Is dumping nearly 17 thousand dollars into a car a good idea? Probably, but let's find out! Follow me on my journey into building my 2004 GTO from relatively stock into a street ripper! Restoring a 23 year old Jeep Wrangler Sport from rust to new. And my ultimate goal, to buy a Factory 5 kit car, and build it ground up for my subscribers. Also dive into some marine watercraft upgrades. VLOGs from the road/water sprinkled in there too.
It pretty much controls the travel of the wheel. Adjusting the shock determines how far down it goes, and the adjuster knob in the trunk determines how far up it goes. You can make it harder or softer since it's adjustable. If you aren't racing or tracking the car, you want somewhere in the middle or you will feel every Crack or bump in the road. Let me know if that helps or need more info
@@anthonyplays1835 don't have a link but I have the part number for what I got. ARP 400-1110. Got them from Texas-speed bundled with everything else I got
I don’t know if anybody else has told you this but we appreciate you doing all the tedious work and actually showing everything step by step. Most skip around but I’ve been binge watching quite a few videos as I really need to get mine back together the right way. Thanks!!
That's kind of why I started the channel. There is cool GTO stuff out there, but not alot of in depth stuff. Mostly because the car wasn't a huge production. I am learning a ton about the car and still sorting issues, especially the brake system
@@Billy_Ray_Garage what other issues are you having with your brakes? I don’t think I saw you mention it in any of the videos I’ve seen but did you upgrade to 05/06 brakes ?
@@markitoss this vid, I got the brakes to work I thought. Got front brakes but the back wouldn't get fluid. Got a new master from Australia. The end of my latest video covers what's going on with the master and abs system
I have 2006 that I recently upgraded to CTSV brakes and caught hell getting the pedal back because of air in the ABS module. I had an XTool D7 scanner but the ABS bleed special function didn't work on the GTO. Next, I called Autel specifically asking which scanner would perform ABS bleed for the GTO. They assured me that the MX-808 would do the trick, turns out it didn't work either and I returned it. Folks on the GTO forum mentioned a device called a Tech 2 that the dealers used back in the day. It turns out you can buy a Chinese knock off of the Tech 2 for around $400 on eBay, it worked!
Thanks for the tip! It's just weird cuz my junk yard master cylinder gave me front brakes, but no fluid to rear brakes. It stopped though. Gonna try bleeding one more time then maybe go for the tech 2
@@Billy_Ray_Garage I think the fact that you're not getting fluid to the rear says that fluid is not getting past the ABS module. I wouldn't bother bleeding again, I tried bleeding my car 4 times without success. Tech 2 clone did the trick
@@3212Dre I got a new master from Australia, I'm getting some fluid but there definitely is air in there. Junk yard master wasn't sending fluid to rear at the master. Looking into that tech 2 now. Thanks for that tip!
@@Billy_Ray_Garage Try going in sequence, driver's side rear, driver's side front, passenger side front, passenger side rear. It might not pump on all corners just keep going in sequence. If I recall correctly I got the ABS alarm as well, I think it disables the ABS until you actually start the bleeding procedure.
generally...you need to replace the abs module....underneath the module there is 3 numbers top right side...for example...343..it is circled.....you need to find that module 343 to replace...you cant just throw in any module.....you might have to get that from Australia...might.The modules were made in batches & Not all at once....thats why you need to match up the numbers previously stated(for example)...my module was 078....ohhh...and whilst i remember.....you can get the module from Australia...under the search.... VT...VX...VU... VZ...VY Commodore.....not necessarily under Monaro...or GTO Pontiac.The Year is irrelevant.Mine came from VT Commodore...but...i drive a later model.
@@jason-1015 one has damage repair for a deer strike years ago just FYI. Seen them on ebay for $160ish, hows $100 including shipping? With lamps(no blinker/parking lights)
Make a video on replacing the brake lines and booster if you upgrade it and I was always skeptical about those side markers because one of mine broke and the picture they had on Amazon looked weird and no reviews but glad I got to see it I’m going to buy them
I'm hoping I don't have to go that far with the brakes! But I'll do what needs to be done at this point. Those side lights work pretty good. Not sure if you need to remove the bumper for those. It was off so I did it. I'll have another vid in a day or 2 with those
They do but not in the bearings. They plug above the axles and I believe are just outside of the gear housing. I'd have to look again to be positive on that
The coils on the abs module are ultra sonically welded to the steel tabs, they can break. Common fault. Had same issue with my 04 Holden Commodore VY HSV Clubsport manual sedan here in New Zealand. Was an absolute nightmare. Was safe to drive with module seperated from abs unit while I had it sent to Australia for rebuilding. Just ment I had no abs assist. Just pull the abs fuse to stop the annoying beeps, while it's away getting serviced.
I thought it was the abs module locking out or preventing fluid from the master cylinder getting to the rear. So far it's the master cylinder. Got a new one coming from Australia. Hope it works! I can live without abs. Just want brakes at all 4 wheels 😂
@@Billy_Ray_Garage Yeah, that is a strange one. Hopefully the master cylinder does the trick for you. Of you search the net for Holden Monaro parts you might have a better success in Ozzy and NZ. Just a thought
@@russcole5685 that's what I had to do. Got a junk yard master cylinder, that has the problem currently. With the original one the pedal went right to the floor. Gonna try and get the 2 rebuilt to have spares for life haha
I know chiltons manuals have a ton of info in them and very detailed. Only really used chiltons before. Haynes would probably be something more useful for me but never used them
@@GusP-rv8yn I got mine tuned into the ECU on the initial tune. Was told not to beat on it until it gets dyno'd and tuned. The 38lb was recommended by Texas speed
nice start up, love the sound....try running your battery cables to the inside of your car,running underneath the carpet to your boot,should be easy enough.Also you dont need to run too much coolant and make sure you use demineralised water,not just tap water.I was actually looking at the mishimoto radiator recently...looks the goods,but i dont trust the asian stuff one iota,which you proved to be right.
