I do it all the time. You pull the motor and wheel out of the housing, wash the wheel, blow out the motor with compressed air and put it back together. Less than an hour
I had a similar Lasko fan. It was remote control. The motor would screech and eventually slow and bind up. Three times I disassembled it to get to the bearings and greased them up with moly grease. It worked for a few weeks each time and then failed again. I got maybe one extra year of use out of it and finally threw it away.
Yes, I know what you mean. Sometimes, I wonder if it's worth it. I've had to steal wool the shaft before it gets a little corroded. I appreciate your comment.
Yep, I worked as a kid in a 3 bay service station with 3 mechanics. My job during the fall was changing tires some days spent 8 hours days doing nothing else but working the tire machine. When I came across a tire that needed a repair due to a nail I would not only plug the hole but patch the inside as plugs do fail I found out. So it was a rule in our shop if you plug a tire take it off the rim and patch it. you might consider doing that just find a garage that with a tire machine and have them patch it.
How can it charge with out an alternator,stator,voltage regulator and just charging magnets. That stupid bracket is there so you dont stick your hand in there and cut your finger off.
Your problem is the ice maker needs to be in the freezer DUH! ice has to be kept more colder to stay ice! So who ever put an ice maker in an refrigerator ? Need their ass kick 🦵!! REAL TALK FOR THE ASS!! 42 yr old who loves jb
I have an old french door samsung, worked for over 10 years and started ice buildup, so far I found the thermal fuse is blown and the temp sensor is not working either. but it has not had any ice buildups before that. What I noticed is the defroster is WAY bigger 244watt vs 100-120watt that comes on the newer ones, so that prolly helps a ton. Will see if replacing the fuse and sensor solves the problem if not I'll prolly get the secondary silicone heater. The fridge was cheap and its a fun project (not my only fridge, but once fixed will replace mine)
I have a 230 voltage fan blower motor and it is a A o Smith fan blower motor and I was wondering on the wire diagram on the motor it says that the line wire is the yellow line wire and between it is the blue wire with a line between the yellow and blue wire would I hook those to wire to gather I have a 2 wire setup and I want to use the red wire for low speed.
Question 1: If I use a furnace blower for sucking out welding fumes in about 4 points of use, all at the same time, is that enough restriction to make the motor work hard enough (avoid free-wheeling) so it doesn't draw high amperage? Question 2: Should I design a filter to create some resistance, but also lower the amount of unfiltered, dirty, welding smoke that makes it to the fan blades?
Yes, I did build a metal box that the blower is mounted in. It is completely enclosed but with 8" duct ports on each side that line up with the fan diameter. The exhaust port is also the other hole in the case, same square size as the fan exhaust hole. Thanks for your video and input. I will measure the amp load when it is being used at each of the 3 speed line conductors. What do you suppose are safe amp loads? 1/2 hp Century motor. The filters are inside at the 8" ports. First is a metal pre-filter to catch any possible sparks, then a paper filter, merv 8. The filters are 10" x 10" x 1" thick each. They are mounted with metal pcs. to keep them in place and are easy to replace.
This is a direct drive motor out of a furnace that is figured for heat exchanger restrictions. Unlike Pulley driven motors. Direct drive motors need back pressure in order to run at its desired amp rating.
it is counterintuitive, but the power used is a function of the amount of air moved. take a shop vac or regular vacuum and block the intake with your hand. listen to the motor spin faster. no air movement. no or less work being done so less load on the motor.
It's all about load. The motor is going slower because of load. When you restrict the flow the load decreases causing the motor to run at a higher rpm. CFM is not really increasing but velocity is.
Thanks for your comment. Well, when I watch other videos, they seem to leave out some critical things if you have never done anything like this. Or if you're not mechanically inclined.
Well, so far, but I was out of town, and my wife said she heard the fan making a little noise again. I may have to add an extra heater, which is what I'm hearing some people have had to do.
I was lucky and just found one for 200.00. The guy was tired of working on it. Well, come to find out the starter was just stuck. Critters had built a nest. Great shape.
Try 1/2" X 69 Try Tractor Supply. If it is wrong, you will be able to exchange it. That's the size my research comes up with. All I had to replace was the deck belt . If I remember right, it was a 77". Hope this helps.
great video, I have a question on removing a jet. Im trying to remove a 2" waterway jet. I turned it counter clockwise until it shut off and then a bit more. it will not come off. I tried on the jet next to it and it came off. I twisted the jet back to the right and then to the left and its really tight and will not come off. Any thoughts?
Can you reach both sides at the same time, hold one, and turn the other one counter clockwise . If I could see it, it would help more. If you did one of the same size it should work the same. Best of luck. Take your time and take a good look at it. You can do it.
You probably should have done that instead of going to the tire shop. Being as you knew how to plug it . Since your the owner of the vehicle and the individual doing the repair. The liability is all on you... be a blow out from the plug failing or merely walking out to a flat tire. Where as you should look at the position of the tire shop. They measure tread depth and look at the age and condition of the tire. In addition to it being a front tire. Liability is on them if for any reason the plug fails... a blow out occurs... cord seperation. At which point you would hold them accountable for a new tire. Or heaven forbid anything worse occurred caused by the tire. Ten year old tires regardless of how you view them. Are affected by ten years of use along with weather. The video is not real clear however if the wear bars are showing that indicates time for new tires. Either way you have to respect the tire shop. To maintain a standard of safety first. Plus the position of liability they face. After ten years, you have gotten your monies worth from those tires. Might be time to invest in a new set and hope for another ten years. Small price to pay to be safe.
Seriously, The only reason I went to them in the first place was because they would have patched it from the inside. I didn't want to plug it. And I had just bought the truck from a dealership. And if I had the money, I would replace them, don't you think. You must work or own a tire shop. They just try to sell tires any way they can. But thanks for your concern for the tire shop.
@@Roadhvac Yes and you are welcome. I was in the tire business for many years dating back to the early 70's. I hope you got the price down for needing new tires. To much liability issues today and shops are not going to budge. To many customers who fuss and get the repair to come back and demand a new tire. We used to install tubes. Not anymore. Some shops have good used tires at very affordable prices. Just a way to help the customer until they can purchase a new set. But don't blame the tire shop. Blame the customers who cried and fussed for a new tire . When they were told it was time for new ones and they refused. Liability and cost. But yes many years ago. We patched tires plugged tires stuck tubes in them with a patch. But not anymore.. and I have had customers come in with bald tires showing cord who insisted there was plenty of life left in the tire. Not anymore. Btw... motorcycle shops are even stricter. They will not service the bike. If the tires are worn to far. Unless you purchase new tires you are out of luck.
Ron Thompson is right. A 10 year tire age cut-off is more than reasonable for a professional tire shop to deny tire repair services (a prudent business risk management measure). Anyone that has ever ran a successful business knows that risk management is essential, especially in the litigation happy world we live in. Liability lawsuits can crush a company. Regardless of any customer perceived "they just want to sell me a new tire" conflicts of interest, professional shops are duty bound to give professional advice to customers, while protecting the shop's interests. Also, properly inspecting a tire involves much more than simply noting the remaining tread depth.
The biggest problem I’m seeing is that I can get the parts but people want such insane amounts for just a flywheel that I could get an auto start generator for less than it would cost to modify my current generator. It’s almost like people think these flywheels are made of gold or something. Better off waiting for a scrap motor to turn up or just buying a slightly newer generator or simply pull starting it as is.
