My channel focuses on car repair tutorials for the cars that own. You'll also find reviews of products I enjoy using, and some videos detailing how I've made the most of my small garage space. If you're looking for a video and don't see it here, drop me a comment or a message and I'll see if I can help you out! If you like written write ups, head over to my DIY Auto profile. All my videos are posted there and include written instructions. I do my best to answer every comment and help anyone who needs it, so reach out if you have a question!
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@@BrianG-x4u Is it possible you didn't get a good reading? Because with a reading that low I'd assume there's a dead cell. Is it higher once the car is running?
I thought of the same thing, the leather is probably better. I did try and oil it before replacing it and it was just too far gone. I think it shrunk too much to make a good seal.
@@StevesGarage Yeah, that's common after sitting for years. If you soak it in oil for a few min with it spread open, it should work like new for a few more years. I use neatsfoot oil, but any non vegetable, light oil works ok. The neoprene cups are ok, but aren't as easy to restore once they lose their original shape. I have a lot of Coleman stuff. When I get one with a neoprene cup, the first thing I do is make and install a leather one. But I'm admittedly a bit OCD and getting old. A bad combination, I'm told...... haha!
I have the same ECS kit for my mk1 TT. The tube seems to be very wobbly and doesn’t want to seat down correctly. I think it’s because the o-ring got pushed all the way down into the tube when trying to fit. I guess I’ll have to fish it out. I’ll update my comment if I find a fix!
When I first installed I had the same problem. You might not have seated it correctly. Give it a couple good hits with a hammer and block of wood and see if that fixes it.
@@StevesGarage I will give it a go, thanks! I also think I installed the o-ring improperly, I pushed it all the way down the new tube prior to trying to mount it. Not sure if that is the right way or not
@@MrBoosted6000 I feel like I pushed it pretty far in there with my finger, though maybe if it's too far it doesn't sit right. Can you get it out with a pick tool?
Hey, I want to mount Thrones too. I got these and I noticed that they don't come with screws or pegs... I want to drill through a hard concrete wall to mount these. Any advice ?? And what types of screws and anchors did you end up using ? Thanks
You'd use concrete anchors or screws as opposed to the drywall anchors I used. In the past I've used tapcon screws to secure things to concrete, those should be more than enough for these shoe cabinets.
I agree with your findings, especially re diverter valve. I couldn’t get it to fit in the stock location with my car. Overall, disappointed in the fitment. Wouldn’t buy again.
This is the only comments like this I’ve seen.I ran into the same tire situation you’re describing when I borrowed my brother-in-laws car,especially the hydroplaning. I checked the pressure,-it was 65 psi ! Maybe you just bought a car with over inflated tires.
I only locked the pulley, so you're right, I didn't lock the VVT. I don't think I took it out of alignment though. I never had any issues running or a CEL associated with VVT not functioning properly.
I bought all my bulbs from FCP Euro. If I remember correctly most are the short bulbs. The gear shift gets a unique one, and if you have electronic climate control it gets the long style.
I've never used one. Many more modern cars can retain some level of information even when disconnecting the battery. My 2000 Volvo will remember radio presets and seat memory settings.
@@elementn4107 Then go for it I guess? I've never had an issue with a car not running properly after a break in power so besides retaining the clock, trip, and radio presets I'm not sure why you'd need it.
Thanks for a very informative video. Very rarely do you find the videos that show all the tools necessary to do the job and you did a great job in explaining The tools necessary for the job. Your voice is very clear and the video is shot very well. Can I add just one small piece of advice?.... The MK4 golf is available in automatic and in stick shift. From the beginning you are not clear about either, though I do know the difference but some of your viewers might not.
Thanks for the great comment! When I made and posted this video I was not aware of the differences in axles between engines and manual or automatic transmissions. I did pin a comment explaining that it's for a 1.8t manual transmission after realizing there are some differences. I've done my best to be more clear about that in more recent videos since I don't want to misleading anyone. I appreciate you watching and commenting, cheers to someone else keeping MK4s alive!
