Thanks for the BoomBox shoutout (and testing)! For those interested in the dual-motor extruder, I expect to release the design on Printables in early Fall this year.
Definitely keep us updated, I'm in the market for a powerful bowden extruder to better keep up with my The 100 printer. We've seen a lot of great super lightweight direct drive extruders in recent years, but few optimized for bowden setup.
This is 'THE BEST' video on installing Klipper with Fullsail it's associated software that I have been able to find. I have been struggling for days trying to get this all done. Now my SKR Mini E3V3 is talking to my Raspberry Pi 3b! Amazing! Thank you !!! What I would like and I would bet a lot of others would like is -- Now how do we get it to work with our printers? I know a lot of people have the SKR Mini E3 V3 installed on I'm sure a lot of printers, mine is on an Ender 5. My SKR was running Marlin before and I'm trying to figure out how to get Fullsail configured for my printer and how to work the interface. I will be doing a lot of reading will I wait for you next edition. Many many thanks for your straightforward clear explanations and helpful hints.
Thank you for this video! I would love a part 3 going into post setup and in depth/advanced calibration. Just watched both parts like 4 times over. Im new to Klipper and setting up my first ever klipper printer, and it is a custom built printer on top of that. Coming from marlin, i already love so many qualty of life changes when comparing to marlin, just from the compiling and editing the config files alone, its already so much nicer. Cant wait to mess with macros etc. Please do a part 3! i would watch it repeatedly.
Just fount out how cheap 2804AH is where I live, I wonder how much acceleration I can get out of it with this. My voron 0 can't go over 50k acceleration because of how floppy the bed is
Oh, and I almost forgot, which model of Raspberry Pi did you go with, and how well did it perform, would you recommend the same model, or perhaps go with a newer, beefier version? Thanks. :-)
Hi, Hey, I was so happy to find this video series, as this is exactly what I was wanting to do with the makerbot replicator 5th gen I picked up recently. I have most of the parts purchased, and I've started 3D printing the files on github, but I, like another viewer, didn't hear you mention what exactly you did for the power supply?? Did you tap into the original, or just add one? Did it end up being 12 or 24 volt? I know its an old video, and you no longer have the printer, but any help you can provide is much appreciated. I've subscribed to your channel, and I look forward to sifting through all your old videos.. :-)
This is such a BAMF move to have it printing right beside you as you intro it. Bro IDK if I have the chops to build this but by god ima try. SO FREAKING COOL.
Amazing proyect, I plan on build it to upgrade the crappy easythreed K9 of my kid. is there any way to upgrade the bed? or a 2024 upgrade version of this?
What a coincidence! I am currently also developing a corexy 3d printer that uses v-wheels for z similar to your design but without the springs. I am just using using eccentric nuts for tensioning.
im just seeing this now. we bought a replicator thinking it was great... until it wasnt. im going to the mods you did, hopfully fixing the printer. thank you, your a saint.
@@Rolohaun Nice :) I just see the benefit in having the heater being fused to the printbed by making one the sides being exposed and having them be manufactured by a PCB service. Flatness should be within reason and the price very low. BTW I'm gonna min max your build and report back 2 you cheerio :)
Very strange that this command creates a runaway. The documentation states: The verify_heater extruder command in Klipper is used to check whether the extruder (hotend) is heating up at the expected rate during the printing process. It monitors the temperature increase and ensures it meets the desired rate. If the extruder heats too slowly, you’ll receive an error message. You can adjust parameters like heating_gain and check_gain_time in your configuration to fine-tune this behavior12. If you encounter the “Heater extruder not heating at expected rate” error, consider modifying these settings to improve the heating performance3. Keep in mind that this feature helps maintain consistent print quality and prevent issues like warping.
It allows a higher differential between the heater and actual temp, if the thermistor comes loose and the temp is within 20 degrees klipper is allowed to keep powering the heater. It's not good and it's also not needed removing it is recommended so it uses the klipper default which is 5 I believe
whenever i try to connect to mobaxterm i am stopped with an error saying unable to open connection to delta.local, host does not exist. could you please help me with this as i have not been able to figure this out for a couple days now.
possible you forgot to enable SSH when installing the OS or your wifi info is wrong or check your router if you can find the host name maybe it is miss typed. It's easy to start over and recheck everything.
Question to anyone able to help me. I have a few spare(not so amazing) parts, and want to make a cheap version of this for my little brother to see how much he would actually use a 3d printer. Any tips on doing a budget version? Smaller motors? I have spare ender boards, most likely would do marlin and avoid klipper too. Any and all help would be very appreciated. Thabk you in advance!