I'm gonna revisit the battery relocation when the car goes down in the winter. Inside is definitely the way to go with the cables. With the coolant, I flushed it with demineralized water and got like 95% of it out. Used a premixed coolant. And mishimoto radiators are American made. Name just throws it off 😂
I went through 3 of those cheap, crap OEM radiators before I went with the Mishimoto radiator. That was about 10 years ago and I haven't had to touch it since.
Opinions needed! Battery placement in the trunk. Should I do side of the trunk, or in the spare tire tub (kinda where I want to put it) Let me know what you have done.
I found that cold case radiator after I ordered the mishimoto. Figured it would fit perfectly since it was for the car. If it doesn't work out then I'll go with the cold case
Maybe reseating the relays and fuse fixed the electrical issues. Actually sometimes reseating components can fix issues in electronics and I think it can be caused by oxidation on the connectors. However, if it's a intermittent failure. No fun.
save yourself some pain with the valve covers...piss em off...spraypaint the old ones....'black'...to dissipate heat faster.....And buy yourself some new coils....You will be much happier.....Because......you will have to get New coils to suit the New valve covers then you will have to get a New harness to suit the coils which have different plugs,And the New coils to suit the New valve covers Have a different Dwell timing...Then...you will have to re-map the PCM/ECU.....i've just been through it.
I’m back brotha,I got lovells stock height springs and koni shocks.someone locally selling the pedders adjustable springs without the pedders shocks coil overs.can I still use them for spares?
I'm not sure. I know the springs are smaller but you can get to at least stock height. The stock shocks have longer travel, and never compared the the pedders max adjustable travel to the stock length. Probably have to try it out and give us the answer to that
Awesome. Good timing. Just got my GTO Pedders Extreme Xa Set installed last week. Already had to get the fender rolled a little on the driver side, front. But planning on adjust the other wheels and softness as well. Definitely looks like it'll be a process. So really appreciate the video.
@@Billy_Ray_Garage Already had newer low profile wheels from the previous owner. But the auto shop is just a standard shop and really just installed it with very little consideration for other things. So, really just replacing the old suspension and thought it would help with swatting and some rear end noise, which I think is probably caused by the sway bar bushings at this point. I would have gotten more of a stock set up but the parts and labor would be been about the same as what I spent based on what the mechanic said. That said, still working up my confidence to do more of my own maintenance and that repair shop bill is very inspiring. But currently, it's not squatting very much and "no wheel spin." Which is very nice and my rear tires appreciate it. However, the ride is still rough due to the condition of the roads. So, still looking to adjust the height for passenger weight and overall ride comfort. I hear you though. A wide body kit sounds nice, but I hear you on cutting. Can't go back after that. However, can you raise the suspension up to a point that you don't have to cut and it still looks good??
@@whenniceguysretaliate5619 I would have spent thousands sending the car to a shop! It can be intimidating but having a bunch of tools helps. Only thing going back and having a shop do it would have been the subframe connectors. Doing that with no lift is horrible. I'm not sure how high you can go with these springs. If I remember correctly you can get stock height, maybe a little more out of them. With the noise, that can be anything. But if you suspect sway bars. Change the endlinks. Its cheap and easy to do. All the other bushings are an MF'er! Haha
@@Billy_Ray_Garage I hear you. Currently, I try to weigh time, tool cost, difficulty and lift needs as well. But it's also my daily which makes it interesting. Copy that and thanks on the end links. That said, the primary reason I was considering the sway bar is because it seems like the subframe is twisting to a point where the either the differential gears or one of the axles is rubbing during slow turns and reverse. But I have other sounds as well and just thought they might be caused by the same item, but the end links are directly related. And I've already had the Rear Subframe Bushings replaced which helped but didn't resolve everything. So, I appreciate the recommendation as it could solve the issue. Also, this weekend I saw a video of a GTO's suspension which was pretty cool. So, I'm thinking mounting a camera/cell phone under the car and just investigating the sounds more while driving. Because, at this point, I'll have to find it and learn how to replace it myself. Thanks again and Wishing you much success.
Thanks for checking them out! Nice! Which FAST intake you get? I'm having fitment issues with accessories around the intake. Vids will be out soon on that
@@Billy_Ray_Garage the ls6 valley cover works with the low profile intake bolts but the coolant cross over lines are an issue,I used the steel braided line and filed it a bit,and I also had to cut the clip from rear sensor to fit
@@GusP-rv8yn it looked close so I changed the bolts out. Changed to the braided like too and I still have to file it cuz it hits the head slightly. Also power steering tank bracket hits a vacuum line on the intake 😅 may need an OTR intake too
@@Billy_Ray_Garage I’m running xair otr with ls2 maf,I had no issues with the power steering,I’m gonna upgrade to motion raceworks v2 steam kit soon.I have the Fast 92 mm but they did make a model before this
@@GusP-rv8yn awesome! I just gotta play with it a little more. I can move the tank a little more for the k&n CAI. And I want to install the oil cooler before I commit to the OTR because of where it will land
Hey man had a ? For you or your subscribers. I stripped out the passenger side shock bolt, has M 8.8 on bolt head. Any idea where to get these or match them up?
Wretched motor sports has a nut and bolt replacement that's available. If you don't wanna go that route, think you'd have to find a junkyard replacement for OEM set up. Contemporary corvette in Bristol, PA may have that if you call them. (800) 367-8388. Don't know if they ship but give them a call
