Homesteading on bare land. We moved out of the city and purchased 40 acres of farm land on top of a very windy hill. The simple country living with the family is very rewarding. We built an off-grid cabin, outhouse, and planted a garden. tiny home life. We have some alternative energy of solar power and wind turbine now and will be expanding in the near future. The acreage has a small creek running through the property which has been fun for adventures and stories. Our golden-doodle lily has been a joy out here on the homestead and fits right in with several cats, chickens, and local swans that live within view. Our chicken coop and barn has been the most recent additions and you will see some fun woodworking and carpentry skills as we expand the growing and self-sustaining homestead.
Thanks so much for your video! Just patched up the old inner tube on my wheel barrow that's holding, but could not have re-installed it properly without your help. Cheers!
Looks nice, and great to get your kids building. I guess wind storms, lots of rain and mosquitos are not a problem in your area. That build on my property would not last a season
I have Emisar d4k Sofrin sp36 Sofrin sp 10 pro Sofrin hs41 (headlamp) Acebeam pokelit (AA) Thurnite saver (AA) And always lokking to get more, i just ordered some keychain lights from emisar, just twisty lights that take a singla AAA, going to hand them out to friends and family And i want to pick up a second headlamp so i have one to loan out as well as mine, but no clue which one i want to get yet, been looking at the armytek wizard c2 but havnt decided yet I personally like anduril 2 lights, and my main 3 are anduril, but i need to get some easier to use ones for lianers because you cant teach everyone anduril or anduril 2
10mins on and 15 minutes off equates to 9 hours and 45 minutes of irrigation per day. My aeroponic towers need less than 25 minutes a day. Measure how much water the plants remove from the reservoir per day and you`ll find its a tiny fraction of the amount you are pumping through the tower.
Thanks for the vid. I made three fixed shelves from the floor to 7 ft, with adjustable shelves in between. The fixed shelves are affixed into my concrete wall with Tapcon screws and the top two shelves are supported further with 2x4 's going vertically from the previous shelves.
I can not find any videos about my specific way of installing mine. I did find other methods and a reason for the problem. Was hoping you could help or a viewer can. So I purchased the heated chicken waterer from FandH this winter. It's just a 5 gallon bucket with a handle, top, and the plug for the heater unit. These do have the water nipples installed on the side of that bucket, not the bottom like you have. This is nice for me because I don't have to hang the bucket. It just sets on the ground. So I purchased water nipples and a 5 gallon bucket to make my own. The package for the nipples does say to install the nipples to my spacing on the side of the bucket. So I did my first nipple. It was not leaking, did good. I continued to put in 4 more nipples around the bucket generously spaced. I added water just over the nipples. To make sure my threads didn't leak. They do not. My problem is all the nipples are now leaking from where the chicken would peck at. It's set up exactly the same as my water I bought from FandhH. So I looked online, and it says the nipples at that specific area will leak water if my water pressure is incorrect. But it was referring to then using PVC pipe and not a 5 gallon bucket like mine. So I can't figure out what I did wrong to stop the leak. Can anyone please help and let me know what to do? Now I have holes in a 5 gallon bucket I don't want to waste. But I prefer the nipples on the side and not under the bucket. Thank you!!!!!!!
The bucket might not be airtight allowing air in (not through the waterers) and causing leakage. Ideally you would all the nipples being on a similar level as the others as well if possible. If the leak is coming from the threads or if air is getting in through the threads then you could apply pvc cement or a water sealant to the threads and twist it back in place before it dries. I hope someone has helped you or you found a solution that worked if what I said doesn’t help.
You could have saved yourself a lot of measuring and marking for the repeated cuts by using a fence with your mitre saw and then using a stop block on it.
Thank you for sharing this. I think I might have spent 4 hours messing with the tire, then I saw yours. Found it a little hard at first, putting the inner tube in, but got there. Then disaster, when I came to put the little piece in where you put the air into, well mine turned out to want to go the other way. So, will have to restart it all over again,
I have an x350 2wd with chains and 4 weights and the 44 and it blew through close to 2 feet of snow the other day with little to no problems! Id like to upgrade to a 700 or 1 series eventually
what about the 2x4s from local HD/LW being crooked/twisted all over? do u still make them relatively 'straight' when just screwing 2gether like that? or u managed to get yourself straight/square 2x4 from somewhere else?
@@MAGAMAN *straight* can only b bought from a lumberyard where they can cut it 2 size 4 u. but then the price is exorbitant and u might b better off buying manufactured shelves instead.
Looks like a 3.50/4.00-8 inner tube is something you have to order over the internet as no one local seems to sell that size. I wonder how I handled these type of problems before the internet.
I see you used pocket screws to attach the shelf braces to the inside (wall) frame. Would you recommend using pocket screws to attach the braces to the outside frame as well?
DO NOT use pocket hole screws for this. They are extremely weak because you only have a very small amount of wood remaining. Build the "Box" for the shelf on the floor so you can put the screws in from the outside. Use smaller pieced of 2x4 in between the shelving and the floor/other shelves so the shelving is sitting on structure, and not relying on the screws to do all the work.
From my personal experience and what i was taught by very experienced hunters. The best kill is the very back of the rib cage. The animal is dead and bled out in seconds with the least chance of damaging any meat.
