For the slightly lightened XF3/XF5 paint for the wheel wells, how do you slightly lighten the mixture; more thinner or addition of another color; white?
@@johnbeto7936 when I say lightened I mean color tone. This can be done with white, but I prefer to use buff because white can wash out and brighten color. Buff lightens the shade but is warmer, which I find helps maintain the hue. This isnt my synthesis, its a concept I stole and am probably explaining poorly, from some forum years ago.
@TheWaggishAmerican, I’m actually building this kit as my first model. I have watched this video a few times and I’ve really enjoyed watching and learning all the different techniques you use throughout the process. I’m not sure if you did, but did you re-scribe any panel lines and/or rivets? I’m also curious about your what your thoughts are regarding painting. Do you think that a beginner should hand paint their model kits to start off with, and when they’re able to -hand paint successfully move on to airbrushing?
Wag, old Buddy. Glad you are back at it. Did you say a dark red base for the undersides pre-shading? Do tell my friend. I have never heard that before, but does make a bit of sense. Years ago one of the post-shade tricks was to use Black and Red Brown Tamiya, for the panel lines. Great build. You are too hard on yourself, just like everyone else. Be well.
@@louismaynard881 ive managed to get it decaled without touching super glue yet but the fit is horrible everywhere and Im expecting to need a lot of it for the gear
Very nice build..............................P-51s do not have wood floors. Also they have aluminum props with the section near the hub was black do to a high altitude boot to help with ram air in to the air intake. Over all very Wag-a-Licious.
I believe you are incorrect. Allison P51s did not have a wood floor- the cockpits with curved floors are metal. P-51D (flat floor) were wooden with an antiskid coating. Glad to hear you enjoyed it otherwise.
@@TheWaggishAmerican As far as the model goes you did a great job. Well Allison never manufactured the P-51 or any other WW II aircraft it was North American, And two I've actually been in the cockpit of a P-51D and they weren't wood.
@@BennyCFDallison refers to models with an allison engine, which the early models had. Restored and especially modernized / flight worthy examples are not great references. Google P51 cockpit wood floor and youll see a lot of discussion around this topic.
The perfect way to start the day with a new P-51 video :) I really like your painting process with this project, it was really fun to see. I've built 2 of these and I know exactly what you mean with the control stick and the landing gear. I hope that Airfix is making this on now with their new grey styrene. It doesn't fuse together quite the same as the blue grey, but it's a lot stronger.
Thats a great point. The feagile details have been done in kits like tamiya or academy without nearly as many issues; a huge contributor is that super soft light grey plastic. I dont think I have seen any of the newer plastic in person yet but I have high hopes.
They captured quite a few, and got a surprising number flying again. Some were captured intact (emergency landing or pilot landed on a germa airfield by mistake), some where cobbled together with parts that got pulled out of field landed aircraft. They might even have gotten a defector one- I know one of the rosarious P-38s came from a defector
I like a lot abou airfix but especially this period they have some quirks. Builds are usually clean and surface detail is great if you like washes, but esp in 72nd scale a lot of kits have parts that are very easy to break in handling or even taking off the sprue.
@@TheWaggishAmerican I used to build a lot of Hasegawa Airliners in the 1980's. The original kits in the series were quite sturdy, but in the 1990's the quality started to drop. I did watch a video of a recent build by a Japanese modeler and he was complaining about the kit. Their 777 kit was a big letdown for me, but after building it, it did do its job. Airfix now, are riding high off the youtube buzz. I'm blue in the face watching spitfire builds, and it all because of the starter sets. You can try a Heller kit, these tend have a bit more chunkier plastic, they need a bit more work, have raised panel lines and stuff, but with some effort can turn out amazing. Or you can and drive yourself crazy by building the Monogram F-4 phantom Snap Tite kit, Its a toy, that you can build as model, if you dare that is....😁😁
It looks weird to my eyes. The cockpit looks like it is 20 years old. The paint looks like it is 2-3 years old. The smoke mark looks like it is 30 years old. It certainly lacks a bit of consistency in terms of the look. I watch many videos and see thoundsand of old planes, they do not look like this. But overall, the build and the paint for base color is great. Just the weathering needs to improve accuracy (no need to add more effects). To be honest, I am sick of seeing weathering overdone videos on youtube, please dont go that path bro 😢
Pristine...love it! Adolf Josef Ferdinand Galland was a German Luftwaffe general! To survive 700 combat missions, the title of "ace" was well deserved! He was quite a character...charasmatic & not fond of the Nazi party! I was born at the closing of the war...it was a time in mankind's history "Never to be forgotten!"
