went out and got a part time job. This page is mainly electronics related, but I will occasionally add some mechanical work as well. Looks like now I will also add farm work and animals too. I'm still trying different cameras and editing methods to try and keep my videos as action packed as possible.
I have that exact radio. And on the LED on one side is dark. I can still see the frequency but it is major hard while driving at night. I can't find any Video on how to replace the LED.
I still have mine too. I used it back in the early 80's during my electrical/instrumentation training. To be honest it took me a while to change to digital. These are still being built today so that should speak to their worth. I was interested to find that the telephone techs used the Triplett 310. Good video.
Very nice presentation. Reminds me of my old slide rule days. Old school but they were very accurate as well. And you had to use your brain to read them. Also good! Thanks for sharing, Tim.
Thank you for posting this, Tim. I have one just like yours, and it works fine. Like yours, the integrated circuit work was not particularly attractive...very typical of that of the era. I am looking for a schematic for it also.
Thanks for the info! I hope it sounds decent when back together. Other than it being solid state it is reminiscent of the vacuum tube Tombstone Radios.
....Aw, real shame!! I have just about refurbished the self same meter, & its now working just fine!!! Mine just now has only a cracked meter glass, don't suppose you would be interested in selling your meter glass?? { They ain't too easy to find, these days!!?? } Cheers, Fred G4ZWI
No, there is an additional connector coming from the motherboard. I imagine even if you had the connector, the computer would need to be configured as well.
@@timtimeprojects3576 Well, I went ahead and I ordered a backlit keyboard anyway for my T560 and it plugged right in and worked perfect even though it originally had a non backlit keyboard.
I just bought a TS 2000 and it has five pin connector on silver eagle I like to connect it to the 2000. What is the connection to the eight pin connector?
The manual should call that out for you. There are some things you won’t need, like the frequency up and down or phantom power if the mic has a amp and battery.
Remember, the BFO couples to the IF chain via a “gimmick” capacitor on the schematic, which in real life is a pair of twisted insulated wires. You can vary the BFO coupling by futzing with the twisted wires.
Thanks. First time I ever heard of a gimmick capacitor I racked my brain looking for it. Then thought somebody cut it out and twisted the wires together. Your knowledge is much appreciated.
Hey Tim ! I have a Yanmar SC2450. Looks the same but yellow. My mower deck is same too. I don’t drive over my deck. I disconnect deck and pull it out on right side and leave mower wheels on to roll it around.
I’ve got a radio that looks just like that, but I don’t think it’s a replica. Edit: Please consider your viewers. Watching you run a knob while listening to nothing but static with no reason given for what you’re doing is frustrating for those of us watching. You could have deleted most of that footage, and the video would not have suffered any meaning.
I do agree. I did mention that the last half of the video was just tuning around. I would have edited it better but was fighting with my outdated computer for editing rights.
Oh. It looks like one of those cheap Chinese receivers. Is the background hum your workshop or the radio power supply. All the very best with the repair.
Most of the hum you are hearing is coming from a dehumidifier that doesn't want to be outdone by the air conditioner and the water pump. It's a new streaming camera, and the mic pics up everything. I am trying out different software to hopefully eliminate.
@@timtimeprojects3576 I WILL FINISH YOUR LAST SENTENCE **FOR** YOU: "the hum that is coming out of the radio speaker!!" Did i finish your sentence right?
Hey Tim and others, would replacing the power supply be the fix? What exactly is broken here? Mine has the same problem of flashing on plugging it in after a power outage. Is it something in the power circuitry or the supply itself?
What you have there is one of the last pot metal casting microphones they made before they quit making them (aka junk). The older D-104's were very good quality, not pot metal, the screws holding it together were real, and the front and rear plates were machined and had a perfect flat mirror refection. Even the Silver Eagle reflection was perfect and did not look like the reflection of a fun-house mirror. Hopefully you saved the original element and didn't crush the foil, they can be repaired. Also, you may have trouble with the contacts not working properly all the time, this is also because the latest versions, like the one you have there used crappy contacts. Sorry to be so negative, but it's the truth. If you like the look of the D-104, find yourself an old one. You can tell if its old by examining it to make sure that the front plate is actually a separate plate that is removable and that the reflection in the back plate is a flawless mirror.
Thanks. I did keep the original element ( actually I had to replace it around 1980 due to over experimenting as a teen). This element came from the Astatic Store, so it’s a keeper. Other than looks, I am not a big fan of the newer ones either.
@@timtimeprojects3576 I didn't meant to hate on you, it's companies that use to make quality products and then go cheap that irritate me. I've had about 100 of these over the last 40 yrs and still have more than 25 of them and I have seen where they came from and how they went south. Anyways, have fum tinkering, that's how we learn.
I have the Icom 7200. The power cord has dual blade fuses. Over time the fuse blades oxidise and the power drops off. Clean the blades on the fuses and power restored
The practice of putting two resistors in parallel is to up the total wattage. When these were sold, it probably made sense rather than supplying a high wattage single resister, as the ones used were likely already in stock and cheaper.
I changed the belt in my dryer today and when I checked to see if the drum was spinning with the door open I saw the orange glow and thought I now had an overheating problem. I guess because we're not used to seeing what goes on inside the drum when it's running. It definitely put me in panic mode. Thanks for sharing your video and relieving my fears.
I was having similar weird behavior. I tried resetting the connectors. Then found your video. The same pin on mine had a cracked solder joint. I cleaned off the old solder and resoldered the whole transformer and it's fixed! Thanks for this quick video.
You forgot the little fuel filter in front of the water separator filter, it comes in the Yanmar kit........that one is not so fun, next time I will clamp the inlet fuel hose so fuel does not run all over, it's a gravity feed.
what you have is a 40 g m r s radio and you forgot to tell the world you need a LICENSE to use and the radio need's to be set up to a G M R S tower then you can come up and play in my house.
The V4 has a built in up-converter and works much better than direct sampling method in receiving in those bands. It's even slightly less expensive than the V3. An external up converter or an SDR that's designed for that frequency range will also work better than this method, but will cost extra.
Greetings Tim, Thanks much for the Vid! Have the same Model 20 guts in a Model 220 (has phonograph). Can you share with me your part source (Caps and Resist)? This will be my first radio project as the noob that I am. If you could share the Filter Condenser cap polarization source or details, that would help a lot. In fact, any directional for capacitors would be helpful along the way. Best, MoxieBella
Welcome and good luck. Like anything it just takes practice and you will do great. For the capacitors and resistors, I use “Just Radios” be sure to check out Mr Carlson’s Lab for a lot of information about capacitors and techniques. As far as the polarization on the filter cap, I found a redraw on the web and they were listed but the original canister I am pretty sure had non-polarized caps. The schematic should be here. philcoradio.com/library/index.php/service-info/early-schematics/
