No light bar is DOT approved. My truck now has factory platinum LED headlights and factory grill. Also, i dont work for no trucking company. The lights were just for when i go visit my parents, and im driving in the middle of the desert for 4-500 miles in a 900 mile trip at night so i think a cop would understand why id would want to use a proper set of headlights out there

@@alfredodiaz7350 I did not know that NO light bar is DOT approved, I have seen the details on many light bars & none that mentioned the DOT were approved. Almost exclusively, the mentioning of "for off-road use" is what you get. I can see the use of a light bar on the road IF you are in the middle of nowhere. Unfortunately, as with most things, if you build it, it will ultimately used...wisely or not. I 100% agree w/you Sir.

I did I recently did new upgraded BD manifolds

It is different if i remember right but i have some changes coming to my gauge set up i had before

Big one, fix the oil leaks, and do a few shake down events with whatever you got. Federal rs-rr tires great 200tw cheap beginner tire. You will flat spot the shit out of them until you learn how to control brakes at the limit, so go with a cheaper tire before buying expensive ones. Look at the rule book for mods. Suspension wise, maximum motorsports, steeda, and griggs are the only ones i recommend. MM and grigs have complete packages that you can piece together over time, but stay with one brand until you complete the set. Steeda can be sprinkled in here and there. Sn95 parts are cheap to get 5 lug and have bigger brakes. You dont need crazy 6 piston brakes. The cobra brakes are plenty if you want to get fance get the 4 piston cobra r set up. But big one remember you're new to it so do not compare yourself with the guys who dumped their kids college fund into their car and just try to make as many events possible and have fun. Ive seen old ratty cars beat 100k protouring cars 100 times so seat time is the funnest mod you can do as you are gaining more and more experience driving and understanding what one little mod will do to the cars handling vs tossing the checkbook at it.

@alfredodiaz7350 appreciate that info bro will definitely be on the lookout for your next videos!

Yessir slowly getting back in the groove of it but i will do my best to document every piece of the rebuild

@@alfredodiaz7350 what actually happened with the motor?

My steering wheel is suede, and i got tired of cleaning it. It will get swapped in the near future

I would recommend the one that truly goes to the bottom. This one is a hammock style so you need the seat down for it to fully reach if not theyll have these little handles in the floor theyll be laying on. Durability is great no issues with liquids especially on roadtrips. 4k9s has a better version of this i like better because you only need 1 vs the 2 i use.

@@alfredodiaz7350 thanks for taking the time to respond. I really appreciate it.

Theyre properly adjusted and our glc300 factory headlights are brighter than my trucks🤷‍♂️

Almost every modern vehicle comes with factory led or HID headlights. theres cars with brighter factory headlights than my truck. You just have to adjust them properly

I agree, my Platinum '13 F-150 came w/HIDs. Since then, aware of my advancing age and declining night sight, I installed full LED MORIMOTOs. I folllowed the instructions and did the job right and "aimed" them 2" low at 25'. They turn night in to day w/o offending oncoming or leading drivers w/misdirected/stray light. I have seen lights on cars & trucks that aimlessly throw light "sideways" due to cheap, poor-quality reflectors from OE manufacturers. The main problem w/so many lighting units is not brightness, but the very sharp line of "demarcation" between the dark, UNlit space & the lighted space. Over a bumpy, UNeven road, this can cause oncoming drivers to sense the lights are being "flashed" on HIGH beam by the oncoming driver. NOT good. The key is HIGH quality components...reflectors & lenses. The difference is quite apparent.

@louishealan7482 i researched even bulb design for the LEDs as well makes a huge difference even with stock housings. The instructions even tell you how to properly index them, but nobody ever reads those, i guess. My truck now has factory platinum headlights, and i could not tell the difference honestly Berwyn the aftermarket led bulbs in stock housing

Turn the wheels side to side while pressing the brakes multiple times with the engine on you'll notice it will whine at first, then go away

No, this is a 1986. It used to have a pushrod 5.0 with a vacuum booster now its got a coyote DOHC 5.0, and the old booster did not fit anymore so i had to convert to a newer style hydroboost

Its a joying audio single din head unit with the adjustable screen

@@alfredodiaz7350 thanks for the response! The tpms came with the stereo?

Built t56 and i just use the valvoline synchromesh fluid if i remember correctly

@@alfredodiaz7350 if its a standard trans, why do you change the oil so often ? never changed the oil in mine, but when it wasnt going in reverse i thought it was the trans. nope it was the clutch cable, mechanic told me the trans looked new!!!

It would take a lot more for sure a few stictch weld s would greatly increase the strength because what fails first are the spot welds and there are not very many of them

Thanks, I'm trying my best to get back into it again. I had a few I recorded, but I'm still in the process of getting a computer that can handle editing

Lu47s are perfect if youll be NA i run ID1050x injectors

@@alfredodiaz7350 why are you on 1050s? Are you boosted now?

Thank you! I appreciate the love 🙏

It came it the kit from Maximum Motorsports they may sell it separately if you check on their website or email them

At the time availability really everyone was out indefinitely due to the core shortage and they had claims they were comparable to comp cam stage 3s

I'm pretty happy with them and i had my friend sean caranham from MBT tuning tune it. Hes tuned multiple race cars and stand alones in the past thats why i went with him but ive debated on trying a lund tune soon

@@alfredodiaz7350 Facebook aedhp, he worked with l&m on development of those cams. He's a top notch coyote tuner

Thank you!

You can run the stock gt pedal assembly but with the MM pedal because i belive the ring that goes on the pedal is offset different

@@alfredodiaz7350 So it's best I grab a hole new pedal assembly I'm guessing. To get the new assembly installed I seen you would need to do some welding. I wanted to keep my coyote pedals and just run the hydroboost set up from MMS. Thnks myfriend I need to research a bit more to get more clarity. Thanks again for the speedy reply.

@@Diceman12100 no worries i re used my stock pedal assembly and the mm kit came with the adjustable pedal and it put it at the perfect height. Right now the clutch is the only one left thats un touched

@@alfredodiaz7350 Ok Thank you alot bro. I was kinda wondering could I run drum brakes with hydroboost somebody said yes. I will be upgrading in the near future. Just get the biggest upgrades out the way. So I ask you is it possible to run hydroboost with regular fox brakes.

@@Diceman12100 yeah drum brakes wont be an issue just get the little proportioning valve incase your fronts lock up early

Thanks man! Debating to make it the goal NA or just go boost

@@alfredodiaz7350 I'm always gonna say boost! But I'm bias 🤣🤣🤣.

Lmao my issue is the car is super balanced for racing but i want highway missle speed

@@alfredodiaz7350 shiii then boost is what u want. Or do a bottle.

Thank you!

Thank you! I tried making it sadly still having fuel issues but i got a fresh pump and rails in it so hopefully we can finish dyno tuning it so i can get back to racing the car🚗

Its pretty badass

Everything was flush and i did also swap out the regulator. The issue i just found out yesterday is were draining the passenger side rail causing that bank to go crazy lean. So there will be more upgrades later on

Im also on E85 so fuel demand is a lot higher