Nah you're all there. Was probably one of geno's vids. Could have been one of WCT's old vids, or maybe one of Chris' own? I used to keep up with Chris' RU-vid channel.until around the incident.
@@TheWaggishAmericanNo, they have small differences in the construction. I would say the eduard one is more complicated, but the cockpit (without the PE parts) from the tamiya one looks better. I would recommend the tamiya one to a beginner and the eduard one to someone with experience like you. Try it you won't regret it i promise!
@@vitoscaletta3886 does your review/rec apply only to the E or to all of eduards 109s? Barring a really interesting scheme I dont think Id do another E anytime soon but you may have sold me on one of their other ones...
@@TheWaggishAmerican I can only speak for the E-Model, but the other ones should be very similar too i guess. I can recommend you the F Version without the bumps (hate them personally but i think i heard they were necessary to store the heavier machine guns back in the days)
@@vitoscaletta3886 Im liking the looks of the g6as or maybe that romanian g4. A lot of the fs are neat options too.... Guess Ill be adding some kits to my next order. Thanks foe the suggestion.
Hi everyone, someone told me years ago that my purplish Rufe was wrong. He told me it was a photographic glitch due to the setting sun in that region. But after reading some of these comments about the primer, and knowing the Japanese had bad paint, I'm more convinced this could happen in real life. To me modeling is an expression of one's own impression of a subject. I teach a LOT of seminars on modeling and I tell everyone if you want to paint a purple and pink Sherman tank with multi colored dots on it, go for it. They are building and should enjoy every minute of it, but do your best with that crazy paint scheme. The pink color is more logical due to the brownish primer they used and when beaten by the sun it would go pink. Really great painting, I paint the same way and have gotten 15 Best Of Shows, over 50 Special Awards, and a LOT of 1st places at New England I.P.M.S. competitions. The 1/24th scale Rufe is in my stash, can you see it on the table at a contest.....Whoooo ! I too have a RU-vid channel at PMCMP, when you get a chance check it out, really enjoy watching someone talented like you doing that painting, keep up the GREAT work. Bill G.
Actually, the gray underside is correct and since the US Army approved 40+ shades of "olive drab" during WW2... I'd say you're good...LOL. Great video, thanks.
Try wetting the surface of the model where you want the streaking to occur with the thinner you use with your oils and then apply the drops. That should help with the streaking. Nice build mate.
18:32, 18:49, 19:06, 19:40, How are you able to pick up your wet decals so smoothly with your brush? And without the decals folding over each other? That's the smoothest technique I have ever seen. Most people use tweezers or finger.
I think its mostly how long I soak. I see a lot of other modelers dunk their whole decal sheet for like 2 seconds then let it sit on the table while they work. I keep constant warm almost hot water, place 4-5 decals in at a time, and let them soak 40-60 seconds before placing them on a towel. By time I actually apply them they have usually already come loose from the paper. If they haven't, i break them free with a fingertip, then can lift with the brush. Brush is just a cheap, very stiff synthetic that I keep in a "flathead" configuration. I do have to slide off paper onto model with fingers or tweezers sometimes, especially with old or aftermarket decals, and it is possible to roll them onto themselves but I usually find that once they are free-sliding on the paper this isn't a huge issue. Larger decals Ill sometimes get a corner or edge up, then work the brush like a knifeblade between the decal and paper to free it- then it lifts fine. In my experience Tamiya, Academy, and Hasegawa are very easy to brush-lift. Airfix can be iffy, eduard is really hard.
Check out RU-vid for PMCMP and watch the episode on decals, not to brag but I have a WAY better application for decals, not to say what you do is wrong, if it works for you then Rock On everyone has their own style of doing whatever, but give my method a try, everyone I have taught it to tells me it is the best way to do decals and is a very logical approach to what some find difficult.
I've just gotten into this great hobby 53 years of age. .Im on my second plane now ! I have this model to build once my skill get better. Only brush painting mine for now . I see you use tape to hold the body and wings together. Will standard painting masking tape work or will it stick to the model. Your build is fantastic.
Standard tan tape is fine, modeling tape like tamiya works too, i use whatever I have strips of on-hand. If you get tape residue on the plastic use iso alcohol to rub it off.
