Scrap Metal Works is about tinkering in my garage to improve, modify or create tools and machines mostly out of scrap or very cheap materials and components... just for fun
So I'm doing this, and am at the point of fitting the cage back on over the stacked bearings... seems the stacked bearings are .3" too tall! That is the entire height of the exposed inner race/collar of one of the bearings. Can't just "lick" that much off. Now I'm stuck.
There is a video from 12 years ago. That is a four part series that is excellent. I’m only watching this one because I wanted to see if anything had changed since then. I think I have a newer transmission than the one he was rebuilding by about 10 years.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I followed all the steps in your video. Cleaned, vacuumed and used fine sandpaper on the three rods. I didn't really do anything significant but it has been a week now with no more error code 12.🤞
If it doesn't start on the 2nd pull... you need to let the compression equalize before trying again or the kickback will take your arm off. Those tires are known for leaking Very easy to snap off those valve stems. The tires come off the rim easily. However the rim must be clean ans smooth or it will leak. Based on the engine serial number... some used a gasket and some used form a gasket.
A second Sutech video. Awesome. Another helpful hint. It's 99% impossible to fill that gearbox with #30 motor oil. Put the 6 oz of #30 oil in a pull-out spout oiler. Makes the job extremely easy.
I can give you a lot of helpful hints. Leaking tires and tires off the rim are common problems. Sometimes a tube is best. To get the tire in your video to reseat.... you take a a ratcheting strap and put it in the center of the tire and crank it a few times. A quick shot of air should reseat the tire. Don't overfill with strap on or it won't come off.
Thank you for the advise. I think I managed to figure out the transmission oil amount and how to fill, engine start is not a problem. the last item I haven't resolved are the front tires. I did manage to re inflate them but they go flat again and quickly. I would like to put in tubes but I have not been able to find them them small enough for those tires. Would you know what size and perhaps a source? Thx
Good to see another Sutech video. There are several guys that have posted videos with dedicated problem resolutions. I have one that I've done a lot of work on. Maybe we can help each other. I do have all the manuals but mine is not electric start. The gearbox uses #30 non detergent oil.
I had this issue and I though it was the speed of the motor but it turned out to be the direction of rotation of the motor which is not the same from motor to motor. So just switch the red/black wires of the motor and try again.
I done a predator 212cc swap or repower10 years ago on my Cyclone Rake Commercial as i used the Rato non Hemi engine as the muffler was my problem as i used a elbow off a junk 208cc snowthrower engine as i had to cut and bend the muffler pipe and add a muffler deflector as its what i did at the time as today i should get a Briggs & Stratton XR950 muffler with the wire shield and deflector from Jack's small engines as they are $69. same thing if you put in a Honda GX200 commercial grade engine the muffler is the problem as taryl fixes all calls it the Muffkin. watch his video Trac Vac engine swap won't fit big problem. it shows how he modified a hemi 212cc engine to fit a Trac Vac to replace a worn out Briggs & Stratton Intek engine. My Cyclone rake was a tecumseh engine as it had carburetor issues as Tecumseh is no longer in business and the parts are no longer available as its not worth repairing the engine as the predator engine is the cost effective way to go. as today Cyclone Rake only gives you a Briggs & Stratton XR950 208cc engine as its problems a plastic camshaft and the compression release goes out on it as the predator 212cc is the way to go if you get the Briggs & Stratton XR950 wire guard muffler and deflector for the Cyclone Rake application as well as the Agri Fab vacs
If the spacer is worn or too short add washers like @glowell did in the comments to help lock shaft to inner race. If the end nut is only tightening the washer on to the end of the shaft, then spacer is too short. It is the squeezing of the nuts on the shaft ends that locks the pulleys and spacer to the inner races and the key locks the shaft to the pulley. Therefor, LOOSE END NUTS or SHORT SPACERS ALLOW SHAFT TO TURN INSIDE THE BEARING! Hope this helps someone. First try tightening the end bolts with an impact or add washers and you shouldn't have to resort to this.
Surely it would be possible for me to add several switches in parallel to the same board if I wanted to monitor for example several hydrophonic plants in one location?
I am a plumber and I hate when people put this in. Old gas tanks are brilliant. 7 years of use pay $500 for replacement two parts and you good for another 7 years.
