Thanks for these excellent instructions. One QUESTION: Is it possible to get a deeper Orange Peel texture on the Gelcoat? I am patching a bathtub floor that has an orange peel texture on the floor for a semi-nonslip feature. But the orange peel is about 4 or 5 times deeper than the one shown in your video. So for that section of the patch I need to have a deep orange peel texture. I thought you might have some ideas on how to do this (HVLP gun with 2.0mm nozzle - but I also have smaller nozzles)? Thanks again for this excellent video !!
Take a look at this video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3i0EkkAfFHI.htmlsi=kNWBKhRRU9agVTLO If you gelcoat the bathtub floor then let it cure for a half hour or so, you can drop the pressure on your paintgun and open the paint valve fully it might be enough texture to match what you're after. Probably best to test it on a scrap piece of plastic or painted wood first.
Why do you you want to achieve orange peal ,when i was always told that it is someting to avoid because then , you have to sand ? thank you for your answer..
Gelcoat isn't like paint. It has to go on thick enough, or it won't cure. For those that don't have a thickness gauge, the orange peel finish let's you know that you're thick enough for a proper cure.
This shit is fake as fuck. I shoot one gaurd facing the other an then immediatley after shooting the other one an dropping him but not killing him somehow everyone is alerted? An it was raining an thunder. Smh the guy didnt even get to say 1 word
No, you'd have to sand and polish to get it smooth. You can add high gloss additive to make it much smoother but you'd still have to sand and polish for a bright smooth finish.
You don't need to, I was just doing it to show that it's possible. You can set your escape point to anywhere, then as you get out of the compound, just run (or take a motorcycle) to the far left, jump in water and swim away from the island to end the heist. It's alot faster than trying to get to the yellow dot outside the compound.
It took me a few tries to learn how and where you can do it, but it works every time now. If you don't have the aggressor as a weapon load out, it's the only way to take him out if you're doing it by yourself.
It's a generic hvlp spraygun. Tip size is 1.8mm. I use it for both paint and gelcoat. If you're just going to use it for gelcoat or if you want best results, order in a 2.2mm needle, nozzle, and aircap.
@@Mofiac Thanks I'm doing a few boats here and I've been spraying cars for 47 years so I think I know what I'm doing I just needed that bit of advice cheers
Good to know. Just remember, gelcoat needs to be at least 18mils thick in order to cure properly. That's like 3 times as thick as car paint. If you're spraying the gelcoat as the final step, make sure to add a wax additive or the surface won't cure properly. If you're going to layup over the gelcoat after spraying, or you want to respray over the gelcoat, do NOT put wax additive in the gelcoat. Good luck.
As soon as I get to the basement, grabbing the main loot, the alarm gets activated instantly. Im not triggering or overheating anything. Is it because I kill the guy at the main door where you leave the area? Cheers good vid
It could be. That guard could be shot, but only if he isn't near the stairs (close to the panther cage) or near the grey car. When you take the primary, a new guard appears behind the grey car and his cone will spot anything close to the car. Another guard spawns in front of the panther cage and faces the stairs leading to the main gate courtyard, where the yellow escape ring is. Hope that helps and thanks for watching. The guards I'm referring to are at 4:05 and 4:12
At 9:50 you can just go forward, turn right past the car and head straight for the office stairs once the red guard moves, no need to walk all the way around
Thanks for mentioning that. I'm used to spawning in from the drainage tunnel, so I wanted to work my way back there first. I'll try your way next time.
Did you have the bolt cutters with you? I've opened this gate with the cutting torch and had the alarm go off, but it hasn't gone off when I use the bolt cutters.
@Mofiac yes i used the bolt cutters i didn't have cutting torch at first i just found out how to get it, and thanks a lot for the video it was really helpful
How do you prevent the acetone from running out of the nozzle of the gun? I tried this method and while it worked, there is a steady stream of acetone running out of my nozzle.
If acetone still runs out the nozzle after letting go of the trigger, it means there's something stopping the needle from seating against the aircap. Could be one or more of the following: weak needle spring, needle packing nut too tight, debris in the nozzle, needle wrong size for the nozzle. It's usually the packing nut is too tight. Loosen it until the needle slides freely and retighten by hand . It only needs to be snug so it doesn't leak above the trigger.
@@Mofiac I’m not well versed in paint gun terminology. What do you mean when you refer to the packing nut? The gun is brand new, only used a couple of times so the spring should be good.
@@Mofiac never mind, I’m the dumbo. I’d bought the HVLP gun from harbor freight to experiment with, because it’s $15 as opposed to $80 for the other one. In the process of cleaning both guns, I got the needles mixed up so the 1.4 needle was in the 2.5 gun. Swapped them over, problem solved.
I wouldn't use gelcoat as the finish. I would do all the glass work then use a polyester high build primer dry sanded to 320 grit, then a 2 part acrylic urethane automotive paint. Gelcoat as a final layer will craze over time, not to mention you'd have to wetsand it to 2500 grit then polish. That's a lot of work. You'll find that all the corners will end up being see-through after wetsanding, too.
@@Mofiac ok thanks for your quick answer , but maybe i didnt explain well . Was thinking to gelcoat after fiberglass work only , not as a finish . Was asking for the steps to follow for that , or what product to use ? thanks again !!!
I used a 1.8mm but I recommend a 2.2mm. I use the gun for spraying high gloss additive as well as gelcoats. As such, I use the 1.8 so I don't have to change the needle and aircap when I switch which fluid I'm spraying.
Best size for pva is a mini spraygun with standard aircap, nozzle, and needle. The one I use is the Star HVLP mini with a 0.8mm aircap, nozzle, and needle. You can use a regular size hvlp with a 1.1mm . Spray a light coat, let it shine off, then spray a second coat. If you try 2 coats right away, it will run or fisheye.
Once you have catalyzed your gelcoat, you have 10-12 minutes to get your gun cleaned at room temp; 5-10 minutes longer if your gelcoat is refrigerated and the room is at room temp. Only catalyze a pint at a time so the next pint hasn't sat catalyzed while you spray your first pint. I've used this technique to spray without cleaning the gun for about a half hour before absolutely needing to clean it. I then clean it more thoroughly because the nozzle will have clumps of gelcoat that started forming. If you have a large project you should look into getting a pressure pot spray gun, but to get by on just one very large project, just remember that if you have to stop, clean, continue spraying, you can keep adding gelcoat for hours until the final thickness is reached and your part will come out fine. Hope that helps!
The gelcoat application, if done correctly will have an orange peel finish. This is normal and the subsequent layup over it will bond properly and give good results. If the orange peel finish is on the gelcoat that you sprayed as a final coat on a fiberglass piece, then you'll need to sand it down, wetsand, and polish for a smooth and shiny finish. If so, you'll need to add a wax surfacing agent to the gelcoat before spraying so you get a full cure on the surface. It'll make sanding and polishing much easier. The video shows only how to apply gelcoat to a surface that it will be removed from once the layup over the gelcoat has cured. Hope that helps!
Thanks, the backwash cleans the nozzle really good. I always leave it stored with acetone in it just in case there's a little bit of gelcoat stuck in the nooks and crannies. When I go to use it again, I'll squeeze the trigger to see if there's any color that drains. It always runs clear.
I watched the video where you sprayed the panel. Did you mis calculate the film thickness? There is no way that film is 18 to 20mm thick? 1.8 to 2.0mm possibly? Best regards, Danny.