@@StevesGarage you rock. Thanks for a clear and understanding video. Most videos I see just show the work and not the tools. You did a great job setting up the viewer for success. Keep up the good work 👍🤙👍
@@RonFoster-i8b Thanks so much! I really appreciate the comment. According to the watch stats most people skip over the tool part, but I keep including it because it's what I've always looked for in videos. I just try to make videos that I would want to watch when doing a job.
This method does work very well but a word of caution. The steering knuckle which is being used as the bolt anchor is a cast part not designed for a lot of side load. A severely stuck rotor might create enough resistance to actually bend (or crack) the bolt tab on the knuckle - have had this happen and turns a relatively simple brake job into a much more involved repair.
@@StevesGarage Very stuck, indeed - I should have been more patient and taken more time with the tighten, loosen, rotate, repeat cycles. Still an effective method, for sure - just don't get too aggressive with bolt torque and apply liberal penetrating spray if the rotor is holding tight.
I would mark the holes at the top of the keyhole opening since that's where the cabinet will rest on the screw. As for size of screw and anchor, I used #8 screws and the corresponding anchors. They were pretty light duty, maybe 25lbs a piece. But the cabinets don't weight much and neither do the shoes. Plus I'd be using 4 of them, so I they've worked out great.
I highly recommend it. Keep an eye on the Swedespeed forum, ebay, and even local junk yards. They're worth it for the better beam pattern and it definitely cleans up the look!
Funny so my rear brakes just never worked, good thing Im heavy footed, i only started noticing this be because it feels like my car takes far more excessive force on the pedal to brake, and i notice the front rotors are how they are suppose to be and since the car has sat for a while, i drove maybe 1k miles, and the rear rotors having rust, but the rust has yet to disappear despite that much driving
this is my issue I am facing with the O'rielly axles I got for my v6 charger. they clunk when putting car in gear and front ones clunk all the time. they are terrible. ugh
@@StevesGarage how did you learn how to rebuild them? I need to learn. There are no good options for me other than factory and they are super expensive
@@09fatbobmike I watched a couple different videos on it, and then made a video myself! Axles can be different, so that's the biggest issue with watching videos if it's not exactly the car you're working on. With the right tools, (mainly a hammer and punch) it's not bad. The biggest thing is the mess. CV axle grease just gets everywhere so you definitely need gloves, towels, and brake clean.
I don’t want to remove wallpaper ever again as long as I live. What a total nightmare. Thanks for the videos! Just as tedious as what I’m dealing with.
100% the same. It's truly the worst. I have a similar situation in my kitchen and basement stairwell with painted over wallpaper. I'm not looking forward to the day I decide to tackle it.
@@StevesGarage mine was slipping third to second, rough and delayed shifts, and would slip and throw a wrench light. Five minutes later it would just completely die. No power, battery light on. My step dad has years of experience with ford eco line vans and he had the same issue. He told me you’d be surprised how much a MAF sensor can affect how your transmission behaves. Simple easy fix, I did it myself yesterday for under $100.
Sorry you're having so much trouble! When I did the bulb on this car one tab broke, so I'm sure all these years later where the plastic is much more brittle doesn't help. If the bulb is stuck in the socket try a pair of pliers or some silicone grease.
@@RacecarsAndRicefish Just took a look at your channel to scope out the car... sorry to be the bearer of bad news 😅 52mA certainly isn't terrible, but I'd look into it. Maybe you just have a bad ground or something wired a little funky.
@@StevesGarage I've gotten it narrowed done to one fuse and it looks like there's only a couple things that run off it-- I'll have it solved in no time 😎 thx for this video
@@StevesGarage Im finding 48 - 52 mA, then I disconnect my 4 aftermarket gauges and it drops to 20.5mA, then I additionally disconnect my radio and I see 19.3mA. So one or multiple of my aftermarket gauges are the main issue. I might just have them run entirely from switched power? they'll forget their most recent color but that's fine lol