Unfortunately a new water heater costs more than $500 times specially with the forced vent plus labor to install of course. But more importantly an always on water heater consumes a lot more fuel than tankless as it is always on even during the day when hot water use is little to none. Yes the tankless are more expensive but long term more cost effective.
I see this video is about three years old now, how is the PVC holding up? Is it possible to go to a smaller diameter of pvc pipe so I can streamline the table a bit? I think you did a great job with it.
The PVC pipe is working great. Like I said before you can stand on top of schedule-40 PVC pipe without any issue with the force concentrated on a small section. Same concept here so no issues. Yes you could use a smaller section but I wanted to feed the extension cord without cutting it so that could be a consideration. Also a smaller diameter may be a more flexible than the 2” so brace it inside the flip top just past the opening so the section that turns is nice and rigid. Thanks.
I have three different codes at different times. I have the same process to do as well. The only different thing that Rheem recommends is to clean the orifices with a wire but not to break inside the orifices. There's a brass nipple at the end of orifices. That one is for code 13. That's the problem I'm having. Rheem says to clean all of them with a wire, especially the brass nipple. Hope this helps for anyone out there. I will try also. Great video
Nice station! For preventing the legs from folding, you could drill a hole through the plywood and leg below the pivot bolt, maybe 2 inches down. Then you can slip a retaining pin through the ply and the leg. You could even go so far as to get lynch pins that can latch in place when installed. Add a retaining strap/cable to each, and you will never lose them either.
Great vid. Hey, why can't the safety plastic thermo sheets be replaced? I have a nice heater with one burnt spot that I have heard I must just throw away. That hurts my feelers.
I also had the same problem some days after I replaced the broken o-ring of the side brush. The robot always tried 3 times to start and I got an error with a red led light. I saw that the lidar didn’t turn. So I thought about replacing the flat cable from the motherboard to the lidar or the lidar motor or the big lidar o-ring. Because of that I wanted to find out if the lidar motor turns and just the o-ring is worn. So, I started the robot without the main cover. The lidar didn’t turn. So, I tapped it with my finger counterclockwise and it started to turn again. Now the robot works again without replacing anything.
I'm working on the same thing for our 2014 Beetle right now. Have you shared the 3D print file anywhere so we can also print a crispy new USB panel? TIA!
Thanks for the video. I want to get this done but have a different take if you allow me. Recently set up quite a few leak sensors to detect leaks and so used one for my aquarium to keep an eye on my top off pump dumping water in it. The only issue is the leak sensor is splashed so often with water from air bubbles and fish themselves. I was thinking what if I snip off the leak sensor from the hanging type end and attach the float sensor to it. i havent considered power requirements etc here at all. Just a thought....
I know you have a lot of time invested with the muffler. But I believe a muffler from a B&S OHV (Honda clone) fits. In fact, all new current Cyclone Rakes come with a B&S XR-950 engine.
Oh yeah I see that now and the aftermarket are only about $20. The intake pipe is curved more than the original effectively moving the muffler closer to the spark plug and making it inline with the engine side where the shaft is which was my problem. My modified pipe works fine now and no point in changing it but good to know. Thanks!
The burner burns low stage whenever there isn’t a large demand of hot water. The other side of the burner relights whenever the demand increases/high demand
I had a code 11 and it turned out to be clogged gas manifold ports. Rheem techs never mentioned this to me or the installer. Works great now. Unit is 7 years old and heats the floor in my garage. Rheem techs should have known. Kept telling me to replace parts even though they diagnosed fine.
Great series! Thanks for documenting it so clearly - I just bought that same tractor - everything still working but really tired and dirty with 800+ hours. So probably will do the same job. Glad you got it all figured out, and perfect timing for me.
Thanks for your time sharing the troubleshooting steps. I had the same low water pressure when brewing. I descalled, no success. I replaced 1 small broken o ring in the orange cylinder, no success. I disassembled the water pump pressure relief valve, nothing looked wrong or dirty but after putting it back together my issue was fixed! A correct brewing pressure was back. After hours of investigation it feels so good. I hope it helps. Good luck folks.
Don’t use Harbor Freight wheels as they broke very fast. I ended up getting them from Tractor supply at double the price but worth it as they are much stronger and turn better.
