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I have tried this a couple of times. Dumped out some of the yeast and trub and then racked next wort on the leftover yeast cake. Second beer turned out great!
I usually do this with the liquid specialty yeasts I purchase ( I'm a cheap guy). I use the yeast about 3 times and then toss it all. Probably would be fine to use more,but it's peace of mind. I wash the yeast between uses,I feel it removes some of the spent flavors.
In the middle of the night, my shaft assembly leaked about 10 beers on the floor. When I woke up, it was not leaking I clean my system very well what could be doing this? I have changed the shaft out on this next keg . I’m guessing it was a bad O-ring
That would be my guess too. You can always add a bit of keg lube to the rubber washers too, which should help seal them, but it's best to replace with new if possible.
Hi great video! I brought these parts however i was unable to locate the cap and the thread extender to overcome the cap not fitting issue. Your links don't go to these parts. Are you able to update for links to the thread cap and the thread adapter. Much appreciated. thanks!
Thanks for letting me know those were not on there! I updated the video description to include them now, but here are the links if that is easier for you! 3/4 threaded coupling (3/4 threaded to 3/4 threaded): amzn.to/4fDVd2e and 3/4 male PVC plug: amzn.to/4fDV6Um
Can’t wait to taste the 1st beer I made with this method in a few weeks. I placed the wort directly in the previous FV and I enjoyed the reduced cleaning/sanitizing during the brew day.
I dunno if erring on the hot side of things with your strike water is a good idea. If you get the mash too hot, you end up with unfermentable dextrin sugars, which can result in a stuck fermentation, as I found out with my last brew. . .
The point is it's easier to cool down with a few ice cubes than it is to heat up. If you're short... You can cool it down relatively quickly with a handful of ice cubes
The same way. You would put the gas on the beverage out line so it goes down to the bottom and pull the pressure relief valve. Only do short bursts for the gas to go down to the bottom. And wait for it to release all the pressure and repeat.
Would this apply for a soda as well? I’m currently trying to carbonate a water mixture for a cannabis infused soda. In a side note would a water soluble surfactant cause the foam when dispensing @ 10psi?
Yes it would work if it is over carbonated. For soda, you must have a lot longer serving line for the higher pressure to keep the carbonation in the drink without foaming.
Leaks have gotten me a few times. They've never been in the same spot either. The last one was in the ball lock disconnect poppet. Using bottled Star San and submerging parts in water are great tips.
I never had serious problems or explosions, but the first time I saw my airlock getting filled with gunk, I turned to google and learned of the blow off tube. I simply ran a 3/8" tube from the grommet on my bucket lid to a quart Mason jar half filled with water. Easy peasy. After doing this, I couldn't find a reason to use the airlock again, so now I just use the blow off tube every time.
Can you tell me a few reasons why my abv is always much higher than calculated? I weigh out my grains and everything but my OG is always higher and my FG is always much lower giving me almost always a 6.0 to 6.3 ABV when it was supposed to be a 4.5. Not really complaining but want to know what I’m doing wrong. Make Mosley lagers or sudo lagers and use nova lager yeast
What software do you use? My guess is you may have the brewhouse efficiency way low, like 65% when you may be getting 75% efficiency from your process. If that is the reason, you are brewing with more grain than you need to. That would explain why you're over the expected gravity. Also lower mash temps in pilsners make more consumable sugars for your yeast, therefore it makes the beer dryer and ends up at a lower final gravity. Hope that helps.
I use brewgr. The efficiency is set to 75%. To be honest I have never paid attention to that , thought it was a default setting. So you’re saying it needs to be set to 65 ? I usually mash my lagers at 152. Do you have a video on efficiency of some kind ? Had no ideal you could change that really didn’t know what it meant
No, you shouldn't change it. 70-75 is typical for homebrewers. You should try and put your same recipe in something like Brewer's friend. I use that and it's pretty accurate. See if you get the same expected original gravities and ABV with the same amount of grains. I use brewgr for their mash sparge calculator, but not for my recipes. That's a good idea to do some video on efficiency, what you have to do is take a hydrometer reading pre-boil after your mash at full volume, and another one at the end of your boil for your original gravity. There are efficiency calculators out there that can tell you the percentage that your brewhouse is like this one www.brewersfriend.com/brewhouse-efficiency/
Ok i check that out. Like you I use the brewgr for sparge volume as well . I learned to brew almost exclusively from your channel and use a refractometer like you but wonder sometimes how accurate it is so maybe I will start using the hydrometer for boil as well as after fermentation. I tell everyone who wants to learn brewing to watch your 8 step videos you have. I probably watch each one 10 times but was worth it. Thanks keep up the good work
@@dewaynereid4839 I use a refractometer still before fermentation before and after boil, that is completely fine. No need to use a hydrometer until alcohol is present.
For BIAB or all in one method, would you just put the dark grains in the last few minutes? Or still mix in with the room temp sparge water and then add it?
I would still mix it in the room temp water, then add the whole thing in the last few minutes. That will help release some of the color in the room temperature water first.
In my case, I needed a new burner anyway, but yes you can carefully drill it out. The tricky part is making sure you're perfectly straight up and down so you don't have jagged edges inside of the orifice. The best thing to do is use a drill press and not a hand tool.
Hey CSB been a minute! My keezer is done and my 65lt brew kettle just arrived! I'm really hoping the install on these springs is the same as on the Nuka tap since i cant find a video apart from yours! Is there a live this sunday? If all goes well ill be pouring from a tap for the first time then!!😂
