Thank you for taking the time to make this video. Was able to fix mine following your steps. Just like your video, my switch was fused, able to separate with the same style knife you used. Really appreciate it, thank you again.
The problem with mine was that the "ramp" the door locks ride up on were worn out enough to not compress the middle switch. This caused the fuse to blow when the unit was turned on. A new Latch Board [WB06X10610] fixed it.
My partner and I will be traveling to Michigan to stay at a lake house on Long Lake next week and I am planning to check this site out. Do you have any beta on the site such as preferred wind direction and speed? Is the site relatively consistence and reliable, or not? Thanks in advance!
Sorry for the delay in responding. The sites alone Lake Michigan require a western wind direction from ~8 to 14 MPH. To fly Sleeping Bear National Lakeshore requires registering at the Park Office, free and simple, just show them your USHPA card. They will give you a map. There is a club, Green Point Flyers, located near Frankfort. They have a nice launch and club site. There are also two good walk-in sites at Empire and another one in Alberta. Both sites are free and no registering is necessary. Check with Green Point Flyers for specifics. Hope you get in some great flights!
@@edwardlyon8169 thank you for the information! I was under the impression that Empire Bluff falls under the jurisdiction of Sleeping Bear Dunes and therefore requires registration…is that no longer the case?
@@Andyg2g Whoops! You are correct. Empire Bluff does fall within the jurisdiction of Sleeping Bear National Lakeshore. Registration with Sleeping Bear NL allows paragliding at both Sleeping Bear and Empire.
I am going to sleeping Bear Dunes this weekend... is there any advice you can give me before I go check out the sites? I am a fairly new pilot - was hoping to take a couple sledders and ridge/dune soar a bit.
Thank you so much for posting this video. I have already ordered a new switch and waiting for it to arrive. I found your video tonight and see that I need to check the 5.00 latch or I may blow the new 50.00 switch. Saving me time and money! The prior switch is welded together pretty good. Going to give it a shot at separating the welded connections. Thank you!
Were you able to separate the connections? I had to remove the parts on the original switch to separate the contacts but was able to make it work. Hope you were successful. Ed
@@edwardlyon8169 No. The contacts are really welded together. I am still working on trying. Looking to see if I can buy the parts somewhere. I am also replacing the hook latch in case there is a bit of wear. That seems to be a culprit in the fail of the switch.
Thank you. This helped immensely, i had just taken out the switch to look for a replacement went i cam e across your video. I fixed the switch and adjusted the door which was hanging a bit low and all seems good now. Thanks again.
Ed, I have a bad monitor switch and I did open it and free the contacts but I notice the pin that held the switch in place broke . I tried super gluing it but to no avail. when you say you changed the latch are you referring to the plastic white assembly that holds the switches or the latch hooks coming form the door itself.?
I had to change the latch hooks coming from the door. Mine had worn down and would no longer depress the toggle switch when it was closed. Thanks for watching and good luck repairing yours.
Thanks very much for this, Ed. The design of WCs need a complete rethink. It’s the next great revolution in thinking after we move to carbon neutral power supplies. The French knew about this all along, at least they did in 1987 when I last stayed at a cheap hotel in Paris, which had a hole in the floor to squat over. Now, I hear, they've succumbed to the standard badly-designed Anglo-Saxon raised seat, but it’s the Americans, apparently, who are leading the way in the new thinking.
Go Gamecocks - my bottom latch switch seems to activate, but when fully depressed, the switch opens back up and I have a bunch of melted plastic on the bottom - any clue what causes this to fail - the bottom switch mainly seems to supply 110V power to the HV Xfmr and power to the monitor switch which appears to provide power to the LV Xfmr. If you are in the Columbia, SC area, can you recommend any local parts supply stores that would have these switches in stock.
Hi Stan, You have a very interesting issue. The only thing I can suggest is to unplug the microwave and test the switch with a multimeter. Does the switch close and open as expected with the door open and then closed? It is possible the switch is defective. Can you open the switch to see if there is a defective part inside? (If it is melted, this will not work) There are no places in Columbia which sells these parts. Check out ebay, your best bet. I had to buy mine from GE online. If you can find an after market one, that is your best bet, especially if it melts again. Good luck. Ed
Very good. This video helped me with problem solving my microwave. I knew it was something along these lines and you steered me in the right direction!
Excellent Video, Thank you. Made one in two hours with shelving material that has been laying around for nearly 20 years. I knew it would come in handy at some point :)
The cut out to allow the squatty potty to fit under the toilet bowl is 8 inches long, 3 inches in the center, and 2 inches on the sides. It is concave. This cut out matches the toilet bowl in our home. Your toilet bowl may be different. You could use a piece of paper to cut out the actual size of your toilet and then use this as a pattern. Hope this helps.
Ed, thank you for the great video. I have a question, and if it was previously asked, my apologies. When you were measuring the first leg, you went 9" down to 8", which is understandable. What got me was you said to measure the top of the stool from that point... Seemed like a waste of timber. My question is why didn't you just measure 17" (8" of one side of the leg + 9" of the other side) and draw the line between the alternating measurements. Once one of the legs is cut, then all that is left to cut would be the straight edge, which would be the base of the second leg... then it would stand to reason that you would have no wasted off-cuts?
If you used your method the top of the stool would be straight on both sides. I angled the sides to reflect the natural position of the feet while sitting, toes pointing out. I used a 36 inch board and there was no wasted material, except the saw dust from the cuts.
Ah! The proof is in the pudding! If there was no wastage, then great! With the way I was explaining, there should be no wastage either. Imagine a 17" long plank with the corners labelled 1L, 1R on either end of one side, and 2L, 2R on the other side. The L's and R's denoting the left and right sides of the plank. Measuring out and drawing a line between the 9" along one of its long sides and 8" on the other long side would make a diagonal line. When this line is cut, you should get two symmetrical pieces. Thus on either piece of cut timber, one side should be straight, and the other side should have that slant, measuring at 8" on one side, and 9" on the other. With the full 36" piece of timber, the remainder of the plank would then have square angles all around. Sorry for the long winded explanation, but without diagrams, or a video, it is hard to explain what I mean. Keep up your great work Ed :)
+Luis Elias If I understand the question correctly you are asking about the angle of the two legs. You are correct that the stool slopes toward the front. The front is 1 inch shorter than the back. When cutting the legs, I cut the legs 9 inches on the top of the 3 feet board and 8 inches on the bottom. Be sure that the legs are on outside of the board. The piece in the middle, between the legs, is the top of the stool. Hope this helps. Ed
Thanks Ed, turned out great :D "Its only $25 dollars, just buy one." Well in Australia just the plastic one is almost $40USD with shipping costing an additional $20USD...that right USD! So just the plastic version costs us like $85aud atm :( Thanks again Ed!
The white cheap-looking plastic ones are about $25. The wooden oak ones, like the one in the video, are about $75. But it has nothing to do with money. Some people, like me, enjoy and take pride in designing and creating a good looking product.